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1992 Talon Tsi AWD Re-habilitation

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Nice I like the tubular setup seeing it on the car .

Boy that's what I was thinking, "NICE"!!!!
Well being further down the line I would think you wouldn't burn through them as fast and it looks like a handy spot. From the graph it looks like she is running pretty good, does it feel good?
 
Feels real nice Marty, however I don't stay in it really long enough to tell, its a bit scary, but yours is more powerful than mine. So that's just preaching to the choir :p

Anyway, decided to also pull the plugs and see how they looked, and time for a WTF moment:

KLucBR0h.jpg


One of these things is not like the other....... it appears i had 3 BR7ES and 1 BPR7ES in there. Not sure how the heck I missed that, and I've been running like this for a year now. That aside, plugs look relatively nice. Gapped a new set of 4 BPR7ES and installed. Now to re-calibrate the o2, just because, and go tune idle.
 
Anyway, decided to also pull the plugs and see how they looked, and time for a WTF moment.

Well that's interesting haha. I did a job for a freind with a legacy gt recently, complaining of multiple misfires, super rich and crap mileage (~10mpg). Did some live data collection and it was all over the place for timing and afr. Did plugs/coils in addition to the t-belt job I was originally doing. Had that same kind of look on my face when I pulled the plugs and they were short thread. Putting still plugs in a 2.5LGT is a no-non, haha. Needless to say it ran much better after it left my place.

I like your belly pan idea :thumb: I have some corru-plast that I wanna try the same kind of thing with on my car.

Fun discovery tho! Love the car t-money
 
That "p" plug is nice and clean. It wasn't too hot was it? Doesn't look like it so that's good. I run the plain 7's right now. I used 8's for a short time but No noticeable difference. They stay'd clean though. I went out and stirred things up tonight too. I just love driving the car after so much work as I know you all know too! Had fun with a new GTO. Hahaha
 
04/17/16:
Tuesday I went to another car meet, still driving around a little before-hand and getting in a WOT tuning pull or two. At 30% duty cycle, the car spools up to 33psi, then levels off to 28psi. I really just want it to go to 28psi and stay there, so I dropped the duty down to 20% while tuned for that 30% spike.

Wednesday night I took the car to get gas, gave it a little 3rd gear WOT on the way back and blew off a bunch of vacuum hoses. Then while I was working on that, I tried to make the wire spades at the coolant temp sensors a little tighter, ended up breaking the tab off the needle gauge sensor.

Picked up a new sensor Thursday morning at pep boys, came home after work and installed that, fixed the hoses, and now we're on to Friday. Decided I'd hit the track, for the first time ever, in a 5spd AWD car, along with my buddy Scott (evo8) as photographer, and Geoff (Golf R) who wanted to run his car too.

Fw9mTkAh.jpg


Got 3 runs in, all were terrible. Learned a lot of things that have to be done on the 1/4 with this car, so I'll go back soon. Best time? A whopping 14.7 @ 106. Remember that dsm I had about 12 years ago? That was fwd, and I pulled a 12.7 @ 113 with that on slicks, with a best mph of 115. I know this current car has way more power, so to be continued....

pgoBSeMh.jpg
 
09/11/2016:
She's finally cooling down a touch. Yesterday braved the 100F feels-like temps and drove to philly for MoD2016. Water temps weren't a problem on the drive, but oil temps got up there, figure mid 200F's after cruising at 60-65 for a half hour. Winter project will be the oil cooler. But, to prep for mod, took the cloth seats out, and put the 1g leathers I had redone in, and fabric sprayed the floor mats black:

http://i.imgur.com/rLeb95bh.jpg
rLeb95bh.jpg


here's an after/before pic of the mats.

seats installed:

9CNUUL7h.jpg


6H4lDEeh.jpg


I think they're great. However, the rest of the grey interior now pales in comparison. So this winter I might just black out the floor carpet, the center console sides, and cargo panel too.
If I really want to get carried away, I'll do the interior plastics, just not sure on that one yet.

And since today is 1000x nicer, weather-wise, than yesterday, wife and I assembled the fleet and gave them a bath:

q3BFgkqh.jpg


lNSQhIIh.jpg
 
Here's some various photographer's pics from MoD yesterday:

YfRTm1sh.jpg


eiuJA8qh.jpg


LL3ZXfdh.jpg


KNFf98ah.jpg


tPy14bth.jpg


vrdpXuth.jpg


2q77kbGh.jpg


J469BxAh.jpg
 
@tmoney20g Firstly I have to say what an awesome build. So much work and such an outstanding and very polished final product.

In regards to your SCG-1: I have an Innovate LC-1 WB O2 that used to do the exact same thing. Cycle power/go lean/etc. It would be fine for a few months and then suddenly do it again and again for weeks on end. What is causing it is PID windup. It has to do with the PID equation that Innovate's was using in their firmware. As a mech eng I'm sure you remember the Control class and PID equations and if you have one of your PID values wrong (don't remeber which one as it was a while ago now) will cause the PID equation to become unstable and oscillate. Anyways, that's what happened in my LC-1. I contacted them and they told me what I am now passing on. All you need to do is do a firmware upgrade on your Innovate stuff and it will solve the SCG-1 power cycling problem.

Also, I read earlier that you are aiming to get 28psi across the board...I do not think you can do this with the SCG-1. It sounds like with the SCG-1 you just set the duty to whatever value and it keeps it at that. If that's the case then the duty is the same across the board. DSMLink does a much better job of boost control using a cheap Ingersoll Rand solenoid. It will change the duty by RPM (and gear if you want) so that you can have low duty when the boost spikes at XXXX RPM and then increase the duty after that to keep the boost levels up. I managed to squeze 22 psi out of my 14B and it would taper down to 19 psi by 7500 RPM. Just a thought...but the boost control is very very good in Link.
 
@kmetiuk very nice post! I solved the power cycling issue, not by upgrading firmware, which I guess can't hurt doing, but by moving the o2 back to where they suggest it in the manual (and also running the two gauges off of a relay for direct battery power). I think the tubular o2 I have doesn't "funnel" all the heat to the exhaust like a cast iron piece would, and would just get too hot, and fried the o2 sensor. Since moving it to the downpipe, haven't had an issue.

The scg-1 comes with the mac solenoid, which is probably coming out of the same plant in taiwan or whatever that the IR comes from, they just put a different sticker on the front. While there's no doubt the control in link is probably better for this application, I was just trying to get it to work with the gauge first. Pretty sure one of my problems is that the wastegate only has a 12-13psi spring set in there, and I require more. Rule of thumb is at least half of the boost you intend to run, so I'm thinking, at a minimum, I should have the single large blue, which is 14.5 psi. I just never opened the Tial to verify what is actually in there.
 
Those seats are S W E E T. The floor mats turned out very nice too! Glad to see you have her out and displaying her. The boys and I took ours to a show this last weekend and represented DSM's (a lot of people were wondering what kind of cars they were since it was a muscle car meet generally). Keep up the good work man!!!
 
11/19/16:
Haven't really touched the car in 1-2 months, she just sleeps in the garage. But in the event I wanted to fire her up and go for a spin, it always bugged me that the old-school fuel systems didn't have check valves, nor did the aftermarket fuel pumps. Our ecu also doesn't prime the fuel pump on key-on .... (I've been asking ECMTuning to add that option, much like we have the option to run the pump by itself). Every late model car prime's the fuel pump on key-on, i don't know why ours don't.

So on any "cold" start, I'd always have zero fuel pressure until it cranked for a little bit. I wanted to remedy that situation. I had 2 choices, a new fuel filter with integrated check valve, or just a 6an check valve on the fuel line. I went with the cheaper, easier option, which was just the check valve, from Vibrant at Jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performance/231/11116/10002/-1

And here is some video:
 
I would think you need two check valves to not lose pressure. if the pump doesn't have a check valve the one check valve isn't going to help because the pressure is just going to release back through the pump when it's turned off.
 
@Kapok6, no the idea is to keep pressure just in the rail, so between the check valve and the afpr diaphragm. Once the engine is cranking and the pump is on, fuel and fuel pressure will fill everything else in the blink of an eye. I just wanted the pressure in the rail before I start to crank.

Doesn't matter anyway, I checked it a few hours later and guess what, 0 psi. So it must leak out of the AFPR anyway.
 
@GST with PSI Brett! I see you took a liking to Martin (black 2g with green turbo) and Louie's (2g awd spyder) cars too :)

I loved that old school car, talked to that guy for a bit, great build.
 
Awww Tony.....I am sad.
I hope her memories last your lifetime amd that they are good!
I sure do appreciate all of your help over the years! Don't be a stranger :)
Marty
 
Small world....

In 1996 I purchased this very car here in Iowa from a local Chevrolet dealership (I was the 2nd owner). In 1999 I sold it to a guy who lived in Delaware (I still have the bill of sale with his name and signature). He rode AMTRAK out here to Iowa and drove it back east. Never heard from him again.

Was digging thru some old paper files this morning and found some paperwork and the VIN. Did a Google search on the VIN and found this site. THAT'S MY CAR!!! :- )

This was my 2nd DSM -- had a '90 Laser RS 2.0 5 speed NA before this one.



So last summer I found a torquise 92 talon awd in Delaware. 222,000 miles or so, had some mods done already, but the owner passed away due to cancer back in 2011 (I think). His wife held on to the car for a couple years and finally decided to sell it. It has now become my 15th (or so) lifetime DSM. Included with the car was a huge folder of stuff, all his receipts, another Haynes manual for me, and other various paperwork from oil changes and stuff. Its nice when a car comes with records.

 
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