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1G AFPR INSTALL (ebay)

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awzer2

10+ Year Contributor
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Nov 4, 2009
palm desert, California
I just purchased this
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And it came with a cool lil kit inluding a universal fitting ,clamps ,tubes,hoses and O rings, and a mount. I paid 24.99. watcha' guys think? and how do i install it? Is it just rail to input nipple and tank line to the output nipple? :rocks: Lemme' know guys,and its pretty DAMN solid about 2 1/2 lbs. it's a evo/honda universal one...
 

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The fittings on that AFPR are hose barb fittings, and they seem kinda small. I could be wrong however. I guess all you would need is the same size hose barb fitting for the fuel rail and you'll have to tap your fuel fail for it. I don't think I've ever seen a DSM bolt on fuel rail fitting that has a hose barb fitting on it.

Find a way to get fuel from the rail to a fitting on the regulator, then use a hose to slip over the stock return line, and you're all set. Don't forget to use a good vacuum source so the AFPR can rise 1:1 with boost.

You could even just get an AFPR install kit from most DSM vendors on here. That would make it look pretty nice.
 
The fittings on that AFPR are hose barb fittings, and they seem kinda small. I could be wrong however. I guess all you would need is the same size hose barb fitting for the fuel rail and you'll have to tap your fuel fail for it. I don't think I've ever seen a DSM bolt on fuel rail fitting that has a hose barb fitting on it.

Find a way to get fuel from the rail to a fitting on the regulator, then use a hose to slip over the stock return line, and you're all set. Don't forget to use a good vacuum source so the AFPR can rise 1:1 with boost.

You could even just get an AFPR install kit from most DSM vendors on here. That would make it look pretty nice.

Yeah same here ,but i was looking around and decided to go cheap,it's just for the N/T daily driver.. its a GS with a dead FPR so i decided to get this instead of the 60$ oem part.
its pretty dope ...Everything is EXACTLY the same size fitting. the hoses that came match up it came with like 20 orings .

but okay thanks for the pointers i know its pretty straight forward but ilike to double check and stuff . heh heh i think this a pretty good buy tho ..gonna go install it,ill come back with some cool pics.:hellyeah:
 
I'm still trying to figure out how you're going to get fuel to the FPR so quickly................

I won't hold my breath for these pics, LOL.
most simple install ever done....
im done but theres an issue...LOL the adapter they gave me that goes onto the fuel rail...is just flat it doesnt go into the fuel rail it just sits on the outside looks like i need an an6 adapter... f*#K!!!! where can i sNAg one??:coy:
 
Oh, I didnt realize you got an adaptor with it too.

Can you take a few good photos of this adaptor so I can see what you're talking about?

Nevermind, I found it on ebay. The pics I see has a hose barb fitting on the fuel rail adaptor. You didnt put the hose barb fitting INSIDE of the fuel rail, did you?
 
I got one of those for free with a bunch of ebay parts,

1) Don't use the fuel rail adapter that comes with it, it will leak. Get the Weapon R adapter, it has a hose style nipple. (And get Fuel Injection Rated hose)

2) It can't handle over a certain fuel pressure. Like if you are running 30 psi boost, you should have 73.5 psi fuel pressure (43.5+30). But it will stop rising at 60 psi or something. You can test this turning the adjustment screw, it will stop at a certain psi and just won't go any higher.
 
most simple install ever done....
im done but theres an issue...LOL the adapter they gave me that goes onto the fuel rail...is just flat it doesnt go into the fuel rail it just sits on the outside looks like i need an an6 adapter... f*#K!!!! where can i sNAg one??:coy:

if the fitting isn't like stock and doesn't go into the rail it will never seal. good luck with that. also, good name brand afprs don't last too long, but they at least sell the innards to them. i can't even imagine where you're going to find rebuild parts. an oem would have been better and should last at least 10 years. how do you know your fpr went bad?
 
Wouldnt a vacuum pump do a better job at testing that then an adjustment screw while the car is running? It says its adjustable up to 150psi or something. Cause if thats the case, anything over 17psi and you're running into problems.
 
Oh, I didnt realize you got an adaptor with it too.

Can you take a few good photos of this adaptor so I can see what you're talking about?

Nevermind, I found it on ebay. The pics I see has a hose barb fitting on the fuel rail adaptor. You didnt put the hose barb fitting INSIDE of the fuel rail, did you?

ROFL Imagine if i did.....haha naw Should i??? :p
I know i can get an adapter online but i wanted ta know if it is somthing i can pick up at autozone...and if not im sure i can rig something up from some different plumbing..im looking at the denso fpr and it looks pretty much like an injector base...it has a pretty similar molding..all it is,is a type of extension.:rolleyes:
 
the OP said it's for a non-turbo car. i hope it's a 1g. if it's adjustable to 150 psi, why would 17 psi of boost not be good for it? when they say it's adjustable to x psi it means that what you can set the base too. you can of course deviate out of those values once you have a vac/boost line going to it. even the aeromotive says their fpr is only adjustable to 40-75, and i have it set on my car to ~36.3 psi.

you could always cut apart your stock bad fpr and drill and tap it for 1/4" npt.
 
if the fitting isn't like stock and doesn't go into the rail it will never seal. good luck with that. also, good name brand afprs don't last too long, but they at least sell the innards to them. i can't even imagine where you're going to find rebuild parts. an oem would have been better and should last at least 10 years. how do you know your fpr went bad?

yeaaa...i figured it was the fpr because my car was shooting gas like crazy,and floods the engine . it was getting 6mpg. fuel filter,pump lines injectors and ecu are all new. im rebuilding .
 
if it is indeed the fpr, it has to be something else that is telling the injectors to open more. there is no way a bad fpr would give you only 6 mpg on a non-turbo.
 
the OP said it's for a non-turbo car. i hope it's a 1g. if it's adjustable to 150 psi, why would 17 psi of boost not be good for it? when they say it's adjustable to x psi it means that what you can set the base too. you can of course deviate out of those values once you have a vac/boost line going to it. even the aeromotive says their fpr is only adjustable to 40-75, and i have it set on my car to ~36.3 psi.

you could always cut apart your stock bad fpr and drill and tap it for 1/4" npt.

I forgot it was for a n/t. Most people who need a rising rate regulator have turbo dsm's.........

someone said that this ebay regulator stops rising at 60psi, so if fuel pressure was set to 43, and you boosted more than 17psi, it wouldn't have the fuel pressure. I just find that hard to believe because of the way he was testing it with the adjustment screw at idle.
 
if it is indeed the fpr, it has to be something else that is telling the injectors to open more. there is no way a bad fpr would give you only 6 mpg on a non-turbo.

well lets just see how it goes after the install, would it be dangerous to set below base? and is the return line the bottom nipple or side nipple on the afpr? gotta double check i got the tank hose to the side and bottom hose to the fuel rail(or WILL be to the rail when i get the an6 adapter )

I forgot it was for a n/t. Most people who need a rising rate regulator have turbo dsm's.........

someone said that this ebay regulator stops rising at 60psi, so if fuel pressure was set to 43, and you boosted more than 17psi, it wouldn't have the fuel pressure. I just find that hard to believe because of the way he was testing it with the adjustment screw at idle.

if i were boosting..believe you me i would go aeromotive.. I have one for my Gsx and gst..

if it is indeed the fpr, it has to be something else that is telling the injectors to open more. there is no way a bad fpr would give you only 6 mpg on a non-turbo.

What do You think is wrong?? :\
 
i really won't help to set below base pressure because when the ecu is in closed loop, and will compensate for this. when you are in open loop 3500 rpm and above, or WOT it will help a tiny bit, but i would start thinking about using some 89 or 91 gas then if you feel or hear any knock.
 
Hope you have better luck with this than I did. That same exact AFPR was on my car when I bought it. It did absolutely nothing. I'm using the stocker right now but am about to install my AEM :D
 
yes but you should be able to feel or hear knock. of course a knock sensor can detect it before you can. they also make knock detection systems.

what does knock have to do with this thread WTF

anywho,check this out...
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there installed . :barf:

Did i install it correctly? i put the hose from the tank to the side nipple and the return line from the rail to the bottom nipple...someone correct me if im wrong.
 

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This for an N/T? Should be moved to the N/T section.

I believe this was already said to be a no go as a rising 1:1 FPR for turbo DSMs.

For a cheap alternative for turbo guys, see the Aeromotive copy from ebay

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...el-pressure-regulator-knockoff-copy-ebay.html

okay that link was already posted in this thread...And no it is fine right here..BECAUSE in the forum description it says "FUEL SYSTEM" under BOLT-ON TECH...:)
Moving on... Would you care to answer my question? CAN you answer my question?

CAN ANYONE answer my question? haha geesh...:thumb:





PROBLEM.....
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SOLUTION.....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...1ff8c4e73&rvr_id=&ua=WXF?&itemid=350268545984

(already bought) the end of this thread for now :D
 

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what does knock have to do with this thread WTF

are you serious?...

would it be dangerous to set below base?

i answered that question, and mentioned knock...

turbo cars aren't the only cars that get knock and can melt pistons from going lean.

it would have been easier to just drill and tap your old fpr like i said. the money you're putting into this could have almost had you a stock fpr, which will last longer. this fpr isn't going to last as long as an oem one, by a general rule that even good name brand ones last a couple years. since it's a way no name and not even an aeromotive copy you aren't going to be able to rebuild it.
 
are you serious?...



i answered that question, and mentioned knock...

turbo cars aren't the only cars that get knock and can melt pistons from going lean.

it would have been easier to just drill and tap your old fpr like i said. the money you're putting into this could have almost had you a stock fpr, which will last longer. this fpr isn't going to last as long as an oem one, by a general rule that even good name brand ones last a couple years. since it's a way no name and not even an aeromotive copy you aren't going to be able to rebuild it.

I needed to know if i installed the tubes correctly.............................................................................................................................................................................. ;)
( but thanks for the info) if i wanted a stock fpr i wouldve bought one..im painting the car putting a few lil spiffy parts and selling the car... its an old 93 gs with 215k miles i figure i can sell it to someone who can take care of it i own 3 other vehicles and this car is the last thing i want. its lightly restored,along with gaskets pistons arms studs and a new valve cover. the Afpr was mainly for dress up to be honest....
 
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