16g wastegate actuator question

[spatulahunter1]

I have recently put on a evo3 16g and now i dont seem to have anything in the way of boost control, even when the wastegate actuator is hooked up to a boost source without the mbc it still wont stop. I always let off the gas at 15 psi since i am still on the stock fuel system but i thought that it should stop before it gets that high. Isnt the wastegate on a evo 3 11-12 psi? am i wrong that hooking boost up to the wastegate without a mbc should be wastegate pressure? Ive tried running it with the MBC hooked up but all the way closed and i get the same response. The factory BCS is unhooked. I do need to tap my j pipe and put a nipple in it so i can run the MBC off of it (right now its ran off of the BOV line), is that gonna make a difference. Ive heard its right from some people but then ive heard that the BOV line is best from others.

 

[travislaw]

I have recently put on a evo3 16g and now i dont seem to have anything in the way of boost control, even when the wastegate actuator is hooked up to a boost source without the mbc it still wont stop. I always let off the gas at 15 psi since i am still on the stock fuel system but i thought that it should stop before it gets that high. Isnt the wastegate on a evo 3 11-12 psi? am i wrong that hooking boost up to the wastegate without a mbc should be wastegate pressure? Ive tried running it with the MBC hooked up but all the way closed and i get the same response. The factory BCS is unhooked. I do need to tap my j pipe and put a nipple in it so i can run the MBC off of it (right now its ran off of the BOV line), is that gonna make a difference. Ive heard its right from some people but then ive heard that the BOV line is best from others.

Do a boost leak test first. I am having the same exact problem with my evo 3 16g ported. I am getting infinite boost because of leaks all over the place. A common leak spot on those turbos is where the J-pipe meets the turbo housing. Once the leaks have been taken care of, then test the wastegate actuatuor. If you are still using the stock o2 housing, make sure your wastegate can open, if not, upgrade to the Evo III o2 housing or port your stock housing. Hope this helps you out.

 

[andymoraitis]

I agree with Travis's post above and would also recommend that you tap on the J-pipe as I've seen more accurate boost control from that location. Have a look at that actuator as well and let us know what you find.

Andy

 

[SethA]

You are correct. Hooking a boost source directly to the WGA will be the wastegate spring pressure. With a 3" exhaust my guess is you have boost creep. As the others mentioned, apply pressure to the actuator and verify that it is working. If the wastegate is working you may need to take the turbo off and port it.

Seth

 

[Maverick3169]

Sounds like your getting boost creep.

 

[spatulahunter1]

Sounds like your getting boost creep.

doesnt boost creep hit a certain point and then slowly climb from there? mine never hits a point where it slows or stops for a minute it just keeps climbing.

How does the stock housing keep the actuator from opening? Is it physically in the way or does it just not flow well enough to allow it to open?
I had planned on porting the thing when i had everything off for the install but my dad had my compressor so i couldnt run the die grinder......i really should have went to work and ported the damn thing heh.

how tight should the j pipe bolts be to the turbo? I didnt use a torque wrench to know for certian but they are pretty damned tight and i would hate to strip them out. Should i use some sort of gasket maker instead of the metal gasket that came in the kit?

sorry about all the questions but i really appreciate the help, thanks guys!

 

[travislaw]

doesnt boost creep hit a certain point and then slowly climb from there? mine never hits a point where it slows or stops for a minute it just keeps climbing.

Answer: Yes it does. Infinite boost means your boost keeps rising and rising without ever stopping.

How does the stock housing keep the actuator from opening? Is it physically in the way or does it just not flow well enough to allow it to open?
I had planned on porting the thing when i had everything off for the install but my dad had my compressor so i couldnt run the die grinder......i really should have went to work and ported the damn thing heh.

Answer: The flapper may not have enough room to fully open on the stock o2 sensor housing. Especially if you have the larger flapper.

how tight should the j pipe bolts be to the turbo? I didnt use a torque wrench to know for certian but they are pretty damned tight and i would hate to strip them out. Should i use some sort of gasket maker instead of the metal gasket that came in the kit?

Answer: I just tightened mine until they were tight and I couldn't go any further. As far as the metal gasket goes, use it. I just took mine apart tonight and put it back together and got rid of the leak. I sprayed the copper gasket spray on the turbo housing (Making sure to cover the hole going into the turbo) and then sprayed it on the j-pipe. Do a couple of layers. Then I laid the gasket on (make sure it is on right, it will only go on one way) and tightened down the bolts. No more leaks there.

When you boost leak test make sure you test at the throttle body, the intercooler, and the turbo. Tonight I found out that one of my Emissions systems hoses had a huge hole in it causing a big leak, so I fixed that. My Intercooler hose from the throttle body to the BOV pipe had a small leak I fixed. My throttle body screw (don't remember what it was called) has a nice leak coming from it, will fix later. My custom BOV flange is leaking at the weld a big leak, will have to fix later when I get some more cash.

Hope all of this helps. I can't wait until I can get these problems solved. I will say, as I have fixed each leak, my car is holding boost better, but still has problems because of the leaks.

 

[spatulahunter1]

im not sure if it was the problem or not but my wastegate arm seemed to be partially obstructed by the lower heat shield so i fixed that, i also put the nipple for the MBC coming right off of the j pipe instead of the bov.
There is currently 8 inches or so of snow on the road so i cant test to see if it fixed the problem but as soon as i know i will post and let you guys know how its doing.

thanks.

 

[nfinkbe]

I dont mean to jack this thread but I have a problem along the same lines with my 16g. I ported it and all of that fun stuff, but when it was off the car I hooked up my compressor to the actuator and when I put 15-20 psi to it the flapper would barely open. I could almost fit my index finger through. This was without the o2 housing on so I know that wasnt causing the problem. Anyways do you think that i just have a faulty actuator?

 

[MyBeatGSX]

For whatever retarded reason, MHI internal gates don't open a full 90*. More like 40* if you're lucky.

 

[nfinkbe]

Is there a way to fix this or is there a different actuator that I can buy?

 

[Ryan95tsiAWD]

Is there a way to fix this or is there a different actuator that I can buy?

You really shouldn't need to buy a new one. (I looked but never found one in my quest to solve boost creep)

In the end having the turbo housing ported right solved my problem completely and I tried EVERYTHING before that!

 

[WatchItExplode]

For whatever retarded reason, MHI internal gates don't open a full 90*. More like 40* if you're lucky.

I noticed that today too...made me wonder why people say "port behind the flapper so the wastegate can open a full 90*" when trying to solve boost creep.

So that really isn't a problem huh? It seems like allowing the wastegate to open all the way would help it flow a lot better.

 

[~laser_craver~]

I ported my turbo, and got a atmospheric dump and after all that hard work i put the cat back in and it still creeps despite my efforts.... Just not as bad....

 

[jking29]

I have heard of people cutting the actuator arm, shortening it and welding it back together to get the valve to open fully. May be something I try if I get boost creep when I put my big 16g on. I'm going to port the wastegate and 02 housing before it gets put on, so hopefully no boost creep.

 

[Ryan95tsiAWD]

I have heard of people cutting the actuator arm, shortening it and welding it back together to get the valve to open fully. May be something I try if I get boost creep when I put my big 16g on. I'm going to port the wastegate and 02 housing before it gets put on, so hopefully no boost creep.

The only way to make the flapper open further would be to have an actuator with more throw. Shortening the rod or shimming it out only serves to hold more boost when hooked directly to the actuator (it also helps if you are running a lot of boost and it won't hold to redline). I would also wait until you got the turbo and just port the o2 to match the turbo's housing. If you do get creep the only way you are going to stop it is by porting the turbo housing correctly or getting an external wastegate.

 

[jking29]

The only way to make the flapper open further would be to have an actuator with more throw. Shortening the rod or shimming it out only serves to hold more boost when hooked directly to the actuator (it also helps if you are running a lot of boost and it won't hold to redline).

I am not talking about shortening the actuator rod, I was talking about shortening the flapper arm. Sorry if I wasn't clear about that. It is a simple matter of leverage, the shorter the arm, the more it moves at the same amount of pull. Also I believe I am going to have to port the wastegate to keep my 16g from creeping, as I intend to hit the motor with a 50 or 75 wet shot.

 

[SlowChild3]

I'll be trying this, Got turbine out in 30 minutes! Your an expert after you ported more than once. . I only creep near redline, so I'm only going to shorten it 25%. Just remember the shorter it is the more torque it takes. If that don't work then I am drilling out the flapper.

 

[ShapeGSX]

Answer: The flapper may not have enough room to fully open on the stock o2 sensor housing. Especially if you have the larger flapper.

The flapper only opens about 1/4". That is all the throw that the actuator has in it.

 

[TheClaw]

I had crazy creep with my new E3B16g.. I couldn't keep it at 19psi - would keep shooting towards 30.

I had to get an external wastegate setup two days later

It's perfect now......

 

[SlowChild3]

OK! I'm excited! I shortend the flapper arm by .120, My boost stays steady at 15psi till redline! YAY.