1G bov Leaking

[Jeremoose]

Hey all. Just tonight I installed a UICP /w 1g BOV and an intake. The install went okay and I managed to get everything bolted up very tightly. So I fire up the car after and warmed my car up a little (no boosting).

Anyways, once I finally do hit boost I get a HUGE surge and the car loses all power (this happens at 5psi) and it sounds like the bov is just constantly venting. I did the soap and water test and found no leaks (that I can see) on the piping or on any of the pieces that were bolted or fitted together.

I'm fairly sure it's the BOV, what do you think? How do I fix it?

P.S. I watched the boost gauge and it's a little "wonky" both at idle and under accel/deceleration.

 

[MrBoxx]

Did you do an actual boost leak test or just sprayed soap and water on the pipes?

I suppose it's possible that something may have gotten stuck where the valve seats onto the housing, or the spring is failing. You may want to remove the BOV and check it.

 

[LunarEclips]

are you venting or recirculating?

 

[Jeremoose]

I just installed the IC piping and intake and dont' have an actual boost-leak tester built yet; so no I didn't do a real test. My BOV is recirculated btw..

From what I've been reading it really seems like the spring may be failing on it and I read something about putting the BOV in a vice, how does that work?

 

[oldman]

I just installed the IC piping and intake and dont' have an actual boost-leak tester built yet; so no I didn't do a real test. My BOV is recirculated btw..

The Soapy water test will only work when the intake is pressurized, your IC pipe/BOV installation isn't complete until you run a real boost leak test. Also, is your boost controller teed into the BOV line?

 

[LunarEclips]

did you make sure you connected the vacuum nipple to the intake from the BCS? Do you have a Boost Controller?

 

[Jeremoose]

The Soapy water test will only work when the intake is pressurized, your IC pipe/BOV installation isn't complete until you run a real boost leak test.

Good to know. Thanks

And yes, my MBC is teed into the BOV line.

 

[MrBoxx]

Haven't used this in a while.

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[Jeremoose]

Explain? Or linky?

 

[Jeremoose]

did you make sure you connected the vacuum nipple to the intake from the BCS? Do you have a Boost Controller?

I just checked all the hoses and fittings again, and yeah they're all connected properly (I wish it was that easy )

 

[oldman]

And yes, my MBC is teed into the BOV line.

teeing into the bov line will cause the BOV to open under boost because the mbc will bleed pressure off that line via the wastegate pressure relief hole on your mbc.

 

[Jeremoose]

Dear lord, so your telling me there's nothing wrong with the parts, but with the "installer"? *sigh* Now how do you reccomend I rig it up?

P.S. I didn't have a problem before I installed the 1g BOV... Does it have something to do with the fact that the 1g BOV is open even at idle or something?

 

[MrBoxx]

As originally posted by oldman:

Taking the pressure source from the j-pipe fitting has many benefits.

1. The main reason why alot of mbc instructions and some tech articles suggests to tap from the BOV line is because it's connected to the intake manifold, the argument is that this is more accurate because it's the same pressure the engine sees. In reality this is a non issue because the boost gauge is tap to the intake manifold no matter where you tap your mbc so there is no advantage in tapping the bov/manifold pressure as previously thought.

2. The proper functioning (opening and closing) of the bov depends greatly on the accuracy of the pressure in the vacuum hose you're thinking of tapping on or off boost so it's best to leave it connected directly to the manifold without any interference.

3. Tapping off the compressor/j-pipe offers the shortest vacuum hose route which greatly reduces the chance of boost spike.

4. In the case of boost leaks, tapping off the compressor/j-pipe will help prevent over boosting the turbo.

5. Hooking up a bleeder type mbc like the TurboXS standard mbc to the bov line will result in a vacuum leak as well as affect the working of the BOV.

There are countless threads where following oldman's suggestion cleared up whatever problems people had with their boost issues.

 

[MrBoxx]

Dear lord, so your telling me there's nothing wrong with the parts, but with the "installer"? *sigh* Now how do you reccomend I rig it up?

If your turbo compressor housing or LICP don't have any sort of nipples to attach a vacuum hose, you'll have to drill and tap and install a nipple or weld one on. Recently, I saw oldman suggest to someone that if you drill and tap for a nipple fitting, you should do so near the end of a pipe or the compressor outlet and file off the excess fitting that protrudes into the airflow, which I think is a pretty good idea.

Once a pressure source near the turbo is made, the vacuum hose should lead to the inlet of the MBC, then a vacuum hose should lead from the MBC outlet to the wastegate actuator. This produces the shortest route of vacuum hoses and better response time. It also doesn't interefere with the boost/vac signal to the BOV.

 

[Jeremoose]

Well, I don't have the capability to weld in my own nipple to the LICP at the moment... So I should I just be removing the MBC out of the system entirely for now?

 

[oldman]

Also keep in mind that although this is a known issue, it doen't mean it's your only problem. I suspect boost leaks actually being the main problem.

 

[Jeremoose]

Assuming there's no boost leaks (this may be a stretch but bear with me), removing the MBC from the equation could potentially fix the problem then yes? I plan on removing the MBC tomorrow anyways, just to see how that pans out.

In any case I have a custom LICP waiting to be installed (waiting on small 16g turbo delivery), so I'd might as well remove the MBC from my setup until the LICP is installed (on which I'll have a nipple welded).

 

[oldman]

Assuming there's no boost leaks (this may be a stretch but bear with me), removing the MBC from the equation could potentially fix the problem then yes? I plan on removing the MBC tomorrow anyways, just to see how that pans out.

It should at least help, and keep dreaming about no boost leaks.

 

[Jeremoose]

Oh I will! Thanks for your help everyone! If I get around to pulling that MBC out tomorrow I'll let you know all know how that pans out.

Other than that I intend to make a boost leak tester and see where I'm leaking at; I'll make sure to check in with all of you to let you know how things went

 

[Jeremoose]

Well, I removed the MBC and hooked everything back up in stock location and it still seems like my BOV is just constantly "venting"...

Hmmmm... I'm just thinking that I may have forgot to put a gasket in when I installed the BOV... Could that be causing this much leakage?

 

[oldman]

Hmmmm... I'm just thinking that I may have forgot to put a gasket in when I installed the BOV... Could that be causing this much leakage?

how do you forget the gasket? You have no gasket between two metal surfaces, what do you think?

 

[Jeremoose]

! Woooow, I feel like an idiot... I'll be right back

 

[MrBoxx]

I have no gasket.

I don't think I do anyway. I don't remember getting one with my intercooler pipes and BOV when I ordered them from Dejon. I suppose I should check that, huh?

 

[Jeremoose]

Okay, I'm gasket-less, but I can't seem to find the one I had... I guess I could sorta make my own with a piece of like 1/8 inch rubber couldn't I?

P.S. I made my boost leak tester, just have to use it.

 

[LunarEclips]

i suppose rubber would work, but cork would probably look better and seal better as well. You can buy cork gasket maker kits from autozone or kragen.