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fwdeclipse

15+ Year Contributor
809
4
Dec 17, 2005
salt lake city, Utah
Just wondering all of you guys with 14bs how much boost can you hold to redline.I just installed my fmic and im only able to hold about 16psi.It starts to drop off at 5500rpm.Just lookin for some feedback on others.
 
Well when I had my 14b, the most i ever personally boosted was 17lbs. Don't think anything more that is worth it. But it can boost more than that.
 
Wait, if I read that correctly ^^^^^, that first guy ran 10's with a 14b!!!!WTF
 
I cant seem to hold more than 16psi of boost.I try to run 22psi,but cant hold it.I do have two cracks around the wastegate that could be doing it.
 
my boost creep keeps me at like 20 psi all the way to redline, check for leaks, ### 16 psi should be easy for a 14b, not what it drops off to at redline. btw, anyone care to help me port my turbine housing?
 
Definitely sounds like a boost leak and your turbo is working to hard. Maybe you have a cracked housing? Before my cams, I was running a 14b at 20psi and held til about 6400. After the cams, I could hold it until about redline (6900 or so) before it would drop.
 
Ok then i know ive still got a leak or something.I may take the turbo off this weekend and check for a badly cracked housing.Before i installed the fmic i could hold about 19psi.I cant seem to find anymore leaks but I will continue to look,Thanks guys for the feedback.
 
I was able to hold 21PSI to 7,200 RPM at the track on my old 14B. After many, many miles of hard running, the cracks in the turbine housing and wastegate passage got bigger and bigger. Eventually, it dropped to 15 by redline, and then finally 12. There were no other boost leaks on the car, just that the exhaust housing eventually goes out on these turbos due to the low nickel content. when I pulled the turbo, the cracks in the housing were pretty big. I had three in the wastegate passage alone. Look into a housing replacement, as the 14B wheel is an awesome choice, and a 16G housing can open the top end a little. I wish I still had mine.

Matt.
 
Enraged78 said:
I was able to hold 21PSI to 7,200 RPM at the track on my old 14B. After many, many miles of hard running, the cracks in the turbine housing and wastegate passage got bigger and bigger. Eventually, it dropped to 15 by redline, and then finally 12. There were no other boost leaks on the car, just that the exhaust housing eventually goes out on these turbos due to the low nickel content. when I pulled the turbo, the cracks in the housing were pretty big. I had three in the wastegate passage alone. Look into a housing replacement, as the 14B wheel is an awesome choice, and a 16G housing can open the top end a little. I wish I still had mine.

Matt.

Yeah I think that may be my problem as well.I cant find anymore boost leaks.When im on it hard i can hear what seems to be exhuast leaking.Im gonna take it off this weekend and take a look.Thanks for the input.
 
What your talking about is peak efficiency, you can make any turbo you want go more than its efficiency, but you'll have diminishing returns as you do so and mostly blow a lot of hot air, and have a good chance of nuking the turbo if you aren't careful. Heck you could run 20psi on a T-25, but for the most part you would just be blowing hot air into your motor.
 
chicagoboostin said:
maybe i was misinformed, but isnt the 14b only effecient to around 17psi?
On a standard 6cm housing, 100k mile 14b turbo, probably. If your turbo is in great shape and is ported to 7cm, you should have no problem running 20lbs of boost.
 
so what is the same between the 14b and the evo3 16g, compressor housing and center section? maybe I can buy a 7 cm2 housing, and an e316g compressor wheel and make my 14b almost an e316g. I plan on going much bigger later on, so I've been thinking about a used evo or some other cheap options to hold me over. upgrading to a 7 cm housing and evo wheel should show some improvements, but is it the same turbine wheel? maybe I can find an evo with a lot of shaft play without the fins screwed up and swap over everything I want from that. anyone have a blown evo3 16g for sale?
 
tstkl said:
so what is the same between the 14b and the evo3 16g, compressor housing and center section? maybe I can buy a 7 cm2 housing, and an e316g compressor wheel and make my 14b almost an e316g. I plan on going much bigger later on, so I've been thinking about a used evo or some other cheap options to hold me over. upgrading to a 7 cm housing and evo wheel should show some improvements, but is it the same turbine wheel? maybe I can find an evo with a lot of shaft play without the fins screwed up and swap over everything I want from that. anyone have a blown evo3 16g for sale?
not worth the effort. the 14b has a whole different wheel and it would just be better to pick up a good condition 16g. if you plan on going much bigger, don't even waste your money now. pick a goal, and stick to it. i was thinking about running a 16g to hold me over until i could save up enough for the real turbo, but then again, i would just be working against my goal. and i can help you with the porting if you need. i did one over the summer. but i had to borrow a friend's compressor. if you have access i have the die grinder and carbide bits. im from san ramon so im closeby.
 
Yeah i shift at 6500rpm as well.I found out my bov was leaking so i put some rtv on it and fixed it.So now the only leak i can hear is in the crankcase.I put the boost leak tester on the licp and it still does it even with the pcv blocked off.So now should i do a compression test?Is that considered a boost leak with it coming through the crankcase.My other question is do i need the motor at a certain position to do a boost leak test to prevent it from leaking into the crankcase.Im out of ideas since every leak i fix it doesnt get any better,by 5800rpms my boost falls to 15psi.This is leading me to beleive its a crack in the housing somewhere.Does this sound reasonable.
 
your valve seals can leak just like anything else. that might be why you have a leak into the crank case. or if you have bad rings youll also have a leak. engine position doesn't matter as long as your not at the few degrees where your valves overlap. the chances of that being the case is very slim, and I'm sure you would notice since It would hold practically no boost. you can try starting the engine for a second just to rotate it to another random degree and try again, but most likely its your piston rings or valve seals. do a compression test and see where you sit on that. if that turns out fine and your not leaking too much into the crank case, you should be fine.
 
Im pretty sure my compression is good the car only has 59k on it.I dont blow any smoke at all.I will do a compression test anyway.Thanks
 
i'm running 23 psi and by redline it drops to 19-20 psi. 23 holds steady until about 5k-5,500 rpm's then it slowly drops. I can get it to spike to 25 psi, but on the dyno i actually lost horsepower. I made the most running 23, which was 319.
 
Yeah I have noticed the same thing anything over 22psi and it feels slower.I just wish i could hold it better.Im gonna take the turbo off this weekend and look at the turbine housing.Great numbers I would love to make 300 on my 14b.
 
tstkl said:
so what is the same between the 14b and the evo3 16g, compressor housing and center section? maybe I can buy a 7 cm2 housing, and an e316g compressor wheel and make my 14b almost an e316g. I plan on going much bigger later on, so I've been thinking about a used evo or some other cheap options to hold me over. upgrading to a 7 cm housing and evo wheel should show some improvements, but is it the same turbine wheel? maybe I can find an evo with a lot of shaft play without the fins screwed up and swap over everything I want from that. anyone have a blown evo3 16g for sale?

The only similarity between the 14b and the evo3 16g is the TD05H turbine wheel. The compressor housing is machined for the smaller 14b compressor wheel and the turbine housing has a larger a/r ration 7 cm^ (.49) versus the stock 14b turbine housing which is 6 cm^2 (.41) See the stealth316.com Turbo Upgrade Guide for a more in depth discusion of MHI turbos.

However, since the turbos share the same turbine wheel, the turbine housings will accept either CHRA. This means that one can a bolt an evo3 16g 7 cm^2 to a 14b. All 16g turbos have the same a/r ratio and can bolt onto the 14b chra. This will net more horsepower because overal volumetric efficiency has increased. From my research on this forum, the gains have been noted to be fairly substancial even with stock cams, intake mani, etc. As always going to a higher a/r ratio always leads to more lag, but i've never heard of an evo3 16g guy complaining about lag and the 14b compressor wheel has a smaller diameter than the evo3 compressor wheel. So, in all, it would be a way to get the most out of your 14b. I've always felt that a 6 cm^2 housing is just too restrictive.
 
Ok I did a compression test and am a little worried. I got about 142 across the board.That seems low to me ecspecially since i only have 59k on the motor.Any thoughts on this.Also the car runs real strong and doesnt smoke at all.
 
142?? i wouldn't worry about it. I know someone on here that races their 91 that would kill to have 142 across the board. :thumb:
 
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