Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[Vegas Smith]

Do you mean the Map sensor? I know if the map sensors isn't appropriately sized you can have issues with accuracy and resolution, but I've never heard of that with a Bcs

No, the bcs. Not all setups, taking into account turbo, back pressure, bcs can respond well enough to control boost tightly. For example on mine, you’d go up like 1-2 duty cycle % and the boost would just go through the roof. The ecu really doesn’t like that when controlling boost in closed loop.

 

[Anfurnyy]

No, the bcs. Not all setups, taking into account turbo, back pressure, bcs can respond well enough to control boost tightly. For example on mine, you’d go up like 1-2 duty cycle % and the boost would just go through the roof. The ecu really doesn’t like that when controlling boost in closed loop.

Interesting I had no clue. Thanks for the heads up

 

[Anfurnyy]

Got around to working on my DBW conversion harness.
Lesson learned, find out what kind of connectors you are pinning so you know how to install them.

I grabbed the AEM pinning kit that came with the sensor and tried to get it installed not realizing that it is a pull to seat connector.. and I crimped the pins on it before pulling it through the connector.. i had to pull the pins off and order a new connector kit for it to try and re-do it. I also did something similar with my Evo pedal connector where I referenced the wrong wiring diagram and had to re-do it.
The new AEM connector came in, and it was a different type of connector.. This one is a push to seat but I couldn't get it to seat. I ended up messing up one of the connectors and now I had to order a THIRD connector for it.


After all that nonsense i was able to finally get the harness done. Since my ECU was modified, It sends the 12v power directly to the throttle body that it requires which is nice. Now I don't have to wire in a separate Relay (this is what Link ECU told me themselves)



I used some splice connectors to wire everything to where it needs to go temporarily for testing purposes just to make sure that my wiring was right. After some troubleshooting i was able to get all the AN inputs and outputs set right. My throttle body calibrates and the ECU moves it like it should but the Accelerator pedal doesn't work right. When trying to calibrate it, the ECU only ever sees like 1.38v and then doesnt calibrate right. I Tested both 5v wires, and they both get 5v. I tested Sensor ground continuity and it also had good continuity. When I tested the APS Main output to the ECU, it showed the same 1.38v when the pedal was at a resting state. This tells me that the pedal sensor might actually be bad. Ive got an actual Evo X pedal on the way now. Hopefully this is the issue.




Ive gone ahead and decided to ditch the Hobbs switch in favor of using one of my outputs from Link to activate the 2nd fuel pump relay, therefor activating the 2nd pump. To me this seems like a better way to control the fuel pump w/additional safeties as well.

I worked on the engine bay a little bit also. Basically just routing the bundles where they need to go and get a basic length. I also was able to get the MAF harness relocated further up on the wiring harness closer to the firewall

 

[Anfurnyy]

After 3 separate orders and 3 different connectors i was finally able to get my MAP sensor pinned correctly.

I posted on the Link ECU forums about my Throttle pedal issue and as it turns out, i was reading the pinout backwards and wired it back wards.
i flipped all the pins around so that:
pin 1 to pin 6
pin 2 to pin 5
Etc and the throttle pedal actually works now! I was able to calibrate it in link and it seemed to work great.



I disconnected all the wires for the DBW and loomed them all up with Tessa Tape and DAMN i think this looks pretty nice!

Mounted up my Evo Pedal and Bracket and its looking nice, and it feels pretty good too.


Ordered up some Grommets for the firewall to run run the Throttle Body harness out, and the Hydraulic brake lines through, basically right behind the ECU. Those should be here friday.

Was able to shorten and repin my CAS sensor connector as well. Mine was pretty rotted. Im surprised it even still connected to the CAS.


Snagged a really clean Thermostat housing from McKenzie Lange so ill get the sensors swapped out with that as well and get it put on the head.


Ordered some 4 Gauge wire for the battery relocation, some wire and 2 relays for the fans. Ill actually be repurposing 2 of my ISC outputs to control fans 1 and 2.

Thats really all for now, Im working on getting my Can Guage ordered to get that configured and then im going to work on getting my wires in the bay finished up and reloomed. I still also need to find a nice dual fuse box like the one Vegas mentioned, but they seem to be on backorder for an undisclosed amount of time. There might be a site i can order one from, so if it try to order and it comes ill link it here. I also still need to decide how i want to run the battery cables from the back to the front through the firewall drilling and using grommets, or if it should use a bulkhead type of setup.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I initially bought that connector,

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-46313-Stinger-PG34-Single.html

but now that I have a new, smaller wiring harness I'm just going to run my battery cable through the oem wiring harness hole with it.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I initially bought that connector,

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-46313-Stinger-PG34-Single.html

but now that I have a new, smaller wiring harness I'm just going to run my battery cable through the oem wiring harness hole with it.

Ultimately i would like to run them through the OEM Firewall grommet but last time i tried to run just the power wire for the fuel pump relay through it (just a 10ga) i spent nearly 2 hours trying to fish it through and just gave up. i couldnt figure it out.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I received the Fuse holder that i was looking for. Everything looks great on it and its sealed.
You can get them here: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46096/Eaton-s-Bussmann-Series-Power-Fuse-Module-60A-/

just be aware that you pay for a small fee for not meeting their minimum order, and shipping is expensive. This holder ended up being around $50 shipped to my door. You also do have to buy new low profile JCase fuses for it as well which you can get at pretty much any auto store.


I was able to finally get the grommets in the firewall for the staging brake, and throttle body, and then was able to find a spot on just the opposite side of the shifter cables that go through the firewall for the power and ground from the battery. I was unable to even get fishing tape through the oem firewall grommet since the main harness splits right after the firewall in a cavity and i just couldnt get anything through it.


As of right now, power and ground wires are ran through the firewall. Ive also ordered a power distribution module for both ground and power here:

https://a.co/d/1l2BbOl

so that i can run a clean ground and power for the starter as well as have a solid 12v source for fans and anything else that might need it.

I was also able to get the battery box mocked up in the back for the battery relocation. I got all the holes drilled and grommets installed in them for the power, and vent tubes.


Wired up the fans with some beefy relays, and inline fuses. I will likely use a 25amp fuse as the fans only pull up to 20. Issue is that i used regular Weatherpack connectors for the connection to the fans which from what i read only support UP TO 20amps.. so ill need to upgrade those to some Metripack- 280 series which supports 30amps. Ill also have to revisit my fuel pump connectors then as well as they are the same connectors i believe.. but thats really interesting because i think thats the same connectors that Walbro/TI-Automotive uses for their connectors that come with their pumps.


Ive also gone ahead and ordered up my CANLambda, CAN Extensions, CAN Wiring adapter and splitters setup from Jimmy Oaks.. I was able to Snag Vegas' old CAN Guage setup as well. So all that should be here tomorrow actually. Orderd some big battery cable terminal crimpers for the battery cables, as well as some terminal ends too so that i can make my own crimped ends for the battery wires.

All in all, its coming together quickly now! More wiring and what not. But steady as she goes!

 

[Anfurnyy]

After thinking about the connectors on both the fuel pump and the fans, i decided to re-order some higher AMP rated weather pack connectors. Some rated to 35 amps so that i wouldn't have any issues. Got both the fuel pump connector and both fan connectors re-terminated and redone.

I finished running the wires from the front of the car to the back for the battery relocation. they are hidden pretty well, i'd say. They go under the trim and then under the carpet on the passenger side, between the seat and the center console and then through the firewall. The 2nd fuel pump trigger wire for the ECU also Follows similar splitting off behind the Driver side seat behind the console all the way to the rear where the fuel pump relays are.



I tried to test fit the fuel pump cover and found a few issues. Where the Factory hole is for wiring is right on top of the feed line for the fuel system and I couldn't get the connectors over there to connect or even for the cover to sit flush. I drilled a new hole further towards the back of the car on the cover and threw another grommet in there and now there's plenty of space for the connectors to sit. I test fitted the cover again and it still actually hits the feed line. I "massaged" the cover with a hammer in that area and now it seems to fit alright, No amazing but i'm not sure what else can be done. I also was able to finally get my Fuel Pump wires ran and terminated too.


I've gone ahead and placed my order for my GTX3584RS. I have a buddy that actually owns and diesel performance shop and works with a vender that Makes turbos. I decided to give him a chance and ordered one from him with the T51r Mod. His shop is called Niko_Performance Solutions (https://niko-performancesolutions.com)


I also ordered a full 3.5" stainless exhaust kit from Summit.


All my CAN stuff showed up and i got to work getting it where it needed to go. I gotta say i am Extremely excited to give CAN a go. Especially with the CANGauge. Being able to clean up the interior and not have to run as many independent gauges. I plan on mounting all my gauges in a little triple pod holder right above the radio. I wired some Deutsch connectors to the CAN Gauge end so that it can get plugged into the the Canbus system off the ECU. The CAN lambda requires a 120ohm resistor so I learned one of the cleanest ways to do that, but there's quite a bit of planning in order to do it this way. I messed up a few times and had to use new pins and some new Deutsch seals too. I ordered some spare full connector kits off amazon so i have some spares


I also plan on using on of my Digital Inputs on the expansion connector for the ECU to activate rolling anti-lag as well. I am trying to find a spot to put this that makes sense. it seems to be either drill a new hole in the center console or relocate the cigarette lighter and put the button in there. although i might tackle this at a later time.

I have the lines mostly ran for the staging brake, i just need to figure out which ports I'm going to use on the proportioning valve for this. I know i have a picture of it somewhere, I just haven't dug into it too far.
I forgot also, that I've ordered a replacement FMIC Core as well! I was really hoping to find a used ETS or Buschurs core but someone shows me Speed Factory racing and so i went ahead with them and ordered up one of their dual backdoor intercoolers, 1000hp capable. They have a 10% off coupon if you sign up for texts or whatever so i did that and i paid just over $600 shipped! It looks like a really nice piece, with the plates angled towards the core to help with airflow and its pretty large.

That's pretty much all for now

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good man im really following the build. What is the can set up.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Looks good man im really following the build. What is the can set up.

Hey Vic! Welcome back.

Right now my CAN setup is just the CanGauge and the CANLambda. I might want to add more sensors in later but I need to research on how to do that exactly for something like IAT, Ethenol content, oil pressure/oil temp.

 

[Anfurnyy]

So ive been doing a lot of wiring, and racking my brain on getting all the inputs correct in Link and the physical wiring which has been a challenge. There's pins that are missing from the Link ecu because they aren't used but they are on the Harness side. For instance like the EGR pin that i was using for my Fuel pressure.

I was able to order a few new things yet again.
JMF Front bumper support
2x OEM Radiator bushings (lower)
Coolant temp pigtail
Antilag Racing Radiator brackets
Momentary On Switch (for Antilag)
Bosch wideband Knock sensor w/pigtail


Im super stoked on the radiator brackets as these will replace the huge eyesore of the old ones. These are pretty nice Billet Aluminum, however they do fit kind of weird but they seem to work well.


My JMF Front bumper support came in Bent. Annoying but since its aluminum it was a pretty easy fix.



My New intercooler came in, it seems like a great unit! Bar and Plate core. HOWEVER, the inlets and outlets aren't wide enough to fit around the a/c condenser. So my options are:
Return it and buy a new Intercooler that fits
Modify this one
Remove a/c condenser
Im leaning towards just having this one modified. Like to have the in/out Pointed or extended outwards.

It seems that this car is still living up to the name of this Build Thread.. "Trials and Tribulations" Always seems to be something!


Momentary switch for Antilag from amazon. I think im going to put this on the center console in between the Cigarette lighter and the shifter. Ill use this to arm Anitlag and then activate it with like 90+% TPS.

This is actually just a cheap switch from Ace, i have better lower profile one getting delivered today. This shows the position where it will get mounted though.

As far as wiring goes, just been knocking out one thing at a time trying to think ahead to see where things need to go. I shortened the stock o2 sensor harness, the thermostat housing sensor harness's.



I finished wiring up my dual fuel pumps and their relays. I think this looks pretty good. Not professional by any means but as an enthusiast it looks good. I might end up shortening from the pump connector to the relay since theres about 3 extra feet per relay. I also finished re-wiring the injectors. I had to shorten some, and extend some others. I rewired them so that they they all come from under the heater core lines like everything else and run between the runners and branch off as they go from Cyl 4 - Cyl 1. They are basically hidden and think they look pretty damn good! Ive also finished fully final wiring the DBW Harness's to their inputs and outputs on the ECU. Since they are hardwired to the ecu harness and not through the connector, the ecu wont be able to be removed fully without cutting these, which i really dont like. I might have to revisit this later and add some connectors to make that possible.


I need to get my ECU Switched relay setup for my CANbus as well. i forgot to run a 12v power wire for this when I ran the other wires from the back.
I think i'll just use the 5v output from the ECU to Turn on the relay.
I'll also be running a 5v bus bar somewhere in the console to power other gauges i might want to set up.

Manifold is about 2 months out still, turbo should be here next week!

 

[Vegas Smith]

You won’t need stock o2 when running a CAN wideband. Why is the egr pin gone? Removed due to dbw or something?

 

[Anfurnyy]

You won’t need stock o2 when running a CAN wideband. Why is the egr pin gone? Removed due to dbw or something?

Right, I just figured that IF I ever sold the car someone might want it for some stupid reason. That and I'm just too lazy to try and delete all those wires from the harness honestly.

No egr pin because New Zealand doesn't have emissions from what I'm told so their ECU didn't come with one.

 

[AWD-Tony]

You still have ac?

 

[Anfurnyy]

You still have ac?

Kind of. I have most of it. I don't have a compressor, and I'm apparently missing a line as well. But I'm hoping to keep it.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Kind of. I have most of it. I don't have a compressor, and I'm apparently missing a line as well. But I'm hoping to keep it.

It took me a while to get everything. I was able to get everything installed with a few modifications to the lines off the condenser to work with buschur fmic. It’s an old one though.

 

[Anfurnyy]

It took me a while to get everything. I was able to get everything installed with a few modifications to the lines off the condenser to work with buschur fmic. It’s an old one though.

I swear I kept all my lines when I removed the power steering and what not. I'm missing the entire driver side line.
I'm sure it won't be too hard to find it Off a partout or something. I might even have it laying around hidden somewhere.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Right, I just figured that IF I ever sold the car someone might want it for some stupid reason. That and I'm just too lazy to try and delete all those wires from the harness honestly.

No egr pin because New Zealand doesn't have emissions from what I'm told so their ECU didn't come with one.

Why do you think there isn't an egr pin? Both the g4x and g4+ list the egr as available. Mine has one?

 

[DreamChaser7]

So ive been doing a lot of wiring, and racking my brain on getting all the inputs correct in Link and the physical wiring which has been a challenge. There's pins that are missing from the Link ecu because they aren't used but they are on the Harness side. For instance like the EGR pin that i was using for my Fuel pressure.

I was able to order a few new things yet again.
JMF Front bumper support
2x OEM Radiator bushings (lower)
Coolant temp pigtail
Antilag Racing Radiator brackets
Momentary On Switch (for Antilag)
Bosch wideband Knock sensor w/pigtail
View attachment 672264View attachment 672263View attachment 672262View attachment 672261

Im super stoked on the radiator brackets as these will replace the huge eyesore of the old ones. These are pretty nice Billet Aluminum, however they do fit kind of weird but they seem to work well.
View attachment 672274View attachment 672275

My JMF Front bumper support came in Bent. Annoying but since its aluminum it was a pretty easy fix.

View attachment 672268View attachment 672267

My New intercooler came in, it seems like a great unit! Bar and Plate core. HOWEVER, the inlets and outlets aren't wide enough to fit around the a/c condenser. So my options are:
Return it and buy a new Intercooler that fits
Modify this one
Remove a/c condenser
Im leaning towards just having this one modified. Like to have the in/out Pointed or extended outwards.

It seems that this car is still living up to the name of this Build Thread.. "Trials and Tribulations" Always seems to be something!
View attachment 672277View attachment 672269View attachment 672270View attachment 672278View attachment 672279

Momentary switch for Antilag from amazon. I think im going to put this on the center console in between the Cigarette lighter and the shifter. Ill use this to arm Anitlag and then activate it with like 90+% TPS.

View attachment 672260 This is actually just a cheap switch from Ace, i have better lower profile one getting delivered today. This shows the position where it will get mounted though.

As far as wiring goes, just been knocking out one thing at a time trying to think ahead to see where things need to go. I shortened the stock o2 sensor harness, the thermostat housing sensor harness's.

View attachment 672258View attachment 672259

I finished wiring up my dual fuel pumps and their relays. I think this looks pretty good. Not professional by any means but as an enthusiast it looks good. I might end up shortening from the pump connector to the relay since theres about 3 extra feet per relay. I also finished re-wiring the injectors. I had to shorten some, and extend some others. I rewired them so that they they all come from under the heater core lines like everything else and run between the runners and branch off as they go from Cyl 4 - Cyl 1. They are basically hidden and think they look pretty damn good! Ive also finished fully final wiring the DBW Harness's to their inputs and outputs on the ECU. Since they are hardwired to the ecu harness and not through the connector, the ecu wont be able to be removed fully without cutting these, which i really dont like. I might have to revisit this later and add some connectors to make that possible.
View attachment 672271View attachment 672272View attachment 672273View attachment 672276View attachment 672266View attachment 672265View attachment 672257

I need to get my ECU Switched relay setup for my CANbus as well. i forgot to run a 12v power wire for this when I ran the other wires from the back.
I think i'll just use the 5v output from the ECU to Turn on the relay.
I'll also be running a 5v bus bar somewhere in the console to power other gauges i might want to set up.

Manifold is about 2 months out still, turbo should be here next week!

Wiring is the one thing that is intimidating me quite a bit albeit still being a long ways away before I need to do it. Just wish I could wrap my head around what approach to take when the time comes. Like is it best to modify existing factory harness, build a new one from scratch, pay Ohm for a new one? I’m guessing from the pics you are modifying a factory harness? And then what I’ll need where? I’m sure a lot of that will get answered the further into the build I get. Would like to have a plan on the wiring side going forward though and stick to it.
Looks like you’re making some good progress!

 

[Dericsh]

Wiring is the one thing that is intimidating me quite a bit albeit still being a long ways away before I need to do it. Just wish I could wrap my head around what approach to take when the time comes. Like is it best to modify existing factory harness, build a new one from scratch, pay Ohm for a new one? I’m guessing from the pics you are modifying a factory harness? And then what I’ll need where? I’m sure a lot of that will get answered the further into the build I get. Would like to have a plan on the wiring side going forward though and stick to it.
Looks like you’re making some good progress!

Have you watched jafro make the Hyundai harness?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Why do you think there isn't an egr pin? Both the g4x and g4+ list the egr as available. Mine has one?

According to the pinout and pic functions, there's no EGR input only an output for the solenoid.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Wiring is the one thing that is intimidating me quite a bit albeit still being a long ways away before I need to do it. Just wish I could wrap my head around what approach to take when the time comes. Like is it best to modify existing factory harness, build a new one from scratch, pay Ohm for a new one? I’m guessing from the pics you are modifying a factory harness? And then what I’ll need where? I’m sure a lot of that will get answered the further into the build I get. Would like to have a plan on the wiring side going forward though and stick to it.
Looks like you’re making some good progress!

Wiring is still intimidating but I kid you not, once you kind of just dive in and you take it one step at a time it makes sense and it's fairly easy. That's my advice for anything you might have trouble commiting too is just go for it and you'll learn along the way. Research, research some more and until you find it and if you don't then ask.

If I needed to hack up this harness anymore I might just end up making my own. I could look into having one made but since there's quite a few custom things on this car it might make it kind of difficult to tell them exactly where stuff needs to go, at least in my opinion.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Have you watched jafro make the Hyundai harness?

Yes I have and others. I have like 3 books on automotive wiring at different levels too. I've read two of them front to back, highlighted, taken notes, etc. . My brain just goes numb and doesn't retain much a week later. I'm more of a hands on learner. Once I do something myself I'll never forget it.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Wiring is still intimidating but I kid you not, once you kind of just dive in and you take it one step at a time it makes sense and it's fairly easy. That's my advice for anything you might have trouble commiting too is just go for it and you'll learn along the way. Research, research some more and until you find it and if you don't then ask.

If I needed to hack up this harness anymore I might just end up making my own. I could look into having one made but since there's quite a few custom things on this car it might make it kind of difficult to tell them exactly where stuff needs to go, at least in my opinion.

From everything I've read so far I dread having gremlins I can't figure out after it's built due to old wiring. One reason I've been contemplating new harnesses. After what will be probably close to 30 years waiting to drive this thing again when it's done I don't want those type of issues obviously.
Ohm has what seems like a good harness to me but what do I know. Tons of options to select most of which I'm not sure how to answer yet. https://www.ohm-racing.com/product/...rness-quick-disconnect-and-raychem-protection
I do really like the idea of seperating the wiring at the firewall with a bulkhead connector though.

 

[Vegas Smith]

According to the pinout and pic functions, there's no EGR input only an output for the solenoid.
View attachment 672304View attachment 672305

Gotcha. You can use the egr for fan control if you'd like. The expansion harness has a 5v out that should give you all the 5v power you need. If you need a 12v relay board then something like this would be perfect:

Big Dog 3 Distribution Block

leashelectronics.com