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1992 Talon Tsi AWD Re-habilitation

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9/28/15:
My SCG-1 started acting up, as can be seen in this video at 30 seconds in under a very light throttle in 5th:



It just cycles power. In that video is the first time it has done that. I took it out a couple times over the weekend and on one long ride it did it like 3 times while simply cruising down the road. Then sitting in the garage with just the key on, it would show its normal 22.4afr, and once in awhile just show 14.7 for a quick second then go back to 22.4.

So I checked, jiggled, inspected, etc all the wires at the ecu. Everything looks good, no change in the gauge when doing so. Checked all my connections up at the gauge, jiggled, yanked, etc, gauge was steady. The SCG-1 and MTX-D both get power from the ecu power, and ground on the radio frame where the ecu grounds, the only change is the wye at the gauges where each one gets a fuse. The MTX-D is rock solid, so I'm very confused. I was really hoping there WAS a loose wire, so the solution was simple. Oh well, have to see what happens next time I take it out.

First start-up was 05/24/15, so about 4 months ago. The manual states that after 3 months for a turbo car or daily driver, you should recalibrate the sensor.

So tonight, I recalibrated the o2 sensor in free air. So we'll see what happens....
 
Pretty crappy day for MOD East Coast last weekend, but still an OK turnout I guess. I got to park next to Louie, so that was nice...
08zphxsh.jpg


and final edition Evo:
uyTjzOWh.jpg


and glamour shotz:
DtPNPHyh.jpg
 
10/15/15:
For some peace of mind, I received it over the weekend, and installed tonight, the Innovate HBX-1 heat-shield bung extender thingy :

PmxWWeWh.jpg


and 10 minutes of your life you'll never get back, installation video:

 
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Took some time today to play with DashWare, now that I sort of have the hang of it, I'll add more (or more detailed) gauges and continue to video tuning pulls and whatnot, seems pretty cool to me:

 
@Maes I picked up the Hero 4+ silver with a 30-something accessory kit off amazon for about $400 total. I'm wearing it on the headband in that vid. I was really wearing it to compare my gauge readings w/ the log, but I'm too tall so I can't really even see the SCG-1 in that vid. Might have to go with the suction cup on the window for future pulls.

My buddy scott uses the sony equivalent in his evo8 (since the sony has gps and that's good for his road racing guage/render overlay), mounted in-car coming down from his sunroof glass. The sony has an aux input for mic, like a headphone jack, so he runs a tiny little microphone out of that, taped to the rear bumper just above his tailpipe. Makes for excellent video+audio. He might want to move it all little further away, or adjust the volume for the mic input, but i think it's a lot better than "in-car sound":

 
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I've been wanting to get one of those it's pretty cool and serves as more eyes which I like. Thanks for the info.
 
01/24/16:

SCG-1 is still randomly resetting power, so I think I'm gonna remove all the male/female connectors and instead solder everything. I'm also using those sorta-cheap glass fuse connectors for the gauges, so I might swap those out for the blade-style kind for a more secure connection there. I don't notice the MTX-D having any intermittent power at all, and they both have the same power and ground connections, so it has to be something only in the scg-1's wiring.

So anyway, plowed the driveway, twice, and it still snowed an additional little bit after that, so I figured it was time to play for a minute, plus run the car for its weekly/bi-weekly warm-up during winter:

 
3/20/16:
Two Thursdays ago there was a little local meet. Couple guys showed up. @LouieAWDTSi, @Jerzm3, my buddy scott in his evo, etc.

i8UhJhTh.jpg


N71ljcEh.jpg


My car had been acting up with the SCG-1 randomly resetting power. Sometime's I'd see it just before it happened, and it would peg full lean for the blink of an eye
shut off, turn back on, do o2 htr, then work fine till it did it again 5 minutes later. So I figured maybe it was those push-pull type glass fuse holders. ripped those out and soldered in blade-style fuses. Still reset power. Then I added a relay in for power direct from battery instead of tapping gauge power direct from the ECU, still did it. Unplugged the boost solenoid from the gauge. Still reset power. Last thing I could try on my end was a new o2 sensor.

So far, ran the car twice. Idled for about 10 minutes, didn't reset. Drove it around the corner to my buddy's shop yesterday to throw it on the lift and install the N/S bars for the 3pc crossmember. Drove it back after install, didn't reset.

So maybe the o2 sensor was shorting for some reason, momentarily? Just weird just about every error built into the SCG-1 has to do with the o2 sensor, and I get no errors, it just shuts off.

So here's the N/S bars installed:

9qbiUeVh.jpg


j5XlB2Oh.jpg


Next up is just keep driving it to verify SCG-1 operation, again. I just don't understand, it was perfectly fine for 5 months, then all of a sudden that reset problem started happning. Very mysterious.
 
3/22/16:

Welp, when I took the car over to my buddy's garage to install those N/S bars on the front crossframe, I wanted to make a little DA change to the coolanttempfueladjust table,but link wouldn't connect. tried tonight, my tablet and my laptop, wouldn't connect. pulled the ecu and found out i've had a 90 ecu in there the whole time.

not that it really mattered, since i don't have an idle stop switch or a maf, and those are the only 2 pins different between 90 and 91+. however, i was thinking that if the 90 ecu was a little weak, maybe having the wideband suck power off that ecu power wire frigged the ecu, and in turn, it was frigging up the wideband.

so fresh verified 92 ecu is in there, swapped my link chip over, key-on, connected first try, no sweat. so i'll tuck all the wires back in and tidy the car back up tomorrow night. to be continued..
 
How I've never stumbled onto this build blows my mind. I'm in the middle of blasting all of my sub frames right now and stuff too. I have a local powdercoater that is doing things for a very fair price for me, Isn't that going to hold up better than paint will?
 
Thanks bud. And yes, powdercoating will definitely hold up better. I already have flaking on the paint, and tons of little bolts and other oem hardware that I've cleaned have started rusting due to the car sitting in the garage all winter, which blows my mind (and pisses me right off).
 
got a few questions for you, how much did the 3pc front n/s bars run you and where can you get them?
Where did you get the 3k halogen fog lights?
Your car's very similar to how I envisioned my own, I'm far from where your at tho, I'm still working on my stock rebuild for my 6 bolt.
 
got a few questions for you, how much did the 3pc front n/s bars run you and where can you get them?
Where did you get the 3k halogen fog lights?
Your car's very similar to how I envisioned my own, I'm far from where your at tho, I'm still working on my stock rebuild for my 6 bolt.

the HID's i got from ebay, crossed my fingers they're not pos since they're only like $30 for each set, so far so good.

the 3pc that are on the car are from True Street Tuning & Fab, which is a guy on facebook. I do also have Paul Volk's 3pc set in my garage, unopened, that I'm looking to sell for 300 shipped if someone wants it.
 
3/30/16:
Another local car meet, kind of enjoy taking her out a couple nights a week now and having a buddy or two show up:

2hpfhQo.jpg


Next project, aside from WOT tuning, is front lower air dam. I don't have any cooling problems, but I do have a huge FMIC, A/C condensor, and radiator, so that's a good bit of stuff up there and usually does present a problem in hot weather. Thankfully I don't have those problems, but just in case, I'd like to embark on a journey to close this area off:

9ZOSdYVh.jpg


I was thinking sheet-metal, just cut to fit. But that'd look so, homemade, and could possibly rattle and rust and who knows what. So I started browsing ebay for lower shields, air dams, etc. I came up with this guy from an Audi A4, which seems to have a similar front end to ours, so I ordered it and she arrived yesterday, so I'll play with that this weekend:

W8Aik5qh.jpg


It was under $40 shipped, so I won't feel so bad cutting it to fit around things.
 
So are you going to close off that gap and force all the air through from the front? Just wondering. I put a 86 Camaro air dam in that spot to force air up and into the radiator, I think you can see it in my avatar. It helped keep the car cooler. It probably would work even better if I removed the weatherstrip from the back of the hood to let it flow. I'm watching your progress and of course wish you success!!! :thumb:
 
My assumptions are, this would help create a non-short circuit while the car is at rest, so that mostly fresh air from the front would be sucked thru, versus the rad fans just sucking hot air in a circular motion thru the rad, then right back thru the rad.

And while in motion, this would help create negative pressure at a point behind the i/c,rad,condenser cores, so that more air flowed thru them.
 
Gotcha, so it would help "suck" the air in and through where I am forcing it through. Sounds like a well thought out plan!
 
04/08/16:
Went to another car meet Tuesday night, pulled this:
YPI5v8ch.jpg


On the way home, pulling into the garage, the SCG-1 reset again. So I think I'm frying the o2 sensors having them in a tubular o2 housing, right in the stock location with a very short bung.

So today I took my DP over to a guy to get the bung in the SCG-1 kit installed further down on the DP. Test fitted and seems like a pretty good spot to test out without the Heat Sink for now, and have a couple more o2 sensors on the way...

nZqcbp1h.jpg
 
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