Road Racing Brakes

[Poloturbo]

What is your experience about those kits?

What do you prefer? Any damage or issues with some kits?

I need the BEST stiffest upgrade for the price. I will Road race a lot more in the coming year and hope to get a good reliable high performance kit.
Already spoke with Todd of TCE an thinking of getting a RR kit.
Any problems with thoses calipers?

Does somebody RR with theses and brakes with 120-130 mph speeds as a factor.

Baer?
Wilwood?
Stoptech?
Any of theses?

 

[PaleDSM]

I only have experience with the stock brakes and the TCE kit with the optional BSL6 calipers.

Stock....lots of fade after a few hard threshhold stops. Never did try a really aggressive pad though. I had a caliper lock up so I just tossed them in favor of the TCEs.

TCE with Q pads are awesome. Haven't had them fade yet on me. I haven't had the chance to really push them hard though. I lost my license over the summer so I didn't get the chance to hit up Pocono. Very aggressive canyon carving shows incredible improvements in braking and repeatablilty. The FSLs were known to flex because of their design. After speaking with Todd I went with the pricier BSL-6s because of this. I haven't experienced any of the flex that I have read about with other calipers.

Here is what i am running right now.

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[Poloturbo]

Thanks for the info. Very appreciated.

With almost 15 days of hard lapping this summer my upgrades where limited to 4 powerslots OEM sizes rotors with Hawk HP+ pads front, EBC green pads rear, stainless steel lines at 4 corners, Motul RBF 600 oil. THe 4 powerslots rotors became so hot that they formed little cracks everywhere. The Hawk HP + is not a bad upgrade but not hard core racing material. No fade but burning rotors because of the small diameters of the rotors. I need something bigger for this kind of heat and I want a significant improvement of the distance in the braking zone.
To bad my brother in law got before me the Baer Pro 4 pistons upgrade for a VERY good price.

 

[Todd TCE]

Actually it was the BSL, open bridge, light weight caliper folks found not to their liking.
NOT the FSL which is closed bridge design.

Sixes are nice if you have room. The narrow body six is not what I'd like for the track however due to its lighter construction and thinner pad.

And for the record; the other kits are fine as well. Depends a lot on your budget, wheels, and cost of related parts; i.e. pad options or spare rotors.

 

[2-0turbo]

What is your experience about those kits?

What do you prefer? Any damage or issues with some kits?

I need the BEST stiffest upgrade for the price. I will Road race a lot more in the coming year and hope to get a good reliable high performance kit.
Already spoke with Todd of TCE an thinking of getting a RR kit.
Any problems with thoses calipers?

Does somebody RR with theses and brakes with 120-130 mph speeds as a factor.

Baer?
Wilwood?
Stoptech?
Any of theses?

See the following thread I replyed to a while back:

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43507

I use Baer and highly recommend them. I would love to try Stoptech sometime, but they are more expensive than the Baer's. I got mine at i-m-racing for like $750.

 

[PaleDSM]

Actually it was the BSL, open bridge, light weight caliper folks found not to their liking.
NOT the FSL which is closed bridge design.

Sixes are nice if you have room. The narrow body six is not what I'd like for the track however due to its lighter construction and thinner pad.

And for the record; the other kits are fine as well. Depends a lot on your budget, wheels, and cost of related parts; i.e. pad options or spare rotors.

Correct, sorry Todd. I realized I typed the wrong caliper after I made that post.

 

[Poloturbo]

Anybody knows what is the pistons total area on the Baers 2 pistons floating calipers and the 4 pistons FSL of TCE?

For repeated braking under hard conditions, what do you prefer...

 

[Todd TCE]

I do, I do. Pick me!

The FSLs if used with the 1.00" mc total 4.1sq"
The FSls if used with the 15/16 mc total 3.0sq"

Most use the 1.00 for its feel and also the fit of the BSL6.

The Baers can be a couple of things; 2x38 or 2x40 or 2x48 I THINK> you'll need to ask a Baer guy.

 

[Poloturbo]

Thanks Todd as always good info...

How do the FSL compare to the stock pistons area?

 

[Todd TCE]

1G: 3.5sq"

2G: 4.43 Single pot
4.47 Dual pot

Anything else?

 

[Poloturbo]

YES, .
So the stock 2G as more pistons area than the FSL, 4 pistons that is?

What would be your choice for my application. Occassional street driving, mostly track lapping 2-3 times per week.
I'm using this year 17" Rota Attack wheels, 245/40/17 Hankook Z211 R coumpound tires...

I want the hardest braking potential available that can obviously fit under 17".
I'm not speaking about normal highway or street driving but big and smaller track every week kinda sessions... Willing to sacrifice every day driving options for some intende braking advantage over the smaller cars and lightweight cars I race with.

Thanks again.


ANYBODY RR IN THIS BOARD????

 

[Todd TCE]

First; piston area alone does not make for a better or worse brake system. Much is given to the twin pot caliper as being the real deal. While it IS better for pad wear and applies more even clamp load you can see here that its ability is in fact the same. A BSL6 has a tad less too at 4.04".

Taken into account also is rotor diameter as well as pad Cf. Collectively they ALL have an impact on torque.

General rule of thumb: Larger dia rotor, less piston area, tune with pad.

For your needes you need to consider rotor as much or more than caliper. You need thermal capacity. That only comes from heavy rotors. And when combined with good pads you need to manage heat much better than the stock system allows you.

What do you need? That depends on your budget, fit and desires. Both myself, Stoptech and maybe others offer a variety of fixed, multi piston set ups with rotors of 1.10 and 1.25" width versions. On a 2G the nice thing is that you have a modest amount of room to fit all this. On a 1G you don't....

 

[Gaan]

I just bought a 1G that I'll be doing a lot of open lapping next year. I did go to an open lapping this year and ran into some issues with my Stoptech brakes. After certain corners then going into the next turn, I loose a lot of brake pedal. It almost goes to the floor.
It has DOT5 fluid, ss lines. I got advice anywhere from getting a residual pressure valve, brake booster, or just upgrading the master cylinder. Thoughts?
thanks

rt

 

[Todd TCE]

Wheel bearing.
Pad knock back from the flex.

My .02

 

[Poloturbo]

I just bought a 1G that I'll be doing a lot of open lapping next year. I did go to an open lapping this year and ran into some issues with my Stoptech brakes. After certain corners then going into the next turn, I loose a lot of brake pedal. It almost goes to the floor.
It has DOT5 fluid, ss lines. I got advice anywhere from getting a residual pressure valve, brake booster, or just upgrading the master cylinder. Thoughts?
thanks

rt

What kind of pads do you use for" track" duty?

 

[Gaan]

I believe they're Hawk racing pads but I'm swapping with what worked for me in the past: Cobalt Friction VR's.

rt

 

[Poloturbo]

First; piston area alone does not make for a better or worse brake system. Much is given to the twin pot caliper as being the real deal. While it IS better for pad wear and applies more even clamp load you can see here that its ability is in fact the same. A BSL6 has a tad less too at 4.04".

Taken into account also is rotor diameter as well as pad Cf. Collectively they ALL have an impact on torque.

General rule of thumb: Larger dia rotor, less piston area, tune with pad.

For your needes you need to consider rotor as much or more than caliper. You need thermal capacity. That only comes from heavy rotors. And when combined with good pads you need to manage heat much better than the stock system allows you.

What do you need? That depends on your budget, fit and desires. Both myself, Stoptech and maybe others offer a variety of fixed, multi piston set ups with rotors of 1.10 and 1.25" width versions. On a 2G the nice thing is that you have a modest amount of room to fit all this. On a 1G you don't....

For the FSL their is the 1.38" and 1.75" piston choices? Combine with 13"X1.10 rotors with 0.80 pads?
Does this size of a pad fit with the FSL and 1.10 rotors?
Considering the small reduction in piston area compare to stock to match the larger 13" disc do I need upgrade rears or it is in fact a kit that doen'st interfer with the bias. How would you compare the FSL to the Baer 2 pistons caliper, rigidity wise.

Other options I went through:
TWR kit, very nice kit( 4 or 6 pistons)
Rotora, No 2 piece rotors with the kit, still a bit more pricier, not much info
KVR: Ap racing is a lot of money
Stoptech: templates dowloaded, the calipers don't fit under my Rota wheels
Baer track, I don't know if I want more weight and to pay 450$ every time I want to change rotors and witrh extremely aggressive pads you change a bit more frequently.

Anybody has another option? thanks

 

[Todd TCE]

1G with 15/16MC; 1.38 bores.
Standard pad: .800"
No need for rear changes with correct 13" combo.
To a PBR; not even close, stiffer. Hands down.
ST; nice part, heavy, huge, FSL a bit narrower. (and thicker pads)