Here's a guide to help you make your 90-94 Eagle Talon, Mitsubishi Eclipse, or Plymouth Laser perform in Time Trials, Wheel to Wheel racing, and open track events. Make sure you put a plan together for the class you're planning to compete in and read all of the rules before you start modding your car. There may be mods that will bump you out of the class you originally wanted to compete in. The guide below will focus on specific upgrades that apply mostly to road racing, with more of an emphasis on handling.
A few things to keep in mind:
SUSPENSION
Competition Tires/Wider Wheels
If you're driving your car to the track you'll want a second set of track wheels and tires so you can go with R-compounds. The one problem with 1G cars is that you're limited in wheel choices and sizes. Those who want the wheels to tuck in the stock fender will be limited mostly to 8.5" wheels and 225-235mm width tires. The determining factor on wheel/tire width will end up being the offset (backspacing) of the wheel. But if you're okay with rolling your fenders and/or going with fender flares you can go wider. We have found some 17x9" Team Dynamics Race wheels that fit our cars perfectly with a 27mm offset, which is the ideal offset for our suspension geometry in a 17x9" wheel, which should come very close to tucking with the negative camber you'll be running. The Toyo RA1's are a very popular tire choice with DSMers these days for their good performance and durability. But other good choices would be the Kumho V700 and/or VictoRacer V700, the BFGoodrich g-Force R1, and of course the Hoosier R6 - all of which can be found at Tirerack.
Something to keep in mind: most big brake kits require at least 17" wheels and a certain amount of spoke clearance to accept the width of the caliper. Make sure you take this into account when shopping for wheels. The best order of operation would be to choose the brake kit you want and get the measurements needed for the wheels. Then find wheels that will fit. A few wheels that are lightweight and not outrageously expensive would be the Enkei RPF1, the Kosei K1, and the Kosei K1 TS. The more expensive choices would include the Gram Lights 57C and the SSR Type C, etc. You can find all of these wheels at Tirerack.
Swaybars and Strut Braces
A larger swaybar in the rear will help reduce roll and understeer. On AWD cars the stock front swaybar is sufficient for man, but cab be upgraded as well for serious racers. We've found that the Galant VR-4, which uses the same chassis, has some of the biggest swaybars available from Whiteline. On a FWD car you can upgrade both depending on your needs. Strut bars will help reduce body flex by bracing the shock towers and will tighten up the car's chassis, but the overall effect they have is not nearly as big as swaybars. If you plan on installing a roll bar or roll cage, the rear strut bar is almost pointless.
Coil-over Suspension
Once the standard struts and lowering springs are no longer cutting it you'll want to step up to a coilover setup. There are two choices - spring and perch kits or true full coilovers. The latter will afford you additional adjustment options to help fine-tune the suspension at the track and will offer the best performance if you go with quality manufacturers. You'll also want some stiffer spring rates. If you absolutely cannot afford coilovers you can get by with some good adjustable shocks for a total budget build (we highly recommend Koni but KYB AGX are cheaper and will work for some people - be aware that the KYB strut/shock was not designed to be lowered and have been known to wear prematurely due to the lower ride height and increased spring rate) and some lowering springs like the Eibach Prokits. Just don't go with any springs that lower the car more than 1.5" or you'll actually be hurting performance. You probably won't be very competitive without coilovers but at least you'll have some fun on the track.
Many DSMers tend to think that ANY coilover is automatically better than a shock/perch set up like Koni/Ground Control simply becase it's a true coilover. This isn't true. In fact, the Koni setup will perform better and will be more compliant than just about any 'true' coilover available for the 1g costing less than $2500. Don't get sucked into the thinking that a cheap coilover will be better because it has 30 or 100 adjustment points. They are cheap for a reason, and they are not designed for high performance applications and/or racing. They're a glorified solution for lowering your car, and that's about it.
As of August 2012, Muellerized has come up with the absolute best solution for 1g coilovers - it involves adapting a set of Ohlins coilovers that are made for an Evo to fit the 1g. Yes, you heard right, Ohlins! Of course, these certainly aren't cheap, but if you want one of the best coilovers on the market for any platform - including super cars - it will cost a little bit more than a set of cheap KYB shocks. Contact Muellerized for a quote.
Camber Adjustment
The front camber can be adjusted by using camber bolts on the lower strut mount location at the spindle. This should give you enough adjustment with the car slightly lowered. If you have coilovers by now you likely already have camber plates, which will help even more. Some might need both solutions. If you are going with a less expensive option like Koni/Ground Control, you'll want to take a look at the RRE Camber Plates, specifically, the ones that add caster to further improve handling and give you more adjustment points depending on the track.
For the rear, you'll need to get a pair of rear upper control arms to adjust camber from companies like Volk Metal Craft.
Most road racers will start out with about -2 to -2.5 negative camber up front and -1 or -1.5 degrees of camber in the rear, and will adjust the car's balance from there.
Polyurethane/Solid Bushings
Replace all those flexible rubber bushings throughout the suspension with poly replacements. You can usually find most bushings in a kit. If you're going full track you might consider going with poly motor mounts and maybe even body bushings. It will vibrate more but everything will be solid. While you're replacing bushings you'll also want to address the "rear active toe-control link". 1G DSM rear suspensions feature an active toe-control link which increases rear toe-in under cornering and acceleration. This tends to slow the cars steering response and induce a steady understeer condition promoting "safer" vehicle handling. By replacing the stock rubber bushings with a steel insert, rear toe is held as set during alignment. The result is better turn-in and improved cornering power. You can purchase a "rear toe eliminator" kit from JayRacing. If you're going to compete you might even look into full solid bushings throughout the entire suspension.
Big Brake Upgrade
If you're suffering from brake fade and aggressive pads aren't doing the job it might be time to consider a big brake kit. Most kits will eliminate fade, reduce stopping distances, and give you a great deal more confidence at high track speeds. Most big brake kits require 17" wheels and a certain wheel offset to clear the width of the caliper. Make sure you take this into account when shopping for wheels. Most big brake kits will come with steel braided lines and good pads, but if they don't make sure you pick some up. And don't forget the high-temp brake fluid as well. We recommend going with a 13x1.10" or 13x1.25" vented and slotted rotor. Stay away from cross drilled rotors for track use.
The most reliable name in the braking world for DSMers has been TCE Performance Products. They're the only company that has consistently made big brake kits available for our cars with several custom options. We highly recommend them for any Big Brake kit. You'll get a kit that performs as well as any kit on the market at a better price. They use Wilwood calipers exclusively and will work with you to get you the best kit for your needs.
POWER/ENGINE UPGRADES
Monitor:
Common modern turbo choices:
When going with a FMIC, focus on:
Track builds often include:
DRIVETRAIN UPGRADES
WEIGHT REDUCTION
Common removals:
Lexan and Speedglass
Lexan windows are used on dedicated race builds. The Speedglass option is more expensive but it's a lot more scratch resistant and it's molded like the factory glass to look more stock. This can get pretty expensive when you consider changing out all, or most of your glass but it can also save you the most weight above the door handles, which will help drop the center of gravity on the car. Flex-a-lite actually made a rear hatch window for the 1G DSM that is supposed to be more durable than Lexan and is molded like the factory windows - you'll have to contact them to see if they can still make it.
Aluminum Driveshaft
Dropping the weight on the driveshaft will help tremendously, even if it's just a few pounds. An aluminum driveshaft can drop a good 10-15 lbs from the stocker. The only product to consider for driveshaft upgrades is DSS.
SAFETY
Racing Seats/Harnesses
For more safety and driving control, look into some good supportive racing seats and harnesses to keep you firmly planted in the proper driving position.
Helmet and Gloves
If you're doing any road course or autocross racing a helmet is always required. For open track days a helmet with a SA1990 rating will usually be okay but you'll want to check with the organization putting on the event to be sure. We recommend getting a SA2000 or SA2005 rated helmet for better protection - for racing the higher rating will probably be required. You can find some pretty good deals on helmets on eBay. You'll also want to consider getting some good gloves and possibly a racing suit. Make sure everything you buy meets the standards for the racing series you'll be competing in.
Other Helpful Links
A few things to keep in mind:
- Set a goal/budget before buying any parts. No plan = more money later.
- Be realistic with those goals and plans.
- There is no "best" part when it comes to modding.
- Do your research before you buy parts - make sure the parts you buy will work together well.
- Work within your budget.
SUSPENSION
Competition Tires/Wider Wheels
If you're driving your car to the track you'll want a second set of track wheels and tires so you can go with R-compounds. The one problem with 1G cars is that you're limited in wheel choices and sizes. Those who want the wheels to tuck in the stock fender will be limited mostly to 8.5" wheels and 225-235mm width tires. The determining factor on wheel/tire width will end up being the offset (backspacing) of the wheel. But if you're okay with rolling your fenders and/or going with fender flares you can go wider. We have found some 17x9" Team Dynamics Race wheels that fit our cars perfectly with a 27mm offset, which is the ideal offset for our suspension geometry in a 17x9" wheel, which should come very close to tucking with the negative camber you'll be running. The Toyo RA1's are a very popular tire choice with DSMers these days for their good performance and durability. But other good choices would be the Kumho V700 and/or VictoRacer V700, the BFGoodrich g-Force R1, and of course the Hoosier R6 - all of which can be found at Tirerack.
Something to keep in mind: most big brake kits require at least 17" wheels and a certain amount of spoke clearance to accept the width of the caliper. Make sure you take this into account when shopping for wheels. The best order of operation would be to choose the brake kit you want and get the measurements needed for the wheels. Then find wheels that will fit. A few wheels that are lightweight and not outrageously expensive would be the Enkei RPF1, the Kosei K1, and the Kosei K1 TS. The more expensive choices would include the Gram Lights 57C and the SSR Type C, etc. You can find all of these wheels at Tirerack.
Swaybars and Strut Braces
A larger swaybar in the rear will help reduce roll and understeer. On AWD cars the stock front swaybar is sufficient for man, but cab be upgraded as well for serious racers. We've found that the Galant VR-4, which uses the same chassis, has some of the biggest swaybars available from Whiteline. On a FWD car you can upgrade both depending on your needs. Strut bars will help reduce body flex by bracing the shock towers and will tighten up the car's chassis, but the overall effect they have is not nearly as big as swaybars. If you plan on installing a roll bar or roll cage, the rear strut bar is almost pointless.
Coil-over Suspension
Once the standard struts and lowering springs are no longer cutting it you'll want to step up to a coilover setup. There are two choices - spring and perch kits or true full coilovers. The latter will afford you additional adjustment options to help fine-tune the suspension at the track and will offer the best performance if you go with quality manufacturers. You'll also want some stiffer spring rates. If you absolutely cannot afford coilovers you can get by with some good adjustable shocks for a total budget build (we highly recommend Koni but KYB AGX are cheaper and will work for some people - be aware that the KYB strut/shock was not designed to be lowered and have been known to wear prematurely due to the lower ride height and increased spring rate) and some lowering springs like the Eibach Prokits. Just don't go with any springs that lower the car more than 1.5" or you'll actually be hurting performance. You probably won't be very competitive without coilovers but at least you'll have some fun on the track.
Many DSMers tend to think that ANY coilover is automatically better than a shock/perch set up like Koni/Ground Control simply becase it's a true coilover. This isn't true. In fact, the Koni setup will perform better and will be more compliant than just about any 'true' coilover available for the 1g costing less than $2500. Don't get sucked into the thinking that a cheap coilover will be better because it has 30 or 100 adjustment points. They are cheap for a reason, and they are not designed for high performance applications and/or racing. They're a glorified solution for lowering your car, and that's about it.
As of August 2012, Muellerized has come up with the absolute best solution for 1g coilovers - it involves adapting a set of Ohlins coilovers that are made for an Evo to fit the 1g. Yes, you heard right, Ohlins! Of course, these certainly aren't cheap, but if you want one of the best coilovers on the market for any platform - including super cars - it will cost a little bit more than a set of cheap KYB shocks. Contact Muellerized for a quote.
Camber Adjustment
The front camber can be adjusted by using camber bolts on the lower strut mount location at the spindle. This should give you enough adjustment with the car slightly lowered. If you have coilovers by now you likely already have camber plates, which will help even more. Some might need both solutions. If you are going with a less expensive option like Koni/Ground Control, you'll want to take a look at the RRE Camber Plates, specifically, the ones that add caster to further improve handling and give you more adjustment points depending on the track.
For the rear, you'll need to get a pair of rear upper control arms to adjust camber from companies like Volk Metal Craft.
Most road racers will start out with about -2 to -2.5 negative camber up front and -1 or -1.5 degrees of camber in the rear, and will adjust the car's balance from there.
Polyurethane/Solid Bushings
Replace all those flexible rubber bushings throughout the suspension with poly replacements. You can usually find most bushings in a kit. If you're going full track you might consider going with poly motor mounts and maybe even body bushings. It will vibrate more but everything will be solid. While you're replacing bushings you'll also want to address the "rear active toe-control link". 1G DSM rear suspensions feature an active toe-control link which increases rear toe-in under cornering and acceleration. This tends to slow the cars steering response and induce a steady understeer condition promoting "safer" vehicle handling. By replacing the stock rubber bushings with a steel insert, rear toe is held as set during alignment. The result is better turn-in and improved cornering power. You can purchase a "rear toe eliminator" kit from JayRacing. If you're going to compete you might even look into full solid bushings throughout the entire suspension.
Big Brake Upgrade
If you're suffering from brake fade and aggressive pads aren't doing the job it might be time to consider a big brake kit. Most kits will eliminate fade, reduce stopping distances, and give you a great deal more confidence at high track speeds. Most big brake kits require 17" wheels and a certain wheel offset to clear the width of the caliper. Make sure you take this into account when shopping for wheels. Most big brake kits will come with steel braided lines and good pads, but if they don't make sure you pick some up. And don't forget the high-temp brake fluid as well. We recommend going with a 13x1.10" or 13x1.25" vented and slotted rotor. Stay away from cross drilled rotors for track use.
The most reliable name in the braking world for DSMers has been TCE Performance Products. They're the only company that has consistently made big brake kits available for our cars with several custom options. We highly recommend them for any Big Brake kit. You'll get a kit that performs as well as any kit on the market at a better price. They use Wilwood calipers exclusively and will work with you to get you the best kit for your needs.
POWER/ENGINE UPGRADES
Cooling System
Common modern cooling upgrades:- Koyo HH series aluminum radiator
- Mishimoto X-Line aluminum radiator
- Proper shrouded slim fans (not generic zip-tied setups)
- Functional hood venting and proper ducting into the radiator
- Water temp gauge
- Evo 8/9 external oil filter housing
- Setrab oil cooler
- Thermostatic sandwich plate
- Oil temp gauge
Engine Management
Most common tuning solution:- ECMlink
- Haltech
- AEM Infinity
- Link ECU
Monitor:
- AFR
- Oil temp
- Oil pressure
- Coolant temp
- Boost
- Knock
Turbo Selection
Road racing favors quick and early response over peak power. You don't want anything huge. Go smaller if you want to be competitive in autocross, larger for road course builds.Common modern turbo choices:
- MHI Evo 16G, 20G, and 68HTA variants
- Holset HX35
- Forced Performance Green/Black/Zero
- Garrett GTX28, GTX30, GTX35
Intercooler
Front-mount intercoolers are widely used but also are known to cause higher temps under the hood.When going with a FMIC, focus on:
- Efficient core
- Minimal pressure drop
- Proper ducting
Intake & Exhaust
Intake pipes:- FP cast intake pipe
- Old discontinued DejonTool pipes can be found used
- Custom aluminum setups
- 3" turbo-back is standard
- V-band systems are becoming more common
- Properly ported OEM 2g or Evo 3 exhaust manifold still performs well
Fuel System
Common modifications:- Walbro 255 or AEM 340 pump
- Rewire kit
- Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (Fuelab, Aeromotive)
- Larger injectors (size will depend on goals)
- E85 or meth injection kits to run higher boost
Engine Internals
Building the motor isn't mandatory, but if you are going to build it, keep the application in mind.Track builds often include:
- Forged pistons
- Forged rods
- ARP head studs
- MLS head gasket
- Balance shaft delete
DRIVETRAIN UPGRADES
Clutch
Popular options:- ACT
- Competition Clutch
- South Bend
- Quarter Master (twin-disc builds)
Differential
FWD:- Quaife LSD
- Wavetrac
- KAAZ
- Center diff upgrades
- Welded center diff (track-only builds)
- Rear LSD (3kgt or Evo swaps, with stronger rear axles are common)
Transmission
Upgrades commonly seen:- Double synchro rebuilds
- Solid shifter bushings
- Short shifter kits
WEIGHT REDUCTION
Common removals:
- Rear seats
- Sound deadening
- Spare tire
- Interior trim
- Braille
- Antigravity
Lexan and Speedglass
Lexan windows are used on dedicated race builds. The Speedglass option is more expensive but it's a lot more scratch resistant and it's molded like the factory glass to look more stock. This can get pretty expensive when you consider changing out all, or most of your glass but it can also save you the most weight above the door handles, which will help drop the center of gravity on the car. Flex-a-lite actually made a rear hatch window for the 1G DSM that is supposed to be more durable than Lexan and is molded like the factory windows - you'll have to contact them to see if they can still make it.
Aluminum Driveshaft
Dropping the weight on the driveshaft will help tremendously, even if it's just a few pounds. An aluminum driveshaft can drop a good 10-15 lbs from the stocker. The only product to consider for driveshaft upgrades is DSS.
SAFETY
Racing Seats/Harnesses
For more safety and driving control, look into some good supportive racing seats and harnesses to keep you firmly planted in the proper driving position.
Roll Bar / Cage
HPDE and open track day applications:- 4 or 6-point roll bar is suggested
- Full cage built to NASA or SCCA specs
Fire Safety
Increasingly common:- Fire extinguisher
- On-board fire suppression system
Helmet and Gloves
If you're doing any road course or autocross racing a helmet is always required. For open track days a helmet with a SA1990 rating will usually be okay but you'll want to check with the organization putting on the event to be sure. We recommend getting a SA2000 or SA2005 rated helmet for better protection - for racing the higher rating will probably be required. You can find some pretty good deals on helmets on eBay. You'll also want to consider getting some good gloves and possibly a racing suit. Make sure everything you buy meets the standards for the racing series you'll be competing in.
Other Helpful Links
- Road Racing/Track Day Basics and Misconceptions
- Suspension FAQ's
- DSM Frequently Answered Questions
- 1G Autocross Tech
- 1G Autocross - Street Modified
- Find a Track in Your Area
- DSM Handling Tech Forum
- DSM Road Racing Forum
**Disclaimer -- This information was gathered from various member experiences. Your experiences may differ.
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