140k maintinence questions

[DeNoZZo]

I just got my first dsm a few days ago, and had a few questions about what things need to be replaced. I already tried searching, but I want answers more specific to my situation.
Ok the car is a 95 eagle talon tsi awd with 140k miles and has no major problems other than the rear passenger side wheel bearing needs to be replaced (i think, it makes a rock tumbling noise when i'm driving). It is a 7 bolt motor, and doesn't show any signs of crankwalk to my knowledge. But is this something to worry about, or would it have already happened by now if it was going to.
The car has had a lot of owner and apperantly has been kept up. The guy that i bought it from said the oil was changed less than 500 miles ago. I looked at the dipstick and the oil was maybe 1/2 an inch past the second notch. Is this too much oil, and is it going to cause damage? He also had three belts replaced, but not the timing belt. He did not know when the timing belt or balance shaft belt was replaced. Is it possible for me to change that myself in one weekend day? And what exactly are the tools/parts that I need with the prices. I have heard that while i'm in there I should replace some other parts and wanted to know what was involved. On to the wheel bearing. I need to know what you guys think the rock tumbling sound is. I'm guessing its the bearing, but i don't know. Again, I need to know what parts I need and how much they cost.
If there are any other things that should be looked at or changed at this point, I need to know. Thanks for helping guys!

 

[Lofty]

It is a 7 bolt motor, and doesn't show any signs of crankwalk to my knowledge. But is this something to worry about, or would it have already happened by now if it was going to.

Crank walk isn't something that is undetected. It will make a knocky vibraty noise, so if it hasn't yet, I wouldn't worry about it.

The car has had a lot of owner and apperantly has been kept up. The guy that i bought it from said the oil was changed less than 500 miles ago. I looked at the dipstick and the oil was maybe 1/2 an inch past the second notch. Is this too much oil, and is it going to cause damage?

A little extra oil probably won't hurt


I just bought a 1g Talon with 80K on the motor (Supposedly)
I replaced spark plugs, did an oil change, changed the oil filter, and just did a general tune up.
I am a bit of a noob, so I wouldn't trust me too much
Also, if the timing belt is thready and fibrous, it's time to change it.

 

[4Motion4g63]

You want to AVOID overfilling the Oil if possible...
Over full Oil can cause crankcase windage to create more pressure in the oil system and this will lead to main bearing seal failure or quicker wear in general, so it is not good...
Check your oil when its cold and keep it to the top "tick" mark at full but never over full, well unless its spewing oil and you need to get home or something * done that Once *

Also to check the bearings in the rear end, jack up the rear and put it in neutral and spin the wheels, the should move counter to each other, One will spin the opposite direction of the other wheel. You should find allot of things that could be problems later when checking the rear end.. you can also do this same thing up front..
Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock position and shift it left to right if there is allot of play the the bearing is VERY wore... Check all half shaft boots, ball joints, struts, brake/brakelines, while you are down there.....

Any time you get a new car IMO you disregard anything the seller MAY claim was done, and for peace of mind, change all Fluids, Filters, and go over everything well..

 

[Lofty]

Agh, about the oil thing. Sorry I posted an incorrect response
I did it in my car because I thought it would be leaking when I first got it, I put about a half a quart more then I was supposed to.

 

[DeNoZZo]

You want to AVOID overfilling the Oil if possible...
Over full Oil can cause crankcase windage to create more pressure in the oil system and this will lead to main bearing seal failure or quicker wear in general, so it is not good...
Check your oil when its cold and keep it to the top "tick" mark at full but never over full, well unless its spewing oil and you need to get home or something * done that Once *

Also to check the bearings in the rear end, jack up the rear and put it in neutral and spin the wheels, the should move counter to each other, One will spin the opposite direction of the other wheel. You should find allot of things that could be problems later when checking the rear end.. you can also do this same thing up front..
Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock position and shift it left to right if there is allot of play the the bearing is VERY wore... Check all half shaft boots, ball joints, struts, brake/brakelines, while you are down there.....

Any time you get a new car IMO you disregard anything the seller MAY claim was done, and for peace of mind, change all Fluids, Filters, and go over everything well..

How do you suggest I get XXX amount of oil out? It may seem like a stupid question, but i don't want to mess anything up. Should I just take the drain plug out a little and let a small amount run out. Or I though I remembered reading somewhere that I could just take off the oil filter, and that would let some out. But then could I just put the filter right back on, or would I need to replace it then and there?

 

[Lofty]

I don't think it would be necessary to replace it right then and there, but I mean, since you just bought it, you might as well right?

 

[DeNoZZo]

Yea, but i'm on a tight budget, and I need the car to get back and forth to work. Just want to be cautious when doing any engine/drivetrain work on the car.

 

[Lofty]

I still would anyways, just because you have no idea how old the one the previous owner had in it.
But that's just me.

 

[4Motion4g63]

both methods will work to drain some out.... but you might as well change it for cheap insurance. I would use a oil flush, drain refill with some good quality oil 3.5 quarts and maybe add .5 quarts of some Slick 50, Seafoam, or even some Lucas oil ( I use Lucas in everything, Not allot but some in everything from the transfer case to the engine oil ) Esp in a high mileage car...Some will knock the additives but I can beat the crap out of mine and it still holding up good and it has 160k on the Clock with 90k on the motor...

 

[DeNoZZo]

I also wanted to know if I take off the upper timing belt cover just to see how it looks, is there a certain spec to torque it back down?
And my valve cover has a small crack in the deepest part on the drivers side towards the front. The previous owner said it used to leak, but it hasn't in a long time. I have been keeping an eye on it, and it's not leaking, but it is a decent sized crack. I am afraid that if I take the timing belt cover off, then put it back on, it might cause the valve cover to flex and the crack to open.

 

[Lofty]

You do not have to torque it, it is merely there for protection.
Many people run without it, but you run a risk of getting a rock up there and busting your valves
Just be careful tightening it back up.
It doesn't have to be Super tight, just snug.

 

[4Motion4g63]

I also wanted to know if I take off the upper timing belt cover just to see how it looks, is there a certain spec to torque it back down?
And my valve cover has a small crack in the deepest part on the drivers side towards the front. The previous owner said it used to leak, but it hasn't in a long time. I have been keeping an eye on it, and it's not leaking, but it is a decent sized crack. I am afraid that if I take the timing belt cover off, then put it back on, it might cause the valve cover to flex and the crack to open.

Just replace the cover, you can pick them up in good shape from $25 used up to $200 or so custom painted, Dont reuse the seals!........... the cover is not "torque" specific but just don't get all he man on it, its Aluminum and strips easy snug with a half turn is good, I run lock washers on mine and check the frequently...

when you have the timing cover off check the belt deflection between the gears it should not move up and down more than a little * NOTE if the car has been sitting for a few hours it may relax the belt tension between the cam gears, Check it after it has been cranked * And of course the condition, oil soaked is bad, so is cracking and everything else is obvious...

ONE of the biggest WORRIES in the timing system is the balance shaft Belt, These are often overlooked and if they fail the can do ALLOT of damage..... This will be harder to check since you halfto remover the front cam cover and front wheel/wheel well cover by engine to check it.. Just about all DSM'ers get rid of the whole balance shaft assembly but just removing the belt is ok for short term.....


This picture is looking thu the drivers fender with the wheel off and the timing belt covers off... The small belt going up to the small gear from the crank shaft is the balance shaft belt, If it is there CUT it off and just remove it... * you may notice some more vibration at idle but thats about it till you do the balance shaft elimination*

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[Lofty]

Hmm, thanks for letting me know about the balance shaft belt.
But when you say fail, what does that mean? It snapps and busts something?
Why do you say it's okay for short term? Why couldn't I just have it cut perminently?

 

[4Motion4g63]

Its Usually overlooked when changing timing belt so the often fall apart and get into the timing belt witch is VERY bad.. You halfto buy a balance shaft elimination kit, untill you do just cut the belt off or get the kit and eliminate it..

 

[DeNoZZo]

are you sure just cutting the bs belt will not hurt anything.
And what about the lower timing belt cover.... Is that easy to take off and put back on?

 

[Ryan_Radio]

There are massive threads on cutting and replacing the balance shafts/belts. I would recommend you do some research on that matter before you just cut your belt off. Some people believe you will be fine just cutting it off and not removing the shafts, most believe you absolutely should not just cut the belt and leave the shafts inside. I would search and read up on what peoples personal experiences are and not just the people that are guessing.

 

[DeNoZZo]

well, I took the timing belt cover off and the belt looked better than my other ones which were replaced not to long ago. It had no fraying, it was dry, it was shiny (newish looking)...etc.
Anyways heres some pics

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I hope that little hole with cracks all around it isn't going to be a problem

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Almost looks like my water pump is missing a bolt???? Never had any overheating problems

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The plastic had been broken apart, and it looks like something blew a hole through it?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Since I've seen first-hand what damage can be caused by a busted timing/balance belt in person and in plenty of photos...

If I purchased a DSM w/140K miles on it and the owner didn't know when the TB was changed last, that would be the first item to do (more often than not, a new/re-built head is required when a belt snaps). As a matter of fact I would go through this list and do everything from 0 miles to 60K miles that I didn't have records for or could not readily tell if it was done, otherwise we'll be hearing another story about what a POS a DSM is. With any car...maintenance is key for (the most amount of) trouble-free operation:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/239375-maintenance-schedule.html

Forget any mods that you are probably thinking of as buying/installing go-fast parts does no good once the engine gets trashed. And it sucks worse when it's caused from lack of maintenence.

 

[DeNoZZo]

I am doing the maintinence things one paycheck at a time, so they are getting done, just not right away.... But i'm not going to just let this stuff go. I've done enough reading to know how fragile these cars are with maintinece, and understand that is the top priority.

 

[4Motion4g63]

There are massive threads on cutting and replacing the balance shafts/belts. I would recommend you do some research on that matter before you just cut your belt off. Some people believe you will be fine just cutting it off and not removing the shafts, most believe you absolutely should not just cut the belt and leave the shafts inside. I would search and read up on what peoples personal experiences are and not just the people that are guessing.

I am not just guessing in this area i have been running without a elimination kit for 3 years now, Cutting it is just a solution if its badly worn, I am not suggesting it as a Perm fix
I Know for a fact that its gonna do more harm if it comes loose and gets into the timing area than if it was just NOT there, Vibration has been the only side effect I deal with, I Really have NOT been inclined to remove my Balance shafts yet just because I A. Dont want to do it and B. Could care less about the internals in this block. I plan on a major Build and it will be done more than proper on a spare 6 bolt motor i have....