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Resolved 1995 A/C problem question!

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gsx tuningart

20+ Year Contributor
80
3
Jan 18, 2005
Viterbo, Europe
Hi, i need of A/c circuit diagrams for 95 eclipse gsx.
i have all electric manual available ,but is for 97 99 and is different!
any help is appreciated!
I need the diagrams of this version a/c.

When i push the button on the dash , the transistor inside the A/C auto controller burn!
I checked all the components, and all is fine separately .
when is all togheter connected and push the button, the transistor burn and A/C not work
 

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If either of the 2 diodes in the a/c controller are bad, it will toast that transistor so maybe one or both of them are shorted. Have you checked them while you are checking the transistor? Just a thought.
 
If either of the 2 diodes in the a/c controller are bad, it will toast that transistor so maybe one or both of them are shorted. Have you checked them while you are checking the transistor? Just a thought.

Hi, thanks for your reaply!
yes, check everything!
first time ,i have replaced a/c controller with other a/c controller.
The A/C start and work for a while ,like 2 minuts .
Then,the transistor burn again.
I have replaced the transistor for both a/c controller , but now burn immediatly when push the button and a/c never work.
 
That transistor feeds directly into the dual pressure switch then the temperature switch and finally to the compressor coil. If BOTH diodes are good in the a/c controller then, to me, it is putting too big of a load on the transistor and blowing it.
You COULD jumper wire the a/c relay and do an AMP DRAW on the power feed at to see how many amps are on it, but have you tried changing the a/c relay itself to be sure it isn't shorted, in turn, blowing the controller transistor? I am just looking at the schematic and seeing what could blow that and there isn't that much. I would put 2 new diodes in and a new transistor and unplug the a/c compressor at the compressor and turn on the circuit, it shouldn't blow but if it does, it is a short somewhere before it gets to the compressor.
 
He wants the AC circuit, not the fan relays. Try this:
Thanks guys,but this circuit diagram is for 97 99.
You Can see the a/c switch with One position ,One fin thermos sensor and the a/c ECU is easy in your diagram.
My car is 95 ,have a dual position a/c switch,two sensor (Fin thermo sensor and air temp sensor).
The A/c ECU is different!
I need the diagrams like yours,but for my version!
 

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My car is a real DSM,imported in Italy from Usa years ago!

I found this in another thread for problem with a/c .
so ,two version out there !
"I've also been wrestling with the MB946485 controller for a few days now. I hope this helps someone else out. After pouring over the wiring diagrams for the controller for a while and playing with a multimeter for a few hours, we now know the following:

1. MB946485 is a controller for DSM air conditioners that were manufactured with the two-step econ/regular button. I don't believe DSM's with the one step use this controller, as they use the newer type controller instead. (If anyone has ever seen otherwise let me know). The MB946485 has two inputs (blue, and blue/black wire), one for economy A/C, and one for regular. One wire is set to +12v for economy mode, and both are +12 for normal mode.

2. The adjustable dial on the MB946485 seems tocontrol the temperature differential between regular and economy modes. (Based on my limited understanding of reading circuits) See: 2g Eclipse Tech Info Manual Pages 7-36 and 7-38

3. MB946485 has TWO temperature sensor inputs, one for air temperature, and one for fin temperature. The fin temperature test from the shop manual works, but I cannot find one for the air temperature sensor. They do output separate readings, and are quite a bit off. The tech manual is the only proper documentation that I can find on this. My car has both sensors, and they both lead into the coolingunit, and are sealed with RTV.

4. The four yellow wires on the left hand side of the harness represent the two temperature sensors. The two wires that are closes together represent one sensor.

5. There are two grounds on the harness (black wires)

6. The red wire on the harness provides power to the unit.

7. The green wire with the orange stripe is for outputof both the A/C fan relay, and the loop that goes in the following order: Dual Pressure Switch > A/C Temp Sensor (compressor) > ECU. If you have a sensor that is not reading ON, then the A/C clutch will not engage. The A/C clutch binary value in DSMLink will be set to 0. With this controller, however, the A/C fan relay will be turned on regardless of whether the A/C clutch is engaging.

8. If you wish to test the circuit without the MB946485, simply unplug the harness and take apaper clip and plug it into the red and green/orange wires. The two temperature sensors will be bypassed and allow you to check out other sensors.

9. The MB946485 is a STURDY animal. Mine was acting a little strange, so I pulled the casing apart and found some corrosion between two of thesolder pads. I cleaned the traced and pads up with acetone, and the controller ran like it was brand new
 
Anybody answer your quesion or get you the diagram for the 95 double compressor switch yet? I got all the 95 service manuals when I purchase my 95 gst but they are only paper versions. I can scan them while I'm at work tomorrow if you still need it.
 
Here is the 1995 ac eletrical diagrams for both manual & auto.
 

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A very helpful thread with my own A/C failure -- thanks to all! Misc. possibly useful comments:

1. If you take down the controller (on the bottom of the blower) you can remove the four Philips head screws in the bottom plate, take off the cover, and easily depress the latches to remove the plugs.

2. The other weak link in the control circuit is the push switch -- the traces on the circuit board are TINY. If fuses are okay but pressing button doesn't turn on the LED in the switch, the switch itself is prob'ly blown. To replace, remove the bezel, depress a latch on the top of the switch body, and shove it toward you out of the panel. You can pull it out far enough to remove the connector. If your hands are larger than those of a Japanese mechanic you may need to remove the four tapping screws holding the air controls and push the assembly down to get more clearance.

3. A handy tool for lots of electrical troubleshooting is a relay with the plastic top sawed off about 1/4" about the bottom. Use fine tooth saw, don't cut all the way through the plastic, and pop it off with a flat screwdriver. You can access all four connections for voltage testing plus close the relay manually by pressing in the armature to check the rest of the circuit.

Don't run the compressor more than a few seconds this way (or with a jumper) as it doesn't run the fans.

4. With the A/C controller unplugged a jumper between pins 1-6 on the plug (blue-red tracer and green-orange tracer) bypasses the controller function entirely: if this makes the compressor go then check:

A. The light(s) on the A/C switch are on when pressed -- if not, prob'ly a bad switch. And,
B. The resistance of the thermo sensor(s) on the smaller (2 or 4 wire) plug. Should be under 5,000 ohms in every case, probably ~1000 if it's warm enough for A/C. Also check these for grounds -- should be none.

If 1-6 jumper makes compressor go and checks A & B are both good, you probably have a bad controller.

If this jumper doesn't make the compressor go but jumpering pins 4-5 on the compressor relay does, then you've got a bad triple pressure switch, a bad compressor thermo switch, a bad compressor relay, a bad engine control module, or wiring trouble.

My problem appears to be a bad controller.
 
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