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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,893
2,742
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Do you mean the Map sensor? I know if the map sensors isn't appropriately sized you can have issues with accuracy and resolution, but I've never heard of that with a Bcs
No, the bcs. Not all setups, taking into account turbo, back pressure, bcs can respond well enough to control boost tightly. For example on mine, you’d go up like 1-2 duty cycle % and the boost would just go through the roof. The ecu really doesn’t like that when controlling boost in closed loop.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
No, the bcs. Not all setups, taking into account turbo, back pressure, bcs can respond well enough to control boost tightly. For example on mine, you’d go up like 1-2 duty cycle % and the boost would just go through the roof. The ecu really doesn’t like that when controlling boost in closed loop.
Interesting I had no clue. Thanks for the heads up
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Got around to working on my DBW conversion harness.
Lesson learned, find out what kind of connectors you are pinning so you know how to install them.

I grabbed the AEM pinning kit that came with the sensor and tried to get it installed not realizing that it is a pull to seat connector.. and I crimped the pins on it before pulling it through the connector.. i had to pull the pins off and order a new connector kit for it to try and re-do it. I also did something similar with my Evo pedal connector where I referenced the wrong wiring diagram and had to re-do it.
The new AEM connector came in, and it was a different type of connector.. This one is a push to seat but I couldn't get it to seat. I ended up messing up one of the connectors and now I had to order a THIRD connector for it.
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After all that nonsense i was able to finally get the harness done. Since my ECU was modified, It sends the 12v power directly to the throttle body that it requires which is nice. Now I don't have to wire in a separate Relay (this is what Link ECU told me themselves)

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I used some splice connectors to wire everything to where it needs to go temporarily for testing purposes just to make sure that my wiring was right. After some troubleshooting i was able to get all the AN inputs and outputs set right. My throttle body calibrates and the ECU moves it like it should but the Accelerator pedal doesn't work right. When trying to calibrate it, the ECU only ever sees like 1.38v and then doesnt calibrate right. I Tested both 5v wires, and they both get 5v. I tested Sensor ground continuity and it also had good continuity. When I tested the APS Main output to the ECU, it showed the same 1.38v when the pedal was at a resting state. This tells me that the pedal sensor might actually be bad. Ive got an actual Evo X pedal on the way now. Hopefully this is the issue.
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Ive gone ahead and decided to ditch the Hobbs switch in favor of using one of my outputs from Link to activate the 2nd fuel pump relay, therefor activating the 2nd pump. To me this seems like a better way to control the fuel pump w/additional safeties as well.

I worked on the engine bay a little bit also. Basically just routing the bundles where they need to go and get a basic length. I also was able to get the MAF harness relocated further up on the wiring harness closer to the firewall

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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
After 3 separate orders and 3 different connectors i was finally able to get my MAP sensor pinned correctly.
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I posted on the Link ECU forums about my Throttle pedal issue and as it turns out, i was reading the pinout backwards and wired it back wards.
i flipped all the pins around so that:
pin 1 to pin 6
pin 2 to pin 5
Etc and the throttle pedal actually works now! I was able to calibrate it in link and it seemed to work great.

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I disconnected all the wires for the DBW and loomed them all up with Tessa Tape and DAMN i think this looks pretty nice!
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Mounted up my Evo Pedal and Bracket and its looking nice, and it feels pretty good too.
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Ordered up some Grommets for the firewall to run run the Throttle Body harness out, and the Hydraulic brake lines through, basically right behind the ECU. Those should be here friday.

Was able to shorten and repin my CAS sensor connector as well. Mine was pretty rotted. Im surprised it even still connected to the CAS.
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Snagged a really clean Thermostat housing from McKenzie Lange so ill get the sensors swapped out with that as well and get it put on the head.
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Ordered some 4 Gauge wire for the battery relocation, some wire and 2 relays for the fans. Ill actually be repurposing 2 of my ISC outputs to control fans 1 and 2.

Thats really all for now, Im working on getting my Can Guage ordered to get that configured and then im going to work on getting my wires in the bay finished up and reloomed. I still also need to find a nice dual fuse box like the one Vegas mentioned, but they seem to be on backorder for an undisclosed amount of time. There might be a site i can order one from, so if it try to order and it comes ill link it here. I also still need to decide how i want to run the battery cables from the back to the front through the firewall drilling and using grommets, or if it should use a bulkhead type of setup.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I initially bought that connector,

but now that I have a new, smaller wiring harness I'm just going to run my battery cable through the oem wiring harness hole with it.
Ultimately i would like to run them through the OEM Firewall grommet but last time i tried to run just the power wire for the fuel pump relay through it (just a 10ga) i spent nearly 2 hours trying to fish it through and just gave up. i couldnt figure it out.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I received the Fuse holder that i was looking for. Everything looks great on it and its sealed.
You can get them here: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46096/Eaton-s-Bussmann-Series-Power-Fuse-Module-60A-/

just be aware that you pay for a small fee for not meeting their minimum order, and shipping is expensive. This holder ended up being around $50 shipped to my door. You also do have to buy new low profile JCase fuses for it as well which you can get at pretty much any auto store.
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I was able to finally get the grommets in the firewall for the staging brake, and throttle body, and then was able to find a spot on just the opposite side of the shifter cables that go through the firewall for the power and ground from the battery. I was unable to even get fishing tape through the oem firewall grommet since the main harness splits right after the firewall in a cavity and i just couldnt get anything through it.
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As of right now, power and ground wires are ran through the firewall. Ive also ordered a power distribution module for both ground and power here:
so that i can run a clean ground and power for the starter as well as have a solid 12v source for fans and anything else that might need it.

I was also able to get the battery box mocked up in the back for the battery relocation. I got all the holes drilled and grommets installed in them for the power, and vent tubes.
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Wired up the fans with some beefy relays, and inline fuses. I will likely use a 25amp fuse as the fans only pull up to 20. Issue is that i used regular Weatherpack connectors for the connection to the fans which from what i read only support UP TO 20amps.. so ill need to upgrade those to some Metripack- 280 series which supports 30amps. Ill also have to revisit my fuel pump connectors then as well as they are the same connectors i believe.. but thats really interesting because i think thats the same connectors that Walbro/TI-Automotive uses for their connectors that come with their pumps.
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Ive also gone ahead and ordered up my CANLambda, CAN Extensions, CAN Wiring adapter and splitters setup from Jimmy Oaks.. I was able to Snag Vegas' old CAN Guage setup as well. So all that should be here tomorrow actually. Orderd some big battery cable terminal crimpers for the battery cables, as well as some terminal ends too so that i can make my own crimped ends for the battery wires.

All in all, its coming together quickly now! More wiring and what not. But steady as she goes!
 
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
After thinking about the connectors on both the fuel pump and the fans, i decided to re-order some higher AMP rated weather pack connectors. Some rated to 35 amps so that i wouldn't have any issues. Got both the fuel pump connector and both fan connectors re-terminated and redone.

I finished running the wires from the front of the car to the back for the battery relocation. they are hidden pretty well, i'd say. They go under the trim and then under the carpet on the passenger side, between the seat and the center console and then through the firewall. The 2nd fuel pump trigger wire for the ECU also Follows similar splitting off behind the Driver side seat behind the console all the way to the rear where the fuel pump relays are.
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I tried to test fit the fuel pump cover and found a few issues. Where the Factory hole is for wiring is right on top of the feed line for the fuel system and I couldn't get the connectors over there to connect or even for the cover to sit flush. I drilled a new hole further towards the back of the car on the cover and threw another grommet in there and now there's plenty of space for the connectors to sit. I test fitted the cover again and it still actually hits the feed line. I "massaged" the cover with a hammer in that area and now it seems to fit alright, No amazing but i'm not sure what else can be done. I also was able to finally get my Fuel Pump wires ran and terminated too.
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I've gone ahead and placed my order for my GTX3584RS. I have a buddy that actually owns and diesel performance shop and works with a vender that Makes turbos. I decided to give him a chance and ordered one from him with the T51r Mod. His shop is called Niko_Performance Solutions (https://niko-performancesolutions.com)
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I also ordered a full 3.5" stainless exhaust kit from Summit.
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All my CAN stuff showed up and i got to work getting it where it needed to go. I gotta say i am Extremely excited to give CAN a go. Especially with the CANGauge. Being able to clean up the interior and not have to run as many independent gauges. I plan on mounting all my gauges in a little triple pod holder right above the radio. I wired some Deutsch connectors to the CAN Gauge end so that it can get plugged into the the Canbus system off the ECU. The CAN lambda requires a 120ohm resistor so I learned one of the cleanest ways to do that, but there's quite a bit of planning in order to do it this way. I messed up a few times and had to use new pins and some new Deutsch seals too. I ordered some spare full connector kits off amazon so i have some spares
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I also plan on using on of my Digital Inputs on the expansion connector for the ECU to activate rolling anti-lag as well. I am trying to find a spot to put this that makes sense. it seems to be either drill a new hole in the center console or relocate the cigarette lighter and put the button in there. although i might tackle this at a later time.

I have the lines mostly ran for the staging brake, i just need to figure out which ports I'm going to use on the proportioning valve for this. I know i have a picture of it somewhere, I just haven't dug into it too far.
I forgot also, that I've ordered a replacement FMIC Core as well! I was really hoping to find a used ETS or Buschurs core but someone shows me Speed Factory racing and so i went ahead with them and ordered up one of their dual backdoor intercoolers, 1000hp capable. They have a 10% off coupon if you sign up for texts or whatever so i did that and i paid just over $600 shipped! It looks like a really nice piece, with the plates angled towards the core to help with airflow and its pretty large.

That's pretty much all for now

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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
360
268
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Looks good man im really following the build. What is the can set up.
Hey Vic! Welcome back.

Right now my CAN setup is just the CanGauge and the CANLambda. I might want to add more sensors in later but I need to research on how to do that exactly for something like IAT, Ethenol content, oil pressure/oil temp.
 
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