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Resolved 1G Cranks but won't start

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Gracer

Proven Member
33
8
Nov 30, 2023
Plymouth, Wisconsin
Car is 92 6-bolt AWD. 1G block/head, 2G MAF/hard pipe w/pigtail. 14b/7cm hot side, full three inch. Side mount. Boost set to 14psi. Stock ECU non-EPROM.

Car was becoming more difficult to start when cold, but fine when warm and fuel pressure still in rail. Just replaced CTS as engine code came on. Car has also recently thrown codes for TPS and BAP (MAF).

The other day car died while going down a hill and the fuel light was just starting to flicker on. Put in two gallons of premium and fired right up. The next day car engine would crank but not start. Wally 255 was getting loud and whiny so replaced it with brand new rewired Wally 255. No dice. I have an AFPR and the pressure was set to 60psi on 450's. Pressure gauge reads 60psi up on first start and then falls to 10-20psi and won't move when trying to turn engine over.

Checked coils, plugs, starter, battery, alternator gtg

Replaced fuel pump, CTS, battery, clutch safety switch.

Set timing to 8° with 93 pump gas

Checked fuel pump relays, gtg

Thinking it's a fuel delivery issue.
Could it be fuel pressure regulator or something else? ECU? Dirty/clogged injectors?

I don't currently have a tuning device.

Car drove great for last month/1000 miles

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
 
Solution
FIXED!!! It was the fuel pump wiring going into the relay for the pump rewire. I stripped some old wiring off clean and this time used crimp connectors rather than the electrical tape I had on there the past 12 years. LOL
Thanks again guys!!!!
Hacked MAF = Uncalibrated airflow.

There is not a problem with opening up the canister other than you wind up sucking it hot air right off the radiator. The fix for that is to build an airbox for it to live in that draws from outside.
That makes sense Steve, trying to keep the hot air away. I had some sort of makeshift shield where it covered the top half of the air cleaner but the bottom had air going to it from underneath coming up from the fog light area I think or maybe even kind of by the side mount intercooler... I know my build is very plain and old school when I get more money I will upgrade to DSM link, larger injectors and and Eprom ECU.
I already have a 20 G turbo that can go with my future setup.
 
I mean hacked like someone removed some of the honeycomb from the inside and cut the canister off with exposed K&N filter.

I just saw now you said UNHACKED 1G
They make those LOL jk.
I'd have to go look for when I guess...
Show us a pic. Removing the lower honeycomb and that's it, is not a hacked maf. Neither is cutting the can. Hacked usually means cutting off the entire lower bypass section. Exposed k and n is not a problem.

That makes sense Steve, trying to keep the hot air away. I had some sort of makeshift shield where it covered the top half of the air cleaner but the bottom had air going to it from underneath coming up from the fog light area I think or maybe even kind of by the side mount intercooler... I know my build is very plain and old school when I get more money I will upgrade to DSM link, larger injectors and and Eprom ECU.
I already have a 20 G turbo that can go with my future setup.
Keep in mind hot air is NOT uncalibrated air. It just means it isn't optimal for performance. Maf will calculate hot air just as well as cold air.
 
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