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10 Seconds On Straight Pump Gas

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super95awd said:
Oh, it's just dryer ducting heat wrap from Lowes, and they are just plain old zip ties. Nothing fancy here, just stuff that works. People need to concentrate on that more often.

ROFL

Yeah, true, it's just that I saw the rest of your car and figured the zip ties were..

"A strong, low-density, highly corrosion-resistant, lustrous white metallic element that occurs widely in igneous rocks and is used to alloy aircraft metals for low weight, strength, and high-temperature stability."

Guess not. Thanks..
 
super95awd said:
15x6.5 Traklites wrapped in 235/60 ET Streets. Mirrors are having carbon block-offs made for them. Sunroof has a fiberglass blockoff being made for it. The hatch is just down having the holes filled and repainted.

About the blitz kit, hell ya, I love the low sides and rear. The front however :|
What is the offset on the wheels and do you use any wheels spacers with those?
Weight?
 
Also, I'm currently having a few issues with the ignition system that I am trying to sort out. The car tried its best to fire today, but it was trying on 2cyl's and I've been tracing whatever wiring problem that is for about 6 hours. Hopefully tomorrow I will get it tracked down.
 
maybe one of your trigger wires for the cas senosr is pinched or broke????
good luck and hope you get her lit soon!!!!!
 
I've been checking over the CAS wiring like it's my job and I can't find anything. The MSD is also flashing "Intermittent Input Signal", so it's GOT to be something with that circuit somewhere. I've tried just about everything, this is beginning to get ridiculous.
 
what lid cas do you already have on it?
i was told that the black lids work the best, and that's ehat i have on mine.
hopefully getting the new cas will make her fire up!!!!!:thumb:
 
Freakin' internet has been down all day. I got a black lid CAS to try out and I can't get it to do ANYTHING now. I have no idea what's going on. I'm just tired of looking at the exact same wires for somewhere around 25 hours and not seeing anything different.
 
Ok, honestly, wtf? I eliminated the MSD and coil on plug from the equation. Transistor pack is fine, CAS is fine, however I can only get it to fire on 2 cylinders no matter what I do. This is ridiculous.
 
Ok, if memeory serves me the black lid one is a hall effect sensor. Im not 100% sure but I think the others are optical. Anyway the hall effect sends out a dc singnal, so do you have access to a o-scope or dmm. If so connect to the trigger wire and look for a voltage on and off or digital as thats the only thing the ecu can read or understand. You may have already done this, if so try and see if the ecu is reciving this signal, If it's not there will be no spark or fuel. Also not sure if this ever happens on dsm's, but sometimes the smitts trigger inside the hall effect can go bad resulting in ac voltage going to the ecu, which is a bad thing to say the least, you may just want to see if there is any ac voltage coming out with a simple volt meter, make sure it's rated for solid sate componts though, no wal-mart stuff here. A good meter has around 10-11million ohms resistance. I wish I had a wring diagram, I could be of more help. I love figuring this kind of stuff out as it's about the same at school(UTI) so lets see what we can do. And anyone else for that matter..I know theres some wisemen that have all the diagrams memorized.

This may be all basic stuff you have already done, just trying to help figure this issue out.

One more thing that comes to mind (this may sound very dumb) is the battery charged and is it getting at least 9.6-11volts while cranking, if not the ecu will not do anything.

Like I said you probly have covered all these bases, your WAY father than me on my car so if it sounds elementry don't bash me too much.

Derek:dsm:
 
From the post you just posted, I would check your grounds over....man I need a diagram..it sounds like the typical cas problem, but you said it was fine. I will do some searching as I have nothing better to do at 3am .

Derek:dsm:
 
Thanks a lot for being willing to help. The CAS I know is good, and the good thing is about rewiring the entire car is that I know EXACTLY where every single wire is running for everything. I am 95% sure that the grounds are fine. One thing I was thinking was that maybe there is a pin or 2 coming off the ECU that are it's main grounds that I may have not grounded. I'm pretty sure there's not, but hey, anything's possible at this point.
 
I did not look at your profile but I assume you are using a 6bolt(not sure why you wouldn't be) so if you don't have the diagrams I have them all if you need any just ask, I just found my FSM on cd, it has been missing for about 4months and I found it tonight. Anyway let me know as theres tons of info, may even be some tests that could be done. Since you did rewire it I assume you already have all the diagrams.

Derek:dsm:
 
What an amazing car. I might have to get Nate to tune my car now.
 
Good luck on finding the problem andrew, im about to step outside and try and fix this one.
 
Thank you again! Does anybody have any idea what pin13 on the ECU's purpose is??? I was pretty sure it was a ground of some sort but just looking back over stuff, on the ECU pinouts it says "Power Supply". I have no idea what's going on.
 
pin 13 is the Control relay (Fuel pump drive signal), thats what it says in the fsm.

Derek :dsm:
 
It was firing on 2 and 3. I just found what might be the problem, so I'm gonna wire some shit back up and see if I can't get it to do something. I REALLY need somebody to be in the garage with me for my own sanity though, and I have no one right now.
 
Got fuel, got spark, got compression. What stupid thing is it that's keeping it from starting? I've troubleshooted my wiring mess this far, I'm sure as hell not giving up now and I know it's something moronic, I've just been thinking so complex lately.

It tried to fire a couple times, just real brief.
 
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