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Yeah I was just a little worried cause I see people on here posting 180s across the board and it scared me a little I guess.I ordered a e16g today I hope that will hold boost.
 
did you buy an install kit for it too? you'll need one if you still have a t-25 on your car.

nevermind....i just saw you had a ported 14b. my bad....
 
Yeah I love the 14b but I cant hold boost anymore and I cant find anymore boost leaks at all.Except through the crankcase.Are you supposed to hold 20psi solid for 30seconds on a leak test.Or 30 seconds for it to go to 0.It takes 3 minutes for my boost to leak to zero.So i figured what the hell I want more power anyway.
 
dsm-onster said:
The only similarity between the 14b and the evo3 16g is the TD05H turbine wheel. The compressor housing is machined for the smaller 14b compressor wheel and the turbine housing has a larger a/r ration 7 cm^ (.49) versus the stock 14b turbine housing which is 6 cm^2 (.41) See the stealth316.com Turbo Upgrade Guide for a more in depth discusion of MHI turbos.

However, since the turbos share the same turbine wheel, the turbine housings will accept either CHRA. This means that one can a bolt an evo3 16g 7 cm^2 to a 14b. All 16g turbos have the same a/r ratio and can bolt onto the 14b chra. This will net more horsepower because overal volumetric efficiency has increased. From my research on this forum, the gains have been noted to be fairly substancial even with stock cams, intake mani, etc. As always going to a higher a/r ratio always leads to more lag, but i've never heard of an evo3 16g guy complaining about lag and the 14b compressor wheel has a smaller diameter than the evo3 compressor wheel. So, in all, it would be a way to get the most out of your 14b. I've always felt that a 6 cm^2 housing is just too restrictive.
what about swaping the compressor wheel/housing on a 14b to that of an evo3 16g? I'm sure there aren't many differences in the chra and since the turbine wheel is the same, and I would use the turbine housing off whatever dead evo I found, that would be the only difference. are the inlet diameters different? I know the outlet is the same across the 14b,16g,19c,18g board, but what about the inlets?
 
tstkl said:
what about swaping the compressor wheel/housing on a 14b to that of an evo3 16g? I'm sure there aren't many differences in the chra and since the turbine wheel is the same, and I would use the turbine housing off whatever dead evo I found, that would be the only difference. are the inlet diameters different? I know the outlet is the same across the 14b,16g,19c,18g board, but what about the inlets?
Fro what I understand there is a difference between all 16g compressor housings and a 14b compressor housing. Being that all 16Gs have the same a/r ratio on the compressor side but the 14b has a smaller one... but please don't quote me. I do not know for sure. However, it has been my experience and has been discussed by the author of the link I previously posted that the comprssor side a/r ratio and other basic characteristics hs very little consequence on overall turbo efficiency and/or flow.

You need an evo3 compressor housing to match an evo3 comprssor wheel (or machine a 14b comprssor housing to accept the larger diameter 16g wheel).

You need a 16g turbine housing...

Any TD05H center section should work with any 14b/16g turbine/compressor housing and shaft for 16g/14b wheels. However, after you spend all the money locating the parts and assembling them to a balance (basically a turbo rebuild), you could have bought an evo3 16g for the same amount shipped.
 
dsm-onster said:
Fro what I understand there is a difference between all 16g compressor housings and a 14b compressor housing. Being that all 16Gs have the same a/r ratio on the compressor side but the 14b has a smaller one... but please don't quote me. I do not know for sure. However, it has been my experience and has been discussed by the author of the link I previously posted that the comprssor side a/r ratio and other basic characteristics hs very little consequence on overall turbo efficiency and/or flow.

You need an evo3 compressor housing to match an evo3 comprssor wheel (or machine a 14b comprssor housing to accept the larger diameter 16g wheel).

You need a 16g turbine housing...

Any TD05H center section should work with any 14b/16g turbine/compressor housing and shaft for 16g/14b wheels. However, after you spend all the money locating the parts and assembling them to a balance (basically a turbo rebuild), you could have bought an evo3 16g for the same amount shipped.
not if I find someone whos devider broke off into their turbine housing and screwed up their turbine side, and they are selling the rest of the turbo. I could buy that, sell the center section assuming thats good, and then buy a used 7cm^2 turbine housing and be done with it. anyone else agree/ever tried this? also, If I do the compressor housing before the compressor wheel, I can do it one at a time. the only thing i would have to buy at the same time would be the rebuild kit and the compressor wheel. hehehehehehehehe:D
 
tstkl said:
not if I find someone whos devider broke off into their turbine housing and screwed up their turbine side, and they are selling the rest of the turbo. I could buy that, sell the center section assuming thats good, and then buy a used 7cm^2 turbine housing and be done with it. anyone else agree/ever tried this? also, If I do the compressor housing before the compressor wheel, I can do it one at a time. the only thing i would have to buy at the same time would be the rebuild kit and the compressor wheel. hehehehehehehehe:D

Why sell the center section. So you're sayign that you can get a EVO3 16g with a damaged turbine wheel, right? If the compressor wheel/housing is fine and the center housing is fine and the turbine housing is fine, then just get a turbine wheel from a 14b (TD05H, same as evo3, except the evo is made from inconel which is a little bit lighter.), install, and balance the whole assembly for cheap.:confused:

If you're going combine a compressor wheel from one turbo with a turbine wheel form another, always get the whole assembly balanced after assembly... about $50 plus shipping but worth it if you can get the turbo parts for super cheap.
 
hmmm... i dunno if im odd or what, but my 14b will hold boost til redline no matter what it's set at.. i have it at 15psi and it holds til redline... when i messed up and fixed my boost leak and had the controller set too hight it held 22psi to redline LOL. Then again, even my old 14b held 18 to redline no problem as well with 140K miles on it right before it seized. I've never had a problem with boost trailing off.
 
foreverinvayne said:
hmmm... i dunno if im odd or what, but my 14b will hold boost til redline no matter what it's set at.. i have it at 15psi and it holds til redline... when i messed up and fixed my boost leak and had the controller set too hight it held 22psi to redline LOL. Then again, even my old 14b held 18 to redline no problem as well with 140K miles on it right before it seized. I've never had a problem with boost trailing off.

Cams are the difference maker here. If you engine can consume more air (hot cams lager displacement, SMIM), then it will take more air from the intake mani than the 14b can supply to maintain what ever peak boost you may be running.
 
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