1g looking for advice

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So finally, my car is safe, New rotors, breaks, calipers, e-brake and clutch.


Stage 0 mods all done as well, hacked my air can, boost leak check and went ahead and replaced the vac lines cause most of them had leaks.

So now, it's on to actually spending the real money. Which is where my questions start to arrive. I've been browsing the site's parts section a lot, looking for stuff, but a lot of the things aren't what they seem when I get to the vendor websites. So I've come up with a few questions.



Exausts- What do a lot of the 1g guys use for a catback/turbo back. I'm not persay on a budget, but I dont need the most expensive stuff if you get what I'm saying. I saw some links for 250-350 but when I get there, they aren't what I need. I'm having problems finding something for a FWD as well.


ICP- I've decided to stay side mount, as I dont think I will ever push boost much past 15psi, and dont run the car enough for heatsoak to be a problem. Dejon Tool looks great. So question... Blow through or stock. I mean, I've read a lot of the threads that say it's for the BOV to be atmo and have cool noises. Doesn't seem like a big deal, but then I see a lot of people's profiles and it seem at least half of everyone is running blow through. Does it help with anything in the tuning stage using a MAF compare to running stock. I have a GM MAF already as I have a Parts Trans-Am in my back yard. Just curious.



Alright those are my two big ones.. but here is my FWD question of the day. From your guys experence, what can I set my goals for. I'd love too be able to run 12's all day back and forth. Goal would be to keep up/beat something say a Corvette C6. I know a GSX can run them, but will traction be my biggest beast?

 

[drewvr4]

ok well if you want 12s a front mount intercooler will make that alot easier, just go with one you wont be dissapointed.

now here is something i just figured out last night. i have a 2g thats non-recirculated and with my big turbo my idle would be pig rich and i couldnt figure out why, well the turbo was flowing some much air at idle it was keeping my 1g bov open and since it wasnt recirculating running rich.

so if you end up going big turbo keep that in mind, a GM MAS/Translator is a good idea if your going to upgrade your turbo one day.

 

[marcmsj]

You're going to want to recirculate your blow off valve if you're not running a blow through setup. If you're sticking with the stock turbo, I would suggest using the stock mass air flow sensor for now. You're not really gonna see much of a performance boost on your stock turbo and your money can be better used elsewhere.

The apexi N1 is a very popular catback option. Dejon is a great vendor with a few options so I would definately check them out. Slowboyracing.com would be my first stop personally. They would have everything you need at very resonable prices. Call them up and they will hook you up.

Rewiring your stock fuel pump would also be a good idea at this point if you raised boost at all.

 

[Cs4g63]

I recommend the thermal exhaust. It has a nice deep tone to it.
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3239&

 

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I recommend the thermal exhaust. It has a nice deep tone to it.
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3239&

Thank you. It's nice to have someone that owns a 1g, no offence 2g'ners, help a bit

 

[flyinghighlm]

surprised no one has said LSD yet, so I will. Get a LSD so you can get your power to the ground. I noticed a big difference on my car just by putting on a 3in exhaust from the turbo back and a ported 2g exhaust mani and dejon intake pipe, and all hard IC pipes for a Stock SMIC...I like the dejon alot b/c you can HEAR the turbo spool up alot more now...but thats me,

 

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So all we are saying, thus far is free up airflow? I mean I understand that it is one of, if not the most important thing to be doing to a turbo. I just want to make sure, there isn't something else I should be looking at right away because of having a FWD.

I've been looking at LSD's but will probably wait till the summer is out because I planned on doing a tranny rebuild then anyways.


So what first, exaust, mani, intake? I'm not entirely sure about a FMIC yet, I'm kind of in too saying "What turbo" to the local crx's and civics. Trying to build myself a sleeper. I was checking out some mani's and I know there is a lot of people that just go to a ported 2g for their 1g. But slowboy has a really good deal on the evo3 mani right now. Anyone know if that is direct bolt on?

 

[My91TalonTSi]

So all we are saying, thus far is free up airflow? I mean I understand that it is one of, if not the most important thing to be doing to a turbo. I just want to make sure, there isn't something else I should be looking at right away because of having a FWD.

I've been looking at LSD's but will probably wait till the summer is out because I planned on doing a tranny rebuild then anyways.


So what first, exaust, mani, intake? I'm not entirely sure about a FMIC yet, I'm kind of in too saying "What turbo" to the local crx's and civics. Trying to build myself a sleeper. I was checking out some mani's and I know there is a lot of people that just go to a ported 2g for their 1g. But slowboy has a really good deal on the evo3 mani right now. Anyone know if that is direct bolt on?

The EVO 3 is a direct bolt on.

As for what's first, a boost gauge. Then I would do a boost controller, 2g or EVO 3 exhaust mani, intake, and turbo back exhaust. Someone reccomended a fuel pump rewire, and I would also, though I didn't have any problems with the above mods at 15psi without a rewire.

If you really want to keep up with or beat C6 vettes you are going to need a bigger turbo, a big intercooler, a lot of fuel, and some way of tuning.

 

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I really appreciate the help guys. I'm finally to the point with my reading of the forums, I know a lot of the stuff, I just have to double check to make sure.

I already have a MBC and Boost gauge, Just haven't installed them yet as I was working on the saftey concerns I have.


Question about the fuel pump rewire... Is stock enough, or should i just upgrade. It's really not all that expensive of a part.


I just went ahead and ordered the evo3 Mani. Cant beat the price.


Anyone know anything about the aftermarket SMIC's in the parts catalog. If I must run FMIC I must, but there is just something very appeasing to me about nobody knowing I'm running turbo by just looking at me. Spooling is a different situation though

 

[THE REAL DEAL]

if you're staying with the stock turbo, just get a decent muffler (not an ebay special) and have an exhaust shop make the piping. get a 2.5" downpipe and go 3" after that. you get a full 3" on that 14b, you're probably gonna see some creep. and make sure they make as little bends as possible.

and you're gonna wanna get a FMIC.... i guarantee it

 

[jw_55_55]

Considering im FWD also im liking this thread!....but in your case your definitly going to want to upgrade to FMIC. I was debating it for awhile and decided to try it out... and as for performance after after the install i feel i have better turbo response than before with the stock smic. Plus if you ever want to up grade to a bigger turbo than you wont have to worry about it! Also you should try to get a 2g TB elbow....a lot more free flowing than our 1g TB elbows!... You said you were looking for the sleeper look so if you think the FMIC is going to ruin that just paint it black so it doesnt stick out!

As for your fuel options i would say get a walbro 255 and dont think you would be disappointed...the only problem with this is that you would have to a new fpr considering you will be over running your stock pretty badly! Ends up being not to cheap but when you get new bigger injectors you'll notice a huge gain! Your other option would be to get the walbro 190...and some people say you still need a new FPR and others say you dont!! I still stay go big right away for later upgrades...which im sure you will want to do! thats my .02

 

[dsm-onster]

Adonizing is not painting. Do not paint. It will KILL efficiency. Adonizing will INCRESE efficiency quite a bit but is EXPENSIVE. Done yelling .

Stock SMIC did great w/ a small 16G and 15 psi. . . Traction was long gone . The 14B spools even quicker. And is just as efficient as the small 16g at 15 psi considering a stock longblock.

Definately get the walbro 255 hp if you get a 190 and rewire it you will overrun your fpr. You may even overrun your fpr w/ an unwired 190. So a fpr upgrade goes hand in hand w/ talking the time to drop the fuel and swap fuel pums. All that being said a rewired stock fuel pump has delivered enough fuel for 15 psi and the small 16g. The 450s flow enough fuel for just over what the fuel pump canhandle. So don't feel your oats and succomb to the boost bug.

As well, your stock 1G maf w/ the lower honeycomb removed will overrun shortly above 15 psi or so (again assuming stock longblock). Overrunning a maf is not like overruning a fpr. The maf will actually skip hertz counts and read a lower volumeairflow than wha is really going into the engine. This spikes up air/fuel ratios during WOT pulls and welding temperatures in the combustion chamber are eminent.

At the end of all this, I'll say: don't think of psi goals. Think of horsepower goals. It's not all about psi. if you want 250 whp then everything you already have on the car can get you there. Get a logger, a manual boost controller, and an aftermarket boost gage to monitor mishappenings. STOP when you see knock not 15 psi. Unless you get to around 15 psi. You SHOULD w/ a stock fuel pump rewire, hacked 1g maf, a good clean stock intercooler w/ a complete air duct for it, and a good working fuel system.

P.S. have you replaced your fuel filter?

 

[Laysher91]

Check out rnrracing.com for FWD exhaust. I have their 2.5" O2 eliminator turbo back and I love it. Good performance, sound, and fitment. You may have some lead time because they told me it takes longer to make FWD exhaust because they hardly every do it and usually need someone to bring in a FWD to test fit it.

 

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dsmonester-


Thank you for the explination. I really like when someone explains it so I understand... not just "this is good or better then this"


I have to wait till payday DSM FOR LIFE! but then I'll be getting a MAFT along with a new UICP as I already have the GM because of a spare for my trans am. Hand and hand with that goes a new intake.


Could someone explain that whole o2 eliminator for me. I've seen 2 turbo backs, same thing, but one eliminates 02 housing I guess. I dont understand how that works, or pros/cons

 

[fourreGsixty3]

You may want to check out VRS exhaust's. They come in aluminum, and SS for AWD& FWD 1Gs with o2 eliminator's, or normal bolt up to the o2 housing. As fa as how the o2 elim. DP's work its just that they make the DP angle/flange to bolt straight to the turbo( looks cleaner without the o2, and eliminates on more place for a leak). This is what was done on my buddy's 2G with a 60-1, and this is what Im doing with my 60-1 soon as the fund's roll on it.
Have you done all the preventative maintenance on the car?
Traction will be your worst enemy when making decent power with a FWD, so slick's will be a good investment, Ive seen people drop 5/10th's off their et's just going from street's to slick's. But with slick's you will have to be good at launching, because you WILL break drivetrain parts if you dont launch correctly, because the track is hot, and slick grab very well. You will want to invest in an AFPR if you are using a Wally 255, you can pick these up for about $250 new, or if you are pacient you can pick up a used one in good condition for around a $100 ( I seen one in great condition on here a few weeks ago for $75). Which ever FP you go with rewiring it is a very good idea so you can get more voltage to it due to larger diameter wires being used. I would definately say upgrade to a 2G MAF, or GM MAF since you have that cause it is not fun when going WOT, and your car started breaking up. As far as IC I would say clean your SMIC so all the oil is out of the inside, and the surface is free of obstruction's or check out the FMIC with short route piping on the addy I provided below. Dejon Tool makes great IC piping, also my buddy Tim makes a great UICP set-up for 1Gs...http://www.punishment-racing.com/intercoolerpiping.html...plus you CAN'T beat his warrenty...LIFE TIME to the original buyer...

 

[Dream On]

dsmonester-


Thank you for the explination. I really like when someone explains it so I understand... not just "this is good or better then this"


I have to wait till payday DSM FOR LIFE! but then I'll be getting a MAFT along with a new UICP as I already have the GM because of a spare for my trans am. Hand and hand with that goes a new intake.


Could someone explain that whole o2 eliminator for me. I've seen 2 turbo backs, same thing, but one eliminates 02 housing I guess. I dont understand how that works, or pros/cons

It's exactly as you describe. I'd say a good ported o2 housing would flow just as well as an o2 eliminator. I'd rather have a non-o2 eliminator because if you ever need to drop the exhaust, you'll have a hell of a time getting to the o2 bolts. The downpipe ones are easy to reach though.

 

[SnowBird]

For a down pipe you really only need a 2.5, but for there on youll want 3". There are some cheap ass downpipes/cat backs on ebay you can get away with $300 shipped for a turboback if you buy it in 2 pieces, some people will argue, but exhaust is exhaust. Youll get creep like a S.O.B unless you port the hell outta the 02 or get an external dump. Im AWD, but a lot of my buddies are FWD and traction will be a fight till 3rd gear, I dont really know what to tell you for traction, look to spend some money I guess.

 

[dsm-onster]

I'll have to disagree w/ this one. More gains are made where bigger pipe is used earlier in the exhaust (closer to the turbo). Since the work done on the turbine wheel is a function of pressure differentials accross the blades, and volume and temperature determines pressure. See The Ideal Gas Law: increase in volume and/or decrease in temp lowes pressure (which we want in the exhaust system. The converse raises pressure of course. A 3" down pipe (large volume) w/ a 2.5" catback will net significantly better spool time then the other way around. This of course has been verified hundreds of times. Run shorter exhaust to get the lower ambient temperature involved in reducing back pressure.

 

[Laysher91]

The O2 eliminator "combines" the O2 housing and downpipe so its one piece. This is supposed to optimize flow between the turbo and cat by eliminating the restrictive(and often ported) O2 housing to downpipe connection. An O2 eliminator will outflow other O2 housing/downpipe setups and this works great for mitsu turbos but you do have to unbolt the exhaust all the way to the cat if you are taking the turbo off.