1g-2g swap HELP!

[sleeper2g]

I swapped the engine and now it will crank, turn over, then die., I have the 1G green Camshaft angle sensor and wired it according to Magnus, I need help, the shop that did the repairs on my JDM swap wired everything wrong and ripped out my super AFC to get the ecu back to normal.(i did not authorize them to do that). I have saudered ever thing back to where it's supposed to go but still wont stay running for more than 2 seconds. Please help almighty DSM Gurus!

 

[blackGSX2g]

I'm not sure about the differences between your JDM 6-bolt swap and my USDM 6-bolt swap, but there really isn't much wiring necessary to change. Did you do the injector swap and use the 2g TPS? Does it stay running if you start pumping the throttle? Play around with your CAS and try to get timing a bit better.

 

[GTM]

I swapped the engine and now it will crank, turn over, then die., I have the 1G green Camshaft angle sensor and wired it according to Magnus, I need help, the shop that did the repairs on my JDM swap wired everything wrong and ripped out my super AFC to get the ecu back to normal.(i did not authorize them to do that). I have saudered ever thing back to where it's supposed to go but still wont stay running for more than 2 seconds. Please help almighty DSM Gurus!

Hopefully this has been solved but if not... This sounds like fuel pump run circuit is not working. When you turn the key on the pump runs for a second or so (this is a timer function AND not a pressure function. When you advance to the crank/start position it should keep the pump running until you release the key back to the on position. Because the engine has started you have oil pressure and charging, if either of these are not working or their relays/fuses are burned the fuel pump will _not_ run and the engine will die.

You can jumper the fuel pump relay and have it on all the time, this should allow the engine to run if that's the problem. You will still have to find why it's not working correctly and make those repairs.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[evolvingGS-t]

Wow! Sounds a little to [/I]extreme tech for me, but I did the 1g JDM swap and I experienced the same deal. And just like GTM said, something with my fuel pump or another wasn't working. Had one of my buddies check it out and bamm!!!! cranked right over.

 

[GTM]

Wow! Sounds a little to [/I]extreme tech for me, but I did the 1g JDM swap and I experienced the same deal. And just like GTM said, something with my fuel pump or another wasn't working. Had one of my buddies check it out and bamm!!!! cranked right over.

Unfortunately the poster has not returned to let us know if they have solved the problem. Although annoying perhaps it has something to do with their job but still it's common courtesy to inform those interested and willing to give a part of their life to solve a problem

Cheers,
GTM

 

[sleeper2g]

Sorry for the delay. my soldiers keep me busy. We put some starting fluid in it and got it to start, it will not idle though, I have to pump the gas to kepp it going. It is drivable, but it wont idle, so it sucks. My neighbor is a mster mech and worked for Mitsu, we aligned the timimng and it was 1 tooth off, not enough to make it do what it's doing. I checked the MFI relay and that is good , the TPS is good, all vacume and intercooler pipes are good, the only thing I can think of is the ECU any thoughts???

 

[GTM]

Sorry for the delay. my soldiers keep me busy. We put some starting fluid in it and got it to start, it will not idle though, I have to pump the gas to kepp it going. It is drivable, but it wont idle, so it sucks. My neighbor is a mster mech and worked for Mitsu, we aligned the timimng and it was 1 tooth off, not enough to make it do what it's doing. I checked the MFI relay and that is good , the TPS is good, all vacume and intercooler pipes are good, the only thing I can think of is the ECU any thoughts???

Ok, figured as much. You going to be around so we are not talking to ourselves and behind your back?

Good deal, it RUNS, that's always rewarding. Off the top I might suggest you or neighbor might check the BISS screw in the throttle plate housing. I don't know if you have a temp sensor in the housing so this could also be something you should establish. You may have a fairly large vacuum leak so check your hoses for leaks, this can be a visual inspection.

Stuck PCV valve may be dirty, carb spray may free it up. EGR stuck. Bunch more possibilities but need some input from you.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[sleeper2g]

I've tried the BISS screw in eevery possible position, this week we will take the 1G intake manifold off and try the 2g one, although every thing was fine before I had a "ASE cert mechanic" work on it because the 1G head had bad cam bearings and I had the balance shafts removed. hmmm, I'll let ya know whats up in a couple days

 

[GTM]

I've tried the BISS screw in eevery possible position, this week we will take the 1G intake manifold off and try the 2g one, although every thing was fine before I had a "ASE cert mechanic" work on it because the 1G head had bad cam bearings and I had the balance shafts removed. hmmm, I'll let ya know whats up in a couple days

I'm semiretired but held a Master Mechanic NIASE/ASE cert.

Just for the heck of it since you have already tweake the biss and don't know where it was. Screw it all the way down gently until it seats, then count 3 complete turns in half steps open. This is usually pretty close but other things can influence this including vacuum leaks. Do check that there is a little free play with the cable, do make sure that the throttle plate can close and isn't badly worn or damaged.

Using the little red straw you could try spraying carb spray around the manifold where there could be possible leaks. Proper shop practices must be followed to prevent fire etc (this is a disclaimer).

Surly you jest about pulling the 1G manifold if it's fitted to a 1G head and throttle body. If you need I can put up some pictures which will make you think twice for the air flow must be between 25%-50% better on the 1G set.

Who/what rewire was done and did you have some that couldn't be used? What was done about the 1G having only CAS and the later with crank sensor?

Cheers,
GTM

 

[RavenX]

When you turn on the car did you try to hold the gas to keep it alive and then let off the gas but it still died? One thing to check out is the ISC Drivers in the ECU they are located in the middle right far most of the ecu and look like little rectangles. There should be 4 i beleive. Look at the last 2 going from left to right and check to see if they look burnt or use a multimeter to check out which trace went bad. When i switched to my 95ecu i kepted blowing the ISC drivers and traces. 3 95 ecus later and i got one that didn't blow. Anyway its worth a shot as a last resort

 

[sleeper2g]

I'll try resetting the biss that way, I used the Magnus motorsports rewire method and it worked before it went to the shop, I pulled the CAS and rotated it with the key on, I could hear the injectors fire and the spark was good, so back to the TB and I'll check the ECU, I haven't opened it yet because its rather strange, instead of a metal case it is black plastic with no screws, just tabs and I didnt want to bust it open yet. The head is a 2G head, I had mentioned that the 1G cams were pretty bad, but I forgot that the valves were bent so I had them put my 2G head on instead of rebuilding the other head.Well, wish me luck, I will report back in a couple days

 

[sleeper2g]

I have a bad coolant temp sensor but nothing else, I dont see why that would make it run that terrible. I am at a loss, everything else checks out, the ecu works in my buddy's car fine. Idont know what else to check

 

[GTM]

I have a bad coolant temp sensor but nothing else, I dont see why that would make it run that terrible. I am at a loss, everything else checks out, the ecu works in my buddy's car fine. Idont know what else to check

Not to confuse temp sender for you temp gauge or temp sensor for ECU. This performs the task of determining how much fuel should be injected when the engine is cold, warm and hot.

The manual should give testing procedures with an ohm meter at different temps. Will probably require removal for testing. Not sure but Pep Boys may carry them, try the Zone or other chain parts stores. You could buy it, don't open the box and test yours, if tests bad you are now ready to install new unit. Maybe $40??????????

What you describe is a bit radical for the sensor alone to be at fault, might have to do some more adjustments after replacing if bad. Do of course check plug and wires for damage.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[sleeper2g]

Yes it is indeed a bad temp sensor to the ecu, I did the Ohm test with a digital thermometer and the the Ohms are way out of specs according to the manual, I als put in a fresh fuel filter and am just waitng to hitch a ride downtown to get the temp sensor (c'mon pay day!) after this I will check the fuel pump and the soldering on the ecu from the afc and just about every thing else I have done again until I find what ever it is I am missing. But I did score some free racing seats! not that it does me any good right now

 

[95TSiNewbie]

Is your car running yet? I have a similar problem after installing a new motor.

 

[sleeper2g]

yes it runs, the mechanic that did my head put the 1g intake manifold on the 2g head and there was a huge vacuum leak in the number 1 runner. WTF

 

[kubix]

im having the same problem as well, seems like a huge vacuum leake i think. If you leave your head under the engine long enough it feels like your eyes start burning. i was thinking it might have been a bad CAS but it was firing right. im going to rewire it again with thicker wires as i was using small ones. putting in some new gas and checking the vacuum hoses. but it seems like thats the same problem i had, very very rought idle. It sounded like i had some massive cams.