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420A 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS shuts off after a few minutes

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kenno4

Probationary Member
11
1
Jul 19, 2025
Port Saint Lucie, Florida
i have a 1999 mitsubishi eclipse 420a car turns on from time to time but shuts off after a few minutes, i already change camshaft sensor, redid the harness, idle control valve, and ignition module as well as the coils and sparks. any ideas on what this can be causing this? Plzzzz help
 
Since you've thrown everything else at it have you tried a crank sensor? Those are also pretty notorious for going bad. I usually get the beck arnley ones since the cheap ones have a tendency to fail.
have not, i will try and find that and will order it as soon as possible, i will lyk if that helps. thank youu

do you mind adding a link with the one you got?
 
So i ended up changing the crank sensor and still the same issue, car starts but shuts off after 1 min or so
 
I would suspect fuel pressure - test it - there's a service port on the fuel rail to attach a tester. Fuel filter may also need replacing.
i have a new filter here, i will start off with that see what happens
 
Remember to release fuel pressure before doing anything with fuel lines by disconnecting fuel pump (FP) connector and start/run engine until it quits. Or instead of unplugging the FP (connector is above the fuel tank) it may be easier to just unplug the FP relay which is the left relay (as you face it) on the engine firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir. {just FYI: For the fuel pressure test, the normal fuel pressure is a constant 47-50 psi at fuel rail service port with key on and engine either on or off (even off for days).}

Additional: I recommend doing the fuel pressure test first (or at the same time since you have to release fuel pressure for both anyway) because you may have a partial leak somewhere (eg. FP check valve, injector, fuel pressure regulator, etc). It may not even be a clogged fuel filter (which would display a low pressure reading) so you may be replacing it for nothing (also the fuel filter nuts are always rusted on and miserable to remove - many end up destroying the filter because they can't get the nuts loose. Use 2 wrenches on the nuts, one on each, but first spray nuts with penetrant, tap, and let sit for hours). Also the fuel pressure should stay constant for days with the engine off. If it doesn't you have a leak somewhere. And with the engine on it should also stay constant.
 
Last edited:
Remember to release fuel pressure before doing anything with fuel lines by disconnecting fuel pump (FP) connector and start/run engine until it quits. Or instead of unplugging the FP (connector is above the fuel tank) it may be easier to just unplug the FP relay which is the left relay on the engine firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir. {just FYI: For the fuel pressure test, the normal fuel pressure is a constant 47-50 psi at fuel rail service port with key on and engine either on or off (even off for days).}

Additional: I recommend doing the fuel pressure test first (or at the same time since you have to release fuel pressure for both anyway) because you may have a partial leak somewhere (eg. FP check valve, injector, fuel pressure regulator, etc). It may not even be a clogged fuel filter (which would display a low pressure reading) so you may be replacing it for nothing (also the fuel filter nuts are always rusted on and miserable to remove - many end up destroying the filter because they can't get the nuts loose. Use 2 wrenches on the nuts, one on each, but first spray nuts with penetrant, tap, and let sit for hours). Also the fuel pressure should stay constant for days with the engine off. If it doesn't you have a leak somewhere. And with the engine on it should also stay constant.
amazing instructions, thank you sooo much i’m going to find some time tmr and do the test!!
 
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