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1G 1G "OEM" Thermostat

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danl

20+ Year Contributor
886
274
Apr 8, 2002
Severn, Maryland
Having recently gotten back into the DSM game I was disappointed to discover the OEM thermostat is no longer available. The main reason for running an OEM thermostat is that it had a larger opening than aftermarket thermostats, theoretically allowing more coolant flow when required.

The 1990 FWD in my profile came with a Stant rated at 180F. I ordered a "Super" Stant to replace it and when it arrived, it was a re-boxed Motorad. Looking into this further, they are now the same company. Doing testing in boiling water both these thermostats did not open to what I subjectively would call a sufficient amount. I was also looking for a larger diameter opening, like you would find in an OEM Mitsubishi thermostat. Below is the "Super" Stant, which says Motorad on it.
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I was on the hunt for a thermostat with a large opening, but they all looked like the Stants. I discovered that Tama/NTC is the OEM manufacturer for a lot of Japanese engine manufacturers. Looking at pictures of an OEM mitsubishi thermostat and the Tama CATALOG, you could see some models with similarities with the 1g thermostat (pictured below). The Tama website showed THIS as the replacement for a 1G. It is not the same look as the original, however most important to me was the diameter of the valve in the thermostat. It is 4.4mm larger than the Stant valve opening. Calculating the surface area of both using Pi x R^2 = gives me 2222mm^2 surface area for the Stant opening and 3018mm^2 for Tama, or 35% larger. The Tama valve appears to have a longer stroke when tested in boiling water, but it was difficult to measure accurately. Finally the Tama one shrouds the valve opening less than the Stant, where you can see the stamping at the opening interferes with flow. Will all this make a difference? I have no idea because I don't know what the water pump flow is at different engine speeds. I don't see a downsize of a larger opening though.

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If you are interested in trying a Tama thermostat, the part # is W52-88B for an 88C/191F model and W52-82B for a 82C/180F model. I tried substituting different numbers for the 82 and 88 in the part number but was not able to find lower temp ratings in stock. You can find the 82C model in 80's honda goldwing motorcycles, 80's toyota cressida's, honda preludes, etc. The 88C model was pretty ubiquitous, you can just search for the Tama brand thermostat for a 1G through Napa. I purchased an 82C model from Napa, their part# ATM 1542903, cross referencing to a mid 80's Toyota Cressida.

Of note it appears Tama may be the OEM for some of the engine bay sensors in a 1G. https://www.tama-e.co.jp/omrop2016_180329/top.html
 
Nice detective work. While I don’t see it as often as poor idle issues, overheating is not unknown to DSM cars, especially with power mods. Since water pumps are centrifugal type, then flow in the circuit is proportional to the sum of all the headloss of each restriction ( pipes, valves, bends, etc.). The thermostat could play a part in reducing maximum coolant flow when needed, and thus limit heat exchange, resulting in overheating.

I presume this would be a minor player, but then again, tuning is all about the sum of many often minor changes. It would be handy if the manufacturer actually published testing results for their thermostats when fully open, as I imagine they do these tests at some point. As you pointed out, these brands sell to the car makers, which I’m sure would have a spec to meet by an OEM supplier.

Now finding that data would be a whole nother level of detecting.
 
I replaced my OEM thermostat with a "Heavy Duty" 195F Stant last year and have had no cooling issues, at least ones related to it. The inlet pipe on my OEM radiator broke, but that's due to its being 30 years old and me probably leaning on it sometimes. The oil cooler heater hose blew but also because of age. The water pump stopped pumping but that was because of a snapped alt belt. And so on. But the dash temp gauge always maxes out at just before the midpoint and when everything else is ok the Stant opens up at the right point and lets enough coolant through. I'm guessing that for stock or modestly modded cars it should be fine.
 
I replaced my OEM 180* thermostat today with a Tama and took some comparison pictures just for the record. My OEM one was giving some erratic behavior on my last drive so I think it could be going bad. I'll report back if there's anything significant to note with the Tama after I get some drive time on it.

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Throw the old one in boiling water and see if it opens fully. Of course if the new one makes the car run right, then further investigation is just academic.
 
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