1G center diff / awd issues

[jake1337]

Here's my situation - 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

Welded center diff / built trans has a evo III 1st and 4th gear. This is what the previous owner told me, no receipts. Car def drove like the center diff was welded so I don't doubt that part.

The car suddenly doesn't drive like the center diff is welded anymore.

With all the wheels off the ground the front wheels spin by hand easily. The rear wheels do not move by hand. With the car started in first gear all wheels spin but the front tires you can stop by hand.

I appreciate your opinions! Thanks for reading.

 

[BlackDSMthingy]

If I had to guess I would say that the person that welded the T-Case together either didn't do a solid enough weld (I'm not saying he sucks, this is a hard mod to do reliably for anyone), or possibly it just failed from repeated street use. Welded T-cases are meant for racing. They're not meant for the street. And yes to all the nay-sayers, I have heard of so and so using them on the street for years with no issues too. But for the majority, these are made for brute force in a straight line. The minute you take a sharp maneuver in a parking lot you're putting exponentially larger torsional force against those welds. They will and do snap. The issue is that once they do, typically you're looking at a new unit. You can look inside to be sure. You'll have to when you diagnose the problem. If you can stuff it with new insides and be on your way then cool. But either way you fix it, if it's being driven on the street I would go with a stock T-Case or one with heavy duty insides versus a welded one. Less issues in the long run...

 

[jake1337]

If I had to guess I would say that the person that welded the T-Case together either didn't do a solid enough weld (I'm not saying he sucks, this is a hard mod to do reliably for anyone), or possibly it just failed from repeated street use. Welded T-cases are meant for racing. They're not meant for the street. And yes to all the nay-sayers, I have heard of so and so using them on the street for years with no issues too. But for the majority, these are made for brute force in a straight line. The minute you take a sharp maneuver in a parking lot you're putting exponentially larger torsional force against those welds. They will and do snap. The issue is that once they do, typically you're looking at a new unit. You can look inside to be sure. You'll have to when you diagnose the problem. If you can stuff it with new insides and be on your way then cool. But either way you fix it, if it's being driven on the street I would go with a stock T-Case or one with heavy duty insides versus a welded one. Less issues in the long run...

What do you mean by welded t-case? The center differential is inside the transmission. Maybe i'm missing something? Also i've never heard of welding the t-case.

 

[BlackDSMthingy]

My bad. I meant differential. I was thinking of another post I replied to. You are correct. I do not think I've ever seen a welded T-case before either... The rest of what I said was accurate though. The only units that are meant for street use and will stand up to the torque on the track as well would be either a Quaiffe of an Auburn or something similar, but they allow some slippage side to side to accomodate the sharp angles. But.... $$$$$

 

[jake1337]

My bad. I meant differential. I was thinking of another post I replied to. You are correct. I do not think I've ever seen a welded T-case before either... The rest of what I said was accurate though. The only units that are meant for street use and will stand up to the torque on the track as well would be either a Quaiffe of an Auburn or something similar, but they allow some slippage side to side to accomodate the sharp angles. But.... $$$$$

Haha its all good. I have a friend that has a trans for 300 bucks so I might just swap in that and replace the clutch and be done with it.

 

[BlackDSMthingy]

Save the old one. You never know when a nice diff will come out of the woodwork....