.10Amp Draw from Room Lamp fuse. Draining Battery

[way2slowtalon]

I am constantly draining my battery in the course of a couple days. After an Amp test I narrowed it down to the Room Lamp Fuse in the engine bay.

I went through all fuses and the 2 relays in the drivers side kick panel (no change).
Unplugged ECU and also Radio (still drawing).

Are there any relays/fuses/harness's I should still check that can be effected?

ABS Computer?
Lighting system?
Anything behind the radio?

Any suggestions I appreciate, thanks.

.10 amp = 100mA

 

[way2slowtalon]

Abs no go. Any other suggestions?>

 

[jtmcinder]

Did Talons have keyless entry in 1990?

 

[jtmcinder]

Then you have a keyless entry unit behind the plastic panel next to the seat behind the driver, yes?

With that said, don't most of these threads end with "I found the short..."?

 

[way2slowtalon]

No go alarm, still not found.

 

[way2slowtalon]

After 4 days with (negative cable OFF) the car magically had 9.3 volts. This proves it is a short somewhere correct? It can not be the batteries fault, since I tried this with 3 others including the Si's which is my daily driver currently.

 

[NHerron]

Can you rephrase your last post? You unplugged the neg cable, came back 4 days later and measured the battery out to 9.3V? What was it before you unhooked cable. If it's still drawing 100 milliamps with everything disconnected then yes I'd say something is not right but not necessarily a direct short. You should be around 20-35mA key off everything hooked up.

Possibilities
-heavy corrosion across power to ground (example pcb board corrosion caps leaking)
-small bulbs (glovebox, under cup holder near SRS module)
-relays will draw about that much current, check fuel pump rewire kit if you have done that mod
-anything aftermarket (gauges, alarms, stereo, remote starts)

Double and triple check typical wire hack jobs like headlights, behind stereo, engine harness, etc you'd be surprised how well someone can hide fabrication. We have all done it, make sure your on the right DVOM value too.

You can check if you have an alarm by hooking everything up, roll down window, close door, lock with remote, now try to open door from inside the car and observe.

I'll think of other ideas, sounds like an easy fix though

 

[way2slowtalon]

Can you rephrase your last post? You unplugged the neg cable, came back 4 days later and measured the battery out to 9.3V? What was it before you unhooked cable. If it's still drawing 100 milliamps with everything disconnected then yes I'd say something is not right but not necessarily a direct short. You should be around 20-35mA key off everything hooked up.

Possibilities
-heavy corrosion across power to ground (example pcb board corrosion caps leaking)
-small bulbs (glovebox, under cup holder near SRS module)
-relays will draw about that much current, check fuel pump rewire kit if you have done that mod
-anything aftermarket (gauges, alarms, stereo, remote starts)

Double and triple check typical wire hack jobs like headlights, behind stereo, engine harness, etc you'd be surprised how well someone can hide fabrication. We have all done it, make sure your on the right DVOM value too.

You can check if you have an alarm by hooking everything up, roll down window, close door, lock with remote, now try to open door from inside the car and observe.

I'll think of other ideas, sounds like an easy fix though

Yes with disconnecting the Negative cable, I drained the battery leaving the POSITIVE still connected. So yup def a drain. If I put on the Negative cable I see a small physical spark so something is draining/shorting. 20-50 amps I would laugh it off but I'm tiered of jumping this car all the time.

When I did this test I took out the physical door sensor on the drivers side inorder not to get false positives. I also tested that and that's not the problem. I took them off one by one looking for ANY drop.


Alright spent a total of 14hrs today unplugging every relay or harness known by me

*Drivers kickpanel: EVERY fuse imaginable, 2 relays, and right above it 4 relays and 1 10amp fuse.

*Behind Radio (including what looks like an ECU with 4 plugs) Relays, also took out ECU connectors*

*Behind Glovebox 2 relays. 1 connector, Plus ABS ECU under passenger side floor, with relay *



Plus disconnecting/testing and re-soldiering anything that was EVER modified.

^Aftermarket Alarm that was once installed and thrown out thinking that was the cause^

^AEM wideband^

^Pioneer Navi^

^Ignition harness^



and i found... NADA! Still draining .1 - .09 amps. I should of mentioned all my connections (battery/grounds) are redone with 4 guage Tsunami power wire. All connections for grounds were sanded and used gold metal ring terminals of 4 guage also.

All small bulbs have been taken out and still a drain.

Anymore suggestions I highly appreciate.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes with disconnecting the Negative cable, I drained the battery leaving the POSITIVE still connected.

With the negative cable disconnected how could the battery possibly drain current anywhere since it's disconnected?
Either 1) you didn't disconnect all cables from the battery negative post or 2) your battery has an internal short or 3) your battery is dirty enough on the outside that a small current is flowing through the dirt or 4) you really have less then 0.1A draw but for some reason you don't think so - how exactly did you measure this?

Even if you really did have 0.1A draw, your battery must be pretty weak to drop in only 4 days to 9.3V. It should be able to output this for weeks with no more than 0.5v voltage drop.

 

[steve]

With the negative cable disconnected how could the battery possibly drain current anywhere since it's disconnected?

Subscribed just to hear the answer to this? I'm always looking for new ways to break the laws of physics.

 

[way2slowtalon]

With the negative cable disconnected how could the battery possibly drain current anywhere since it's disconnected?
Either 1) you didn't disconnect all cables from the battery negative post or 2) your battery has an internal short or 3) your battery is dirty enough on the outside that a small current is flowing through the dirt or 4) you really have less then 0.1A draw but for some reason you don't think so - how exactly did you measure this?

Even if you really did have 0.1A draw, your battery must be pretty weak to drop in only 4 days to 9.3V. It should be able to output this for weeks with no more than 0.5v voltage drop.

I am measuring .1Amp by disconnecting the Negative terminal and sticking the black lead (Com setting) and the other side is hooked up to the negative post (10a fused). Also when I pull Room Lamp fuse 0 amps is my reading.

If I open a door or hatch, i get a reading near 2-4amps so I am hooked up right, I am sure of that.

From today the 25th on I will keep a log of voltage. I am at 12.4 right now with taking the car around the block for a little while.

I have 3 batteries all with the same result
1. Regular interstate battery (1yr oldish),
Optima Red Top (3months old),
another Optima Red Top (3 weeks old).



I have also went ahead and put the battery back in the trunk last night. Thinking this was originally the problem at first. Same headache with battery in the bay.


Will post pictures of my setup later tonight

Subscribed just to hear the answer to this? I'm always looking for new ways to break the laws of physics.

If a positive lead is getting grounded out wouldn't this occur?

 

[ColtiXim]

Maybe your regulator voltage inside the alternator is dead...
A bad regulator could drain current on sleeping car.

Take a good know condition alt and test one night the voltage...
Also keep one eye on all's ground and power connectors.

 

[way2slowtalon]

I am using the interstate battery for this.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[steve]

If a positive lead is getting grounded out wouldn't this occur?

Not if the negative terminal is disconnected. There has to be connections to both terminals of a battery to have a circuit and cause current to flow. That's one of the reasons why you always remove the ground terminal first and put it on last.

 

[luv2rallye]

I am measuring .1Amp by disconnecting the Negative terminal and sticking the black lead (Com setting) and the other side is hooked up to the negative post (10a fused).

To measure DC current on the 10A DC scale, you must have the positive test lead (red one) plugged into the 10A red jack above your thumb in the picture. The other end then connects to the battery negative harness cable (when it's disconnected from the battery, yet you still have the positive harness cable connected to battery positive). The black test lead plugs into the COM jack with the other end on the battery negative post itself. Is it possible you may not be using the 10A red jack when using the 10A scale (although your picture with the 0.09 reading doesn't show that area so I can't tell)?

 

[NHerron]

Wow I just noticed how MANY people have this same problem by searching google "room lamp fuse dsmtuners" Maybe someone should write out a guide someday.

OP, do you have the service manual? If you do, trace things and test the EASIEST to reach spots first.

Where is the room lamp fuse located, I can check things out if you don't have the manual. Who knows, I might have this problem too, once I get the car back together!

 

[luv2rallye]

The 10 amp "Room Lamp" fuse on a 2g is the 2nd from left, bottom row, in the engine fusebox. It supplies power to auto-cruise ECU, dome light, door ajar light, automatic tranny control module (if have), ECU, ETACS-ECU, foot light, ign key hole light, trunk light, motor antenna, radio, theft alarm,vanity mirror light, garage door opener, door locks, glove box, ign key reminder buzzer, lighting monitor buzzer, power windows, seat belt warning buzzer.

Removing "Room Lamp" fuse: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/po...ter-radio-install-help.383623/#post-152350112

 

[way2slowtalon]

The 10 amp "Room Lamp" fuse on a 2g is the 2nd from left, bottom row, in the engine fusebox. It supplies power to auto-cruise ECU, dome light, door ajar light, automatic tranny control module (if have), ECU, ETACS-ECU, foot light, ign key hole light, trunk light, motor antenna, radio, theft alarm,vanity mirror light, garage door opener, door locks, glove box, ign key reminder buzzer, lighting monitor buzzer, power windows, seat belt warning buzzer.

You are the man when it comes to this. I went through pretty much the whole list now.

Need help finding

ETACS-ECU location

Auto Tranny controller (was auto turned to 5spd so still may be there)

ign/lighting motor/and seat belt buzzers. NONE of those ever worked on my car.

Rest can be checked off, and not the issue.

 

[knochgoon24]

To measure DC current on the 10A DC scale, you must have the positive test lead (red one) plugged into the 10A red jack above your thumb in the picture. The other end then connects to the battery negative harness cable (when it's disconnected from the battery, yet you still have the positive harness cable connected to battery positive). The black test lead plugs into the COM jack with the other end on the battery negative post itself. Is it possible you may not be using the 10A red jack when using the 10A scale (although your picture with the 0.09 reading doesn't show that area so I can't tell)?

This.

Since you only seem to be drawing .1A, use the 200mADC setting and the middle port for your positive lead. Your black lead should be in the bottom COM port.

I don't know if either circuit is fused, but worst case, you're out a $5 multimeter if for some reason you draw more current while measuring.

 

[sandh_performance]

As steve stated with the negative terminal disconnected it is an open circuit, there is no current flow even if something on the pos side was shorted or grounded. Your readings are throwing you off becasue your mulitmeter is completing the circuit.

 

[way2slowtalon]

This.

Since you only seem to be drawing .1A, use the 200mADC setting and the middle port for your positive lead. Your black lead should be in the bottom COM port.

I don't know if either circuit is fused, but worst case, you're out a $5 multimeter if for some reason you draw more current while measuring.

I did it and I started with 92- and in no time was at 88.2. So I went ahead and brought all 3 batteries to PepBoys to test. Guess what.... ALL BAD! Even the 3 month old one! The Interstate I chucked since I had no warranty, and the yr old Optima was down 3 cells, with the 3 month down 1 cell.


Soooo..... I have a BRAND new battery now (manufactured 1/12) optima Red top. Before I pop this thing in and start all over let me ask this.

Why are all these batteries going bad? Short? Bad grounding?

And also what can I do/check/test before I pop this thing back in the car and end up with another smoked battery?

Also I purchased a short finder light, and with hatch open glows like a spotlight, hatch closed totally off. Am I in the clear?

Can this be from having the car sit in between things breaking, and not full charging/recharging the batteries enough?


Sorry that's like 40 questions but now I have new information.

 

[way2slowtalon]

Weird issue: When I hit the hazards, or turn signal the dome lights blink too. Just on battery and with the car on.

Short right?! Even though short tester came out negative?

 

[NHerron]

No. If you notice that when a turn signal comes on everything DIMS besides that turn signal. I had the same issue and thought that as well. When a big draw comes off the battery it takes power away from the other lights unless the car is on and the alternator is compensating for loss of power.

 

[way2slowtalon]

Thanks! So far so good with this new battery. Any way to test if I have a faulty alternator possibly causing bad cells? I get strong voltage readings 14.4 but not sure why I'm going through batteries like this.

 

[knochgoon24]

Check the voltage while someone slowly revs the engine. Make sure the voltage output isn't higher than normal. If it is, this could be burning out cells.