1g bov is leaking at 5psi

[mhuffman]

I pressure tested my intake today b/c the car was running strange... and my 1g uncrushed bov was leaking at 5psi and got worse as i went higher.

Anyone used the forge motorsport BOV? It's a direct bolt on. Are there any other good recirculating 1g bov's that bolt right up?

 

[a_flint87]

Well first off, how much money are you planning on spending? And what kind of performance goals are you setting. A simple 1g BOV is very effective, unless you really plan on turning up the boost. You can find 1g BOVs at http://www.dsmparts.com for a decent price, otherwise there lots of other BOVs on the site, some of which require purchasing an adapter to recirculate. Check it out! Should help you out!

 

[ROOKIE1]

Are you sure it is not the hose or the gasket ? I would clean up the mating surfaces , get a new gasket and try that . Is your uicp stock or aftermarket . Alot of aftermarket uicp I have seen have a thin mounting surface that is warped , so it will not seal well .

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

the greddy bov are good as well as the hks. both those are able to be recirculated. don't wast e your time with another 1g

 

[mhuffman]

I put a rubber glove over the end of the recirc tube and zip tied it on. at 4psi and higher, the glove inflated. The only place the air couldve been coming from is the BOV. I am running stock UICP. I am looking at the forge because its a direct bolt on and comes with a spring that holds 15-23 psi.

 

[FL_TalonTsi]

if u need a 1g bov, i have a perfectly running 1 uncrushed. came off my 90 talon with 110,000 miles. the bov holds boost perfectly fine but i got a great deal on a greddy type s that i just couldn't pass. pm me if u would like the bov valve.

 

[tkelly27]

Make sure you don't have anything obstructing the line on top of the BOV, and make sure you hook it up.

The top of the canister takes manifold boost and uses it to force the valve down. If it's not seeing boost from the intake tract, it will leak.

 

[mhuffman]

Make sure you don't have anything obstructing the line on top of the BOV, and make sure you hook it up.

The top of the canister takes manifold boost and uses it to force the valve down. If it's not seeing boost from the intake tract, it will leak.

Thanks 4 the tip; ill verify that line is unclogged.

 

[hypntcpimp]

i have a brand new turbo xs rfl bov, brand new still in box... ill let it go for 100 it reatils for 189.99 pm me if interested

 

[mhuffman]

Hey everyone; i ordered the forge motorsport recirculating 1g DV from extreme psi. i will mount it and test for leaks and let everyone know what psi it will hold. ill also get some videos of it so everyone can hear what it sounds like. as i run under 20psi, i will keep the yellow spring (15-23psi) installed.

Thanks for your feedback!

 

[98eclipsekidd08]

get another 1gbov and do the garage mod to it

 

[hypntcpimp]

wats the garage mod?

 

[mhuffman]

wats the garage mod?

It's a modification to the 1g BOV that blocks air from hitting the lower diaphragm. This helps the BOV hold much more pressure than stock. It can and probably would lead to compressor surge however, but Dejon powerhouse has a kit to address this problem.

 

[98eclipsekidd08]

i just noticed u already got a new bov haha brain fart. but anyways here is the garage mod if anyone wanted to know hypntcpimp http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

 

[Talesin]

Make sure you do the boost leak test with the TB plate open, or the vac line won't get boost reference, and the stock CBV will open (as it's designed to do) and 'leak'. You just need to make sure that the crank is at a point with no valve overlap (so not at TDC or 2-3 will have overlap), or all the pressure will just go out the exhaust. Your stock CBV (open under vacuum, unlike a 'true' BOV) may still be working just fine.

 

[mhuffman]

Make sure you do the boost leak test with the TB plate open, or the vac line won't get boost reference, and the stock CBV will open (as it's designed to do) and 'leak'. You just need to make sure that the crank is at a point with no valve overlap (so not at TDC or 2-3 will have overlap), or all the pressure will just go out the exhaust. Your stock CBV (open under vacuum, unlike a 'true' BOV) may still be working just fine.

Ah, thats a good comment. I didnt think of opening the throttle plate. However, air should leak thru the BISS and pressurize the manifold. Sicne its a small opening, it would take some time to equalize, but i think the pressures should equalize enough for the DV to see manifold pressure.

 

[KiNg MaRtY]

Forge BPVs have a very good rep. They are very stock sounding

 

[Mikael SS]

Ah, thats a good comment. I didnt think of opening the throttle plate. However, air should leak thru the BISS and pressurize the manifold. Sicne its a small opening, it would take some time to equalize, but i think the pressures should equalize enough for the DV to see manifold pressure.

no, you replaced something that didn't need it. an hks came on my car, and can very easily be pushed open. It is having equal pressure on both sides of the diaphram that prevents it from opening.

 

[Talesin]

Er... Might have. Don't know if it's good or bad, until it's tested in place. But in any case, the Forge BOVs are known for holding a hell of a lot more pressure without needing to be crushed. So it's an upgrade. Not neccessarily a required replacement, but not exactly a waste of money, either.

Problem with testing with the TB plate closed is that the positive pressure doesn't have a chance to 'leak' through the tiny crack left around the TB plate by the BISS. Takes time... potentially enough to let the stock CBV leak, at which point all the positive pressure vents through the recirc port instead.

 

[mhuffman]

I'll test next time with the throttle plate open and see if the 1g still leaks. If it doesn't, guess i can sell it to someone who needs it. I dont care either way as the forge can hold higher psi, is tunable, and is said on average to sound more aggressive than stock.

Thanks everyone for the feedback; next test i do ill make sure the throttle plate is open to allow faster (close to immediate) pressure equalization.

 

[patty AT forge]

There is another thread floating around here where I posted a pic comparing two of our valves, revised lock-ring to old-style. Are you familiar with it? Before installing the valve give that a look...

 

[mhuffman]

There is another thread floating around here where I posted a pic comparing two of our valves, revised lock-ring to old-style. Are you familiar with it? Before installing the valve give that a look...

I am only familiar with the existence of a revision. What visual clues are there?

 

[patty AT forge]

If you look at the bottom of the flange you should see a ring with two holes machined into it, this is what affixes the valve body to the flange. On the original part the holes were machined all the way through the lock-ring, on the new only part way.

This would allow for a leak from the bottom of the piston... the new part fixes that.

 

[mhuffman]

If you look at the bottom of the flange you should see a ring with two holes machined into it, this is what affixes the valve body to the flange. On the original part the holes were machined all the way through the lock-ring, on the new only part way.

This would allow for a leak from the bottom of the piston... the new part fixes that.

D'oh, my holes go all the way thru the silver ring at the bottom.

 

[patty AT forge]

Bummer... We have two options: you can send the valve to us or I can send you the new lock-ring.

If you have a snap-ring plier or a decent set of needle nose pliers it is a very simple swap. I usually recommend that you try to remove the old ring and if that was easy for you then we can assume that the install will be also... but if not you can send us the unit to complete the job.

Let me know.