14b IDC's??

[screwdgie]

To those of you still running the 14b on your 1g, what kind of injector duty cycles are you seeing??

The reason I ask is because I just installed my 190 walbro, and even at 15 psi at like 5500 rpm full throttle, I have seen my IDC's as high as 131%??

I checked for boost leaks and did not find any. Could my injectors just be dirty/old??
I really can't afford to get some 550s+safc yet either.

If anyone could give me some input that would be great.

Thanks,
Shane

 

[weith1111]

Check for boost leaks again, use soapy water. On 15psi you should be around 90% tops. I was at 17psi on a s16g stock fuel system, and under 100% IDC.

Are you sure you aren't looking at fuel trims? Just asking

edit: the reason I say boost leaks is depending where you tapped for your gauge, you may be seeing 15psi at your gauge, but the turbo could be pushing 20.

 

[tstkl]

at 20-21 psi I see 94.5% with 450cc injectors.

MY BAD

won't be going wot much until I get some money for dsmlink and some 1000cc injectors. problem, SOLVED

 

[screwdgie]

I tapped my boost gauge at the line by the fuel pressure solenoid. And even when i was on 10 psi, my IDC's were still too high.

I did a boost leak test about a month ago, and found two leaks, the bov flange, and the upper outlet of my intercooler. I fixed those, and still had high IDC's. I did a boost leak test last weekend and found nothing, and I even used soapy water to find any sneaky ones .

And no, I'm not looking at fuel trims . BTW, my trims are at low-139, mid-109, high-109.

Isn't there some leaks that are not easily detected? Like pcv valve or crankcase breather or something?

On a side note, Today I found a gas station near me that sells 100 octane, so for the hell of it I bought some. At the moment I have a 50/50 mix of 100-93 octane. The car feels much smoother and more powerful. I also have a boost creep problem too (did some porting this weekend and it didn't help ) But before I would creep from 10-about 18 psi and would see like 20-25 knock after the boost gets up there. Now I see virtually no knock Up until I hit fuel cut because my damn injectors are maxed out! But now my clutch slips bc it can't hold the power .
Thanks for the input.

Edit-Could having low fuel pressure cause high IDC's?? If so, how can I increase my fuel pressure without getting an AFPR?

 

[dsm-onster]

running a really lean low fuel trim of 139% where you're in vacuum practically all the time and then getting high injecotr dutycycles at just 10 psi is a dead give-a-way that you still have a decent boost leak somewhere. I'd run another boost leak test.

 

[screwdgie]

Thats just the thing, I have done several leak tests and found nothing. When pressurized, it holds the pressure fairly well, and I dont hear any leaks, let alone see any when using soapy water.

It's also a pain in the ass for me to do boost leak tests all the time bc the uicp and intake pipe I have make it very difficult and aggravating to get the filter out and the pipe off the turbo, since everything is so tight in there. I may go back to the stock intake pipe and see if its any better.....

Are there any places where I can be leaking that are hard to find??

 

[steve]

Could my injectors just be dirty/old??

While old dirty injectors might have some noticable effect on fuel trims they won't have much (131%) effect on IDCs. The biggest factor on IDCs is MAF HZ. From the Airflow/rev the ECU will compute how much fuel is needed and come up with a pulse width to get that amount of fuel based on the stock injector size and base pressure.

Steve

 

[screwdgie]

Looking at a log I took tonight, my airflow is maxed out on the logger at 1606Hz just about when the IDC gets real high.

What can I do to adjust the MAF HZ to keep from running my injectors too much?

I have hacked the maf by taking out the lower honeycomb and backing out the screw already. Is there anything else I can do to help it?

 

[compression]

Looking at a log I took tonight, my airflow is maxed out on the logger at 1606Hz just about when the IDC gets real high.

What can I do to adjust the MAF HZ to keep from running my injectors too much?

I have hacked the maf by taking out the lower honeycomb and backing out the screw already. Is there anything else I can do to help it?

i can suggest that you disconnect the hose to the pvc valve and block it off and try again , because i had a problem like this in the past and it turned out to be a bad pvc valve.

and the max the logger can read is 1606hz,

 

[screwdgie]

How will I be able to tell if its a bad pcv valve?

You're saying I disconnect the hose to the pcv and block off the end of the hose?? How will that tell me if i have a bad pcv valve?

Thanks,
Shane

 

[steve]

What you do is run a "boost leak" test. This is where you pressurize the intake to make sure that all the air is going to the engine. Anything leaking will raise your IDC over what it should be.

If it's not leaking then you have two choices to reduce the IDC, turn down the boost or get bigger injectors and retune the car.

Steve

 

[screwdgie]

Lol I know what a boost leak test is, I have done several lately and can't find anything.

I can turn the boost down, but I have a boost creep problem (will creep to 18-19 psi if i stay on it), and I ported the turbo/wastegate/o2 housing this weekend and that didn't help for sh!t.

I would like to get some new injectors, but can't really afford them or anything to tune them with. Would my car run ok if i dropped some 550's in w/o using an safc?? I know it would run a little rich, but it should still run decent right?

 

[Ultimatedsm]

You will run overly rich and probably will do more damage. For example, with all the extra fuel getting dumped in your cylinders, it will slip through the rings and contaminate your oil reducing its viscosity factors. Gasoline is a good oil remover, you don't want gasoline removing the oil off your cylinder walls. You said you have a boost creep problem, hmmmm...You shouldn't be going that high with the stock 14B, I have a feeling your flapper isn't closing properly. Check if hte flapper has been pushed out a little or if the flapper is off-centered. The samething happend to me, and my boost would go as high as 17 psi when I set it at 12.

 

[dsm-onster]

Lol I know what a boost leak test is, I have done several lately and can't find anything.

I can turn the boost down, but I have a boost creep problem (will creep to 18-19 psi if i stay on it), and I ported the turbo/wastegate/o2 housing this weekend and that didn't help for sh!t.
I would like to get some new injectors, but can't really afford them or anything to tune them with. Would my car run ok if i dropped some 550's in w/o using an safc?? I know it would run a little rich, but it should still run decent right?

Wait. So you turn your boost up to 15 psi and it doesn't creap? Are you controling boost w/ an adjustable wastegate arm? or MBC? Are you sure you're not getting creap when running 15 psi? Are you using an aftermarket boostguage? How high did you pressurize your intake when you did the boost leak test?

 

[screwdgie]

no i still get creep no matter what I set the boost at. I haven an autometer boost gauge.

when I ported it this weekend, the flapper seemed to close fine. How can I adjust the flapper?

 

[Ultimatedsm]

You can't really adjust it, you have to see if the flapper inside the housing is off-centered or any cracks in there. Sometimes the flapper is pushed out more then usual which will cause it not to close properly. You shouldn't get boost creap on a 14B specially not to 18 psi. Do a drive test:

Shift really quickly when shifting and punch it to the floor each time, when you are doing this, let me know if you notice a lot of lag inbetween quick WOT shifts.

 

[screwdgie]

So I should pretty much just give it hell like i would at the track?? It's kind of hard to do because my clutch is slipping.
But I have noticed lately that I have an unusually large amount of turbo lag.

A month or 2 back I had my exhaust housing replaced because there were cracks in the housing. At least thats what DEVO tuning told me. I don't know how this one compares to that one but I do seem to have much more turbo lag then before. When I took my turbo off to port it this weekend, i noticed it did have a few cracks in that ring-thing where the flapper sits in the housing.

 

[dsm-onster]

No matter where you "set" your boost at, if you're getting creap to 18 psi, then you're running 18psi. 18psi + 450cc = very, very high IDCs which will wear out your injectors quickly. And your 14b.

Fix the creap or get 550s + piggly back.

 

[screwdgie]

I know my boost creep will hurt my IDC's, yet before I had a creep problem, my idc's were at like 102-105 at 15 psi, which was still too high.

I am really pisssed tho, i dont know what to do to get rid of my creep anymore. I may just have to go to an external dump. Anyone know of an external dumped o2 housing that will fit onto a downpipe that was made for an evo 3??

 

[steve]

Have you made sure that your wastegate actuator actually opens the wastegate?

Steve

 

[Ryan95tsiAWD]

Have you made sure that your wastegate actuator actually opens the wastegate?

Steve

I agree...take the wastegate actuator arm off completely, that way the flapper "should" open as soon as boost flows into it. See what boost it goes to after that and see what your IDCs are. It still sounds like you have a boost leak if at rock steady 15psi you are over 100%. BTW, what kind of housing did you get...a replacement 6 or 7cm?

 

[shortydtp]

i will say to reset you ecu because when your trims gets to 139. they like to stay there for days even if you make chages that migh bring it down.

 

[xcelr8n]

Whats your knocksum like? I gotta imagine your knocking if your injectors are running 130%... And, whats your timing curve like at WOT...

 

[screwdgie]

Well i don't have much of a knock problem at the moment, because I found a gas station around here that sells 100 octane, so I decided to buy some and try it. So with the "race gas" I have maybe 5-6 counts of knock by redline. If I can even reach redline, either my clutch will slip or I'll hit fuel cut . My timing looks fine with the race gas in. Im at like 15ish by redline if i remember correctly.

The housing that was replaced is just a used 6cm, that I somewhat ported this weekend.

I am pretty sure my wastegate actuator actually opens the wastegate because like 2 weeks ago I tested it with some air from my compressor and it opened normally.

If I run with the wastegate arm disconnected, I shouldn't be able to build much boost if everything is normal, correct?