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17" wheels for road racing.

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Suparata

DSM Wiseman
458
13
Jan 18, 2003
Chicago, Illinois
The has been a lot of talk about what and what not on the subject so here is what I think about it.
What are we looking to get in a wheel? They need to be wide enough to accommodate the tires we have in mind, have enough clearance for the brake system, have the correct offset yet be brakes friendly without having the tires stick out of the car a mile, they need to be hub-centric, be as light and as strong possible and of course the least expensive possible.
Unfortunately as very often in life you can’t have everything so we have to choose something that will give us the closest to what we need.
Wheel width.
If you are serious about racing the car you will need 17”x9” wheels so you can run a 255/40/17 tire or even 275/40/17 at some point. Personally I would try to stay with 255 but you never know. And that is the point: you never know so why don’t you get the wheels that will allow you to make choices and not throw away your money on something that won’t work.
If you think you will never get to that level of racing, don’t want to do any “fender work” but you would still like to use some bigger brakes, wider tire on a good looking wheel just stay with a 17x8 and live with your decision. It is not a bad choice but it does have its limits. Yet you would still be far better than a lot of other IF you get the right wheel. Remember not all 17’sx8” are brakes friendly.

Brakes clearance
We need wheels that are designed for bigger brakes with good air flow through them. We also have FWD platforms and things are tight especially in the front so what can we put on that will clear the brakes AND tuck underneath the fenders?

Offset.
17x9 needs probably a maximum of +30mm offset, at least on a 1G. That would allow you to use even the 275 tires without hitting the frame at maximum steering input.
Greg needs +24 because he already flared the fenders but others might not need to go that much out. Now remember not all wheels that have the correct offset will clear the brakes too.

Hub centric wheels.
I probably don’t need to emphasize how important that is. But who’s going to make a custom wheel for us that will have the center at 67.1mm? Not too many wheels manufacturers, that’s for sure. At least not for a reasonable price.

Light AND strong.
Now that’s not easy to be done at a decent price. And not with spokes that arch quite a bit to clear the brakes and fit a FWD platform. So we might need to compromise on the weigh to get a strong enough wheel, again for a decent price. But what’s strong enough? Well if it’s strong and light enough for European and British Touring Car Championships, it is good enough for me. And how much weight are we talking about after all? Just a few pounds. What can I say?

Bottom line is I’m no expert in wheels so I have to go with what works for real racing, use my common sense that there is a reason for everything and nobody would use heavier wheels than needed when trying to win a tough championship. I’m not rich either so I am happy to get such a good product at a reasonable price. So I made my choice. I like how the wheels look, they will clear the biggest brakes I can put in there, they will have good airflow through them and I won’t have to rob a bank to get the right thing.
 
Feel free to let us know your choice :)

Are you sure that a 17x9 with 275 in tires would be better than a narrower tire with more camber?
With 275 or even 255 the suspension must be a bit higher or quite a lot of fender rolling or even custom fenders. Just wondering if the trade in contact patch would be equivalent to the advantage of camber and a bit more narrow...
 
I agree with the idea above. If you are thinking of 275/40/17, then I'd go straight to 285/30/18. More room for brakes and keeping them cool, too.

- Jtoby
 
jtmcinder said:
More room for brakes and keeping them cool, too.- Jtoby

This is a biggy for me personally. I've found that with custom super light weight wheels they have to add so much structural material at the hub and connecting surfaces to the shell of the wheel that there's almost zero air flow. Brake ducting suffers as air is repelled backwards having little to no effect on cooling the rotor...
 
Suparata said:
These wheels. They have more than enough room for brakes.
I want 17" wheels and preffer 255/40/17 tires which is as close as you can get to factory diameter.
Those wheels rule!:rocks: How many$$? Do the sizes you are suggesting fit on an unmolested/subtly molested 1g? And for the style concious dork in me, what colors are available?:p
 
FWIW, the 1G is far more "brake challenged" when it comes to the BBK than the 2G car. This is because the 2G is able to be packaged inboard more without contacting the ball joint or lower control arm.

Remember that the wheel shown appears to have a nice sice cone to the middle and create a nice pocket for the caliper however this changes when the wheel offset mill work is done. Don't be fooled by one pic without measuring for clearance. From the hub face to the spokes as shown here:http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/wheel_fit.html Then verify with your suppier the clearance that manufacture needs for their kit.
 
Todd TCE said:
FWIW, the 1G is far more "brake challenged" when it comes to the BBK than the 2G car. This is because the 2G is able to be packaged inboard more without contacting the ball joint or lower control arm.

Remember that the wheel shown appears to have a nice sice cone to the middle and create a nice pocket for the caliper however this changes when the wheel offset mill work is done. Don't be fooled by one pic without measuring for clearance. From the hub face to the spokes as shown here:http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/wheel_fit.html Then verify with your suppier the clearance that manufacture needs for their kit.
There's a ton of room. Todd, check your email.
Thanks.
 
Todd TCE said:
FWIW, the 1G is far more "brake challenged" when it comes to the BBK than the 2G car. This is because the 2G is able to be packaged inboard more without contacting the ball joint or lower control arm.

Remember that the wheel shown appears to have a nice sice cone to the middle and create a nice pocket for the caliper however this changes when the wheel offset mill work is done. Don't be fooled by one pic without measuring for clearance. From the hub face to the spokes as shown here:http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/wheel_fit.html Then verify with your suppier the clearance that manufacture needs for their kit.
I just measured, again. I need 1.6+" to clear without spacers. Suparata, I've got coilovers, plenty of clearance there, looks like the next clearance point may be the rear trailing arms, I can find a way to clearance them too.
 
At 4in from the center of the wheel we have 1.7” (43mm), at 5in from the center there is1.97” (50mm), 6in has 2” (52mm) and at 7in we have 2.125” (54mm) room.
All these at +30mm offset.
 
Suparata said:
At 4in from the center of the wheel we have 1.7" (43mm), at 5in from the center there is1.97" (50mm), 6in has 2" (52mm) and at 7in we have 2.125" (54mm) room.
All these at +30mm offset.
That is plenty, thanks for doing the legwork on the measuring. I'm actually running an unusually clearance hogging set up too! Are you thinking about a "group buy?" I'll need to start saving my pennies now. I was just paging & found that they are available in bronze too, or is that a different wheel? (vvvv I've got your kit)
 
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Looking at the pdf the wheel appears to offer exceptional caliper clearance. This should be good news for anyone looking at BBKs- mine or any others.
 
underradar92 said:
That is plenty, thanks for doing the legwork on the measuring. I'm actually running an unusually clearance hogging set up too! Are you thinking about a "gruop buy?" I'll need to start saving my pennies now. I was just paging & found that they are available in bronze too, or is that a different wheel?
Where did you see it in bronze?
 
This all seems like 1g's here.. I have a 2G but I'm facing the same stuff with what my plans are. The RO_JA perfect fit system says that 18x8 and 18x10's will fit. And I just dont know. I've done the measureing to the closest I could possibly think, and it looks pretty damn close. But the inner part of the wheel well on the upper arm on the spindle just scares me shoving a 10" wide tire inside there.

Right now I have a set of 17x7" OEM Chyrsler Sebring V6 Wheels with 50 series tires... which they are firestone so they suck... but I can still compensate. Going into heavy turns at high speeds, the car slides... nothing too dangerous... You can just hear one side or the other squeeling.

I also have a set of RS-GT 17x8" Wheels with 45 or 40's... I can't remember... cornering on these are fenominal! The grip is slightly better but you can still hear squeeling from the tires.

The sebring wheels and tires are good for open wide fast turns... but not good for small 90 degree corners. The car just slides like no other!
 
InfiniteGSX said:
This all seems like 1g's here.. I have a 2G but I'm facing the same stuff with what my plans are. The RO_JA perfect fit system says that 18x8 and 18x10's will fit. And I just dont know. I've done the measureing to the closest I could possibly think, and it looks pretty damn close. But the inner part of the wheel well on the upper arm on the spindle just scares me shoving a 10" wide tire inside there.

Right now I have a set of 17x7" OEM Chyrsler Sebring V6 Wheels with 50 series tires... which they are firestone so they suck... but I can still compensate. Going into heavy turns at high speeds, the car slides... nothing too dangerous... You can just hear one side or the other squeeling.

I also have a set of RS-GT 17x8" Wheels with 45 or 40's... I can't remember... cornering on these are fenominal! The grip is slightly better but you can still hear squeeling from the tires.

The sebring wheels and tires are good for open wide fast turns... but not good for small 90 degree corners. The car just slides like no other!
On 2G’s 17x9 with 35mm is tight so anything less than that will work fine with 255/40/17. Check this http://martincheck.com/wheel_tire_fitment_FAQ.html
 
Okay Mitch, you got me thinking now. You've done a great deal of legwork here. I haven't ordered any wheels yet so maybe I'll keep thinking things over. PM me details about availability. I need some wheels before July 15th.

I was dead set on 17x8.5 with a 235/40 tire since that seemed like the best bet as far as widest wheel/tire that will still fit inside the fender. Are you sure that a 17x9 with a 255/40 will fit inside the fender? Or will I have to raise the car up a little and get higher spring rates to keep the fender from coming down on top of the tire due to them sticking out? Or do fender flares like Greg C.
 
Anything over 8" wide requires some fender work to do it properly. Trying to get around that is out of the question. Raising the car is a big NO-NO in my book.

The first time Greg flared the fenders he used a baseball bat so its not something hard to do. You need to get it out of your head that you can be competitive with something that will fit inside the stock body. It just does not work that way.

Team Dynamics needs 10 days to make the wheels to our specs and they also need to cross the big pond so July 15 is not realistic. I am trying to get all the orders in before the next shipment which should be coming towards August.
As far as prices goes things are looking better and better with the response we got so Im confident we will get a good price for a basically custom wheel.
Team Dynamics cater to racing series and thats why they try to accommodate each application. They also want to promote their wheels in racing in the US so we have a good chance here.
 
While you're at it Mitch, have your offshore source cast up some revised spindles so all of this becomes moot. With another inch and a half or so inboard, none of this would matter as much. ;)

From DSM.org:

RM Racing Limited​
15651 North 83rd Way #2​
Scottsdale, Arizona 85260 US​
Phone: 602-483-2444 FAX: 602-483-2052​
The original manufacturer of race tuned 2G DSM Stabilizer bars (the ones that actually fit and work). Coming in early 1999, 2G chin spoilers, and Super Spindles which allow nine to ten inch wide wheels on 2G DSMs.
 
How about if you could fit a 355x32mm or in other words 14" brakes under these wheels? I'm talking about the biggest kit Stoptech makes for an EVO.
What do you think Todd? Are you going to make an even bigger kit for these cars if that's true?
 
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Suparata said:
How about if you could fit a 355x32mm or in other words 14" brakes under these wheels? I'm talking about the biggest kit Stoptech makes for an EVO.
What do you think Todd? Are you going to make an even bigger kit for these cars if that's true?
I think Todd's reply would be "how many DSMers will actually buy that kit?".
 
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Ludachris said:
I think Todd's reply would be "how many DSMers will actually buy that kit?".
Not too many, I'm sure but somebody will if he can and a lot of EVO guys would too.
EVO could use either the 17x8 or the 17x9 Brit wheels and go with the 355mm brake kit from Stoptech. "How cool is that" like a good friend of mine says.
 
Regarding the martin check page, he is using 17x9, even 17x10 with huge 275/40/17 tires an a stock height suspension? He's using the same GC/Konis combo as mine and no more spring than mine... Does'nt seem that the fenders are custom made but surely a lot of rolling.
I'm searching also for a 17x9 option.
 
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