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1g BOV gone bad? maybe?

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GofaST4life

15+ Year Contributor
2,897
132
Oct 21, 2007
Medina 44256, Ohio
so after thinking i had a really bad boost leak, which made the car hit fuel cut anytime under WOT...i was driving to work and gave it a little gas, i noticed that the BOV was like blowing off by itself (if that makes sense)...let me try this...

under WOT, it kinda felt like fuel cut but instead of the car bogging down, the BOV would activate slowing the car because theres no boost, but once boost built back up, it would activate again, without me taking my foot off the throttle (make sense?). So, like the car, under WOT, is constantly blowing off

So the car is like..surging? that might be the right word.

Oh and at idle the i can hear air coming out of the BOV, i took off the recirc tube to make sure i wasnt just hearing things, and there is airflow. Shouldnt that not be happening?

any ideas?
 
It's normal for the bov to be open at idle allowing airflow. As far as it blowing off by itself under wot, the only time I've ever had that happen I checked the boost line that connects to the nipple on the back and it was split causing it to have no boost on top to help hold the valve closed. I replaced it and it worked fine. I hope it can be that simple for you. Good luck finding the problem.
 
It's normal for the bov to be open at idle allowing airflow. As far as it blowing off by itself under wot, the only time I've ever had that happen I checked the boost line that connects to the nipple on the back and it was split causing it to have no boost on top to help hold the valve closed. I replaced it and it worked fine. I hope it can be that simple for you. Good luck finding the problem.

can you explain this a bit further? im not sure what exact line your talking about.
 
What xsboost is trying to say check the vac line to the bov to make sure it hooked up...Also yes air will come out at idle my 2gen did that...The factory 2g bovs are only good to like 16 psi if that. Im looking at your profile and I see the greddy bov try adjusting it a little tighter if it for sure leaking under boost.
 
The boost reference line that connects from the intake manifold to this nipple.
 

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sorry about my previous wrong description. I ran a GReddy for so long I forgot the nipple was on the front of the 1g bov.
 
ok, yeah thats what i was thinking you meant, but when you said it connects on the back i thought you were talking about something else.

ok ill check that out asap.

Once i go home, ill be installing the GReddy RS i have on my Spyder.
 
does anyone have a picture of were the line from the BOV goes to on the intake?

When i look at how mine is set up, its seems a bit different from my 2g.
 
thats the perfect picture...

ok, so the line is hooked up correctly and not cracked or anything, and the car is still doing the same thing...hmmm, maybe i can take a video so you guys can better see what im talking about.
 
ok guys, i did the best i could while trying to drive, steer, shift and take a video at the same time...
It didnt really come out as i hoped, but i've found out that once full boost is made, and it reaches 4k rpm i hear the BOV go off then full boost is made again and it goes off again, the car feels like its being floored then someone slams the brakes then floored again and someone slams the breaks...that make sense?

either way it jerks and the BOV goes off every time, so its like RPMs, pshhh, RMPs, pshhh, get it? it will do this until i take my foot off the throttle.

haha sorry guys i'm just trying to be as descriptive as possible, heres the vid.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i285.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid285.photobucket.com/albums/ll56/awolo/Problem.flv">

and i have high idle, which is really acting weird, what light is that that on? heres a vid.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i285.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid285.photobucket.com/albums/ll56/awolo/HighIdle.flv">
 
That is the coolant low light.

You say it acts as if it is aways open? When you blip the throttle does it close? That might be fuel cut if it does not close.
 
its closed when given gas, but it seems that as soon as i hit 4k RPM's it opens and the car bogs down.

hmmm...i need to get my boost gauge in the car, maybe i am just over boosting.
 
hey bud you probly have a boost leak. if u cant make one you can buy one on ebay but check that and if there is no leak then check your throttle positioning sensor. my 93 tsi awd idled like that but i changed that out and it was fine.
 
so the car def wont go past 4k RPMs in first or second...man this sucks...

guess ill have to wait till thanksgiving break to go home and better diagnose this.
 
I wish we had a garage in Erie ROFL. The light on is the low coolant light. Fill the overflow reservoir and it should go away. As far as the bucking goes...I would bet a pretty good boost leak of some sort. Every dsm goes through the idle problems. The best thing I have found to do is to take off the throttle body, clean it up, replace the shaft seals, set your idle stop, biss, and check your tps and isc for proper resistances. Also make sure your wastegate is functioning properly so you aren't overboosting and hitting fuel cut. Let me know if you need anything.
 
i need a garage and tools, haha...i think i may have to wait till i go home to do some work...

how would i be able to test my wastegate? the thing is pretty rusty, not going to lie, but i guess youll have that with over 200k miles...
 
The way I check mine is applying pressure with an air compressor to the vacuum port (not too much pressure, you don't want to damage the diaphragm). Also like you said, a real boost gauge is a must.
 
yeah, im going to take mine out of my 2g...

but anyway, i have some more info, on my way to work, cruising at 55mph, in 5th gear...i would floor it, the boost gauge would show boost being built, but the RPMs WOULD NOT MOVE and at a certain point the car would stutter like a misfire and the BOV would open...which leads me to believe that this problem is just a big boost leak? Correct?

big d - your talking about the nipple on the wastegate itself right?
 
The factory boost gauge is a guess at the boost level based on air flow. If you have a boost leak, it will make the metered air amount shoot way up, the boost gauge will go up, and air actually entering the engine go down. This will cause it to will become rich and eventually over boost (because the engine can't read boost directly, overboost is a function of airflow). You really need positive intake pressures to truly find boost leaks. They can be anywhere, and are generally not big enough to see or hear without pressurizing them.

The best test for a WG actuator requires pressure, but you can check that the spring is still functioning and that the rod is still attatched with your hands.

Have you checked your check engine light codes?
 
The factory boost gauge is a guess at the boost level based on air flow. If you have a boost leak, it will make the metered air amount shoot way up, the boost gauge will go up, and air actually entering the engine go down. This will cause it to will become rich and eventually over boost (because the engine can't read boost directly, overboost is a function of airflow). You really need positive intake pressures to truly find boost leaks. They can be anywhere, and are generally not big enough to see or hear without pressurizing them.

The best test for a WG actuator requires pressure, but you can check that the spring is still functioning and that the rod is still attatched with your hands.

Have you checked your check engine light codes?

Ill just stay out of boost until i can get home and throw my real gauge on.
Do you think that becuase of what you said in your first paragraph is the reaosn my car wont go past 4k RPM's?

I would have checked the codes, buttttt there isnt a CEL on.
 
hey

my car had the same exact problem as yours, it wouldnt go past 4k and when it was at idle the idle would idle high and it would jump up and down. i did a boost leak test and i had a REALLY HUGE leak close to the lower IC pipes. so you might wanna check that out.
 
sparco431 - thanks for the input, i was hoping some else had this exact same problem, looks like ill be doing a boost leak test as soon as i can.

hopefully soon i can actually feel some real power.
 
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