For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
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. When starting it cranks sounds like its going to start up and then dies.
NewI have logs of it cranking. Shall I post? It started off as a cranks and starts then it putters out. Now it cranks and putters out immidiately
Well yeah. Did you at least look at the log to see if you could figure it out yourself?
It is normal. If you crank for a long period of time without firing up then some unburned fuel goes into the crankcase.
Sounds like spark plug cables are not connected to right cylinders/coils or wrong valve timing (skipped timing belt).
The car ran fine. Just needed a tune. It sat for a couple days and I went to start it and it started and bogged after about a minute of running.It is normal. If you crank for a long period of time without firing up then some unburned fuel goes into the crankcase.
That's a sigh of relief
Sounds like spark plug cables are not connected to right cylinders/coils or wrong valve timing (skipped timing belt).
I did I ran it down to my TPS not getting voltage at the ECU. Fixed that problem. Still not running :[
5V to power wire. Signal wire is variable from .6-4.8.
Did you check the battery? Seems the voltage too low. Maybe just a dead battery. Since the car was running fine then should check from general issues.
I didn't even think about it being a battery issue. The car cranks and starts under the power from the battery. But wont stay idled. Ive never heard of that causing a non start issue. You recommend a new battery? That just seems weird to me. Im still learning to diagnose, so I trust your judgement.
I just said it at first because the voltage is low before cranking and the voltage is still low after cranking, not rising. if the battery is not completely dead, just charging is fine. But if completely dead then get a new one. Anyway the car always needs a healthy battery.
So I have been having similar problems and man testing all this stuff is a pain. So it seems you have gotten a bit further than me but you might be missing a key part so when you get the trouble code p0123 and p0122 they also throw a code in the PCm it is dtc U1120. If you just clear the surface DTCs and haven't cleared the U1120 it will re-throw the DTC p0123 and/ p0122 which wants to put you in limp mode and protect the ecm pcm. I just did the balance shaft and cam/crank timing and all of a sudden my car doesn't start, cranks fine so timing good but I had it during for 2 months while I went over everything involved it was kinda pricey when your hustling to make money. But the intake had been off cause I was doing thermostat, well it poured here in San Diego so it was real damp out only thing I can think of was some corrosion accumulates on the maf sensor wire. So instead of buying a new throttle body I'm gonna clean some stuff double check that I can't find more about this stack of DTCs oh yeah I just found that the U1120 stores fault with pcm when you have had catalytic converter problems for a considerable length of time (mine has been removed after they had gotten plugged) I meant to make that O2 sensor emulator but just never did it's easy to maybe I will post on making flip flop circuit to emulate the reading from sensors so you can pass smog and increase customization from mods.anyways check that Dtc U1120 isn't logged in the saved logs
