1G AWD Rear Koni Install Hardware - What Goes Where?

[ReYnd]

This stuff came in a bag with some 1G rear Konis I was able to source from a vendor on eBay Australia. Pretty costly too, but I figured they were worth the investment. I took my stock rear strut off and have disassembled it. A couple pieces in this kit didn't look familiar from the get-go. Perhaps they fit another vehicle I'm unaware of? The white plastic pieces are the first, followed by the black plastic cups. I'm also curious about the four supplied nuts. As they don't have flanges, I imagine they're not for mounting the top hats to the body (and the originals don't really get damaged), so that leaves them for mounting the shock to the hat... with two extras?

I know this is a pretty simple question but this is the first time I've really delved into assembling a strut, and there are a few good reasons to want to get this done the right way the first time. As always, any help will be much appreciated!

 

[talonsnwbrdr]

Hey there! Have you checked out the VFAQs yet? Theres some good write-ups on there about Koni install/assembly.
I know the white plastic pieces are the first to go on. They act like scrapers (what I read at least). If you have more questions after lookin at the vfaqs p.m. me, I did the Koni/GC install a couple months ago. But I can't upload any pics yet, as I don't have an online photo base.

 

[ReYnd]

I've looked through the VFAQs, haven't seen anything concerning installing Konis actually meant for the 1G. The 2G Koni/GC in a 1G guide doesn't readily mention anything about these pieces. For clarity, I'm using the 8040-1129Sport shocks and Eibach Pro Kit springs. I'll be trimming the bumpstops and using new Mitsubishi rubber where applicable.

 

[talonsnwbrdr]

The nuts should be for mounting the strut to the hat in a double, locking nut configuration(why there's four). The nuts needed to mount the hat to the body are a different size anyway(at least on mine they're different sizes, but mine are also 2g Konis).

Have you checked out this thread too?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/an...-with-which-oem-parts-i-need-to-reuse.240784/

 

[KiNg MaRtY]

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This is a picture of my Koni. Basically the metal piece in the kit is the spring perch. Since you are using GC's you will not be using that piece and your GC threaded piece and the rotating sping perch will be replacing that. The plastic piece goes inbetween the strut and the bumpstop. You can't see it because my dustboot is covering it.

 

[ReYnd]

So everyone knows, I am not using the GC kit. I am using the discontinued and difficult to find 1G AWD Koni rears and the discontinued and not so difficult to find Eibach Pro Kit, resulting in an upgraded and lowered strut and not a hybrid-type coilover.

Talonsnwbrdr, I hadn't previously seen that thread. Some useful information in there, I'll put it to good use.

Marty, with your picture and short description of what isn't visible, I think I know how to make this happen now.

Thank you both very much for your assistance! This thread will be marked as resolved when I'm able to get one corner together without issues, and hopefully with pictures to help anyone else who may come along. In anticipation of the summer shutdown, already being behind and encountering frequent faults, the place I work has been running us all ragged, so that may take a while. But it will happen.



Some secondary thoughts not really related to my original question, but some things I considered and wished I'd known when looking for decent rear shock replacements:

• Koni bodies are painted, not powder coated. This means you can fabricate a bracket and weld it on to the body of a 2G Koni shock (which is currently still produced) for far less than it cost me to find originals, without the hassle of trying to color match powder if you want to make everything uniform again. I'm a completionist like that, hush.
• The brake like bracket could more easily be attached to a 2G Koni with a zip tie or something similar. That may scratch the shock body over time, or the tie may break, and at the very least wouldn't look original, no matter how many DSMs are held together with zip ties. Again, not a huge deal.
• I spent ever so slightly more for all my parts as I would have for the 2G/GC combo. If you go the latter route, which I probably would now, you'll save some cash initially, but depending on your fabrication skills, or those of someone you know, you may come out even there. With the exception of having externally adjustable shocks. Mine look like they'll be a hassle to adjust, so I'll set them once, in the middle position, and hope for the best.
• Since they should still offer their rebuild service for these, I would think they'd still offer the external adjustment conversion. It's pricey, but you probably already expected that.