Pump gas records?

[mikEclipse99]

Does any body know the current dsm pump gas record for hp/tq and 1/4 mile? Of all the research I am finding everything is from a few years ago.

 

[twicks69]

Not sure anymore, technology has changed the game alot.

I have done 9.49 @ 151mph on 93 octane with my car at 32psi on 93-octane, but that's been years and I'm on the same setup for nearly 9 years.

I'm sure there are several DSM's quicker than mine on pump gas.

 

[mikEclipse99]

Wow tim! I didn't realize that was done on pump gas. Very impressive. I also have been wondering about the 7 bolt records

 

[Ludachris]

Pump gas for what region? 91 or 93 octane? Hell, even E85 is pump gas I'm working on getting the Timeslips section back online this month, I'll try and add in some "leaderboard" widgets for fastest 14b, 91 octane, 93 octane, manual, auto, FWD, etc, after the basic framework is back online.

 

[mikEclipse99]

Awesome! I was wondering what had happened to that. In regards to "pump gas" I am referring to 93 octane

 

[95eclipser]

Not sure anymore, technology has changed the game alot.

I have done 9.49 @ 151mph on 93 octane with my car at 32psi on 93-octane, but that's been years and I'm on the same setup for nearly 9 years.

I'm sure there are several DSM's quicker than mine on pump gas.

@twicks69 Very impressed by the longevity of your 2.3 motor.

 

[twicks69]

It has lasted, but needs to be refreshed; the block is cracked from being frozen a few years back so I haven't tracked it since 2015 DSM Shootout when it did a 9.50 @ 155mph on 30psi on E85/C16 50/50% mix. It was pushing coolant into the overflow so I pulled the head and replaced the head gasket as a precaution but knew the real problem is just that the block is pressurizing the cooling system since it only pushes coolant above radiator cap pressure (30-32psi rad cap). I gave it one more test hit in qualify #3 and I didn't like how it was acting; it was still pushing water into the tank and not sucking it back in so I took my car out of competition because I didn't want to risk a mess or a safety situation for other racers. I still street drive it every few weeks at 30psi with my street tires being the only difference (M&H R-compounds) and it still does 2nd gear acceleration tire roasties easily, and an occasional 3rd gear tire spinner , so I know it is still making power. It still does 70-100 mile drives without issue every time, other than I just have to deal with pouring the overflow back into the cooling system. Lame.

There's over like 35,000 miles and around 450-500 track passes and alot of dyno time on this motor. It has had a good life. This winter / upcoming spring when I build my new motor I'll take this one apart and take a look at it. I have not taken apart the shortblock in its 9 years. I have pulled the oil pan only to remove a drill bit that someone dropped down the main oil galley in the head while we were at DSM Shootout in 2014. The oil has always looked perfect, the coolant has no contamination, the motor sounds fine, so screw it; run her until she pops or until I build the replacement motor.

Not bad for an aluminum rod 2.3L 7-bolt with a crank out of a hydro-locked Kia Optima !

 

[95eclipser]

It has lasted, but needs to be refreshed; the block is cracked from being frozen a few years back so I haven't tracked it since 2015 DSM Shootout when it did a 9.50 @ 155mph on 30psi on E85/C16 50/50% mix. It was pushing coolant into the overflow so I pulled the head and replaced the head gasket as a precaution but knew the real problem is just that the block is pressurizing the cooling system since it only pushes coolant above radiator cap pressure (30-32psi rad cap). I gave it one more test hit in qualify #3 and I didn't like how it was acting; it was still pushing water into the tank and not sucking it back in so I took my car out of competition because I didn't want to risk a mess or a safety situation for other racers. I still street drive it every few weeks at 30psi with my street tires being the only difference (M&H R-compounds) and it still does 2nd gear acceleration tire roasties easily, and an occasional 3rd gear tire spinner , so I know it is still making power. It still does 70-100 mile drives without issue every time, other than I just have to deal with pouring the overflow back into the cooling system. Lame.

There's over like 35,000 miles and around 450-500 track passes and alot of dyno time on this motor. It has had a good life. This winter / upcoming spring when I build my new motor I'll take this one apart and take a look at it. I have not taken apart the shortblock in its 9 years. I have pulled the oil pan only to remove a drill bit that someone dropped down the main oil galley in the head while we were at DSM Shootout in 2014. The oil has always looked perfect, the coolant has no contamination, the motor sounds fine, so screw it; run her until she pops or until I build the replacement motor.

Not bad for an aluminum rod 2.3L 7-bolt with a crank out of a hydro-locked Kia Optima !

Kia I saw that on your site.

So many questions.. but I'll just hit you with three.

1) What is your next setup going to be? Aluminum... 2.0 2.1 2.3 long rod?

2) Also what do you think about the Vader "x" rotating assembly by FFWD?

3)Are you planning to run the new Frontline Fab billet oil pump?

 

[mikEclipse99]

@twicks69 It's funny that no one really sticks with the 7 bolt to make serious power yet the both of us are still on a 7 bolt 2.3L. Plus I also built mine in 2008. Something about old 2.3L's that just love to make the jams! I used to daily drive my car from 2008-2012 and put about 65k miles on this bottom end. Obviously, I have thrown new bearings at it but thats it!

 

[mikEclipse99]

Also, @twicks69 when you do build your new motor will you be sticking with the 7 bolt?

 

[95eclipser]

I'd like to know that as well.

If I build a new motor Ill be taking advantage of those 11mm dowels you created.

 

[twicks69]

I am continuing to do 7 bolt. The new motor I'll try is going to be a long rod 2.2L. 94mm billet Manley crank, 156mm R&R rods with big pin, thick wall tool steel pins, on a 7:1 custom Diamond piston. Yes, I will have the Front line Fabrication billet oil pump on the engine as well. It will also have ACL HX-series bearings for mains and rods, and I'll prepare the block for 1/2" studs and my 1/2" cylinder head dowels. It will also be a half-fill block using Hardblok.

As for Darren's FFWD aluminum rods and other components, I think that they are excellent parts. My old steel rod 2.3L I had from 2005-2008ish had a stroker butcher crank on eagle rods with custom Ross stroker pistons and his coatings. It was a very fun motor that I simply pushed a bit too far and bent the crank from higher revs (~8600rpm) and a metric ton of boost (48-52psi typically). I will give his stuff a try in my next motor after this one if I ever need another one in the next decade.

 

[95eclipser]

@twicks69

Thank you for the info. Last question why 2.2 over 2.1? Looking for a little more tq?
will you be switching up your turbo or manifold. I see your still on the DNP per your site.

 

[twicks69]

I really did it for the easier job of clearancing the block. The 2.3 in the car with ancient Groden custom rods were absolutely huge and it required a ton of grinding / clearance work to the main oil galley and cylinders and webbing. Which took a lot of time and money. We ended up doing numerous sonic tests and 5 axis CNC machining to make sure we didn't go through the main oil galley while giving enough clearance. This one should be easier to assemble with less grind work.

I also have been spinning my motor to around 9200rpm. I should be able to go around the 10,200rpm range now. I might be sacrificing about 300rpm spool but will gain 1000rpm top rpm range.

Yes, the same old DNP manifold and Borg Warner S475 are still on the car. I have a billet wheel to stuff in it, but all the other parts still work for now. When I have time I'll change out that stuff, but there are many many other things on the plate to do first before replacing things that already work. Just like the 2.5" IC piping and 60mm throttle body .

 

[blue blaze]

I am a die hard 7 bolt guy. Its all I have ever used never cranked walked one. Have gone through main bearings spinning the car past 10000 rpm a lot. Go through a motor about every 3 years with tons of dyno time and track time. I have made a lot of low 9 second passes at altitude. But not without lots of failures

 

[mikEclipse99]

*Knock on wood* I have always ran a 7 bolt since 2008. Never once actually blown or even damaged this engine after I built it. The stock 7 bolt that was in here simply spun a bearing back in 2008. Even the block I am using is still the original to the car. I am going to the track Friday to try to get that 9 on street tires and then slap the stickies on and see how deep this will go.

 

[blue blaze]

Best of luck man. I am going out 1 last time for the year hoping to finally run a 8 second pass and have it drive back in the trailer under its own strength

 

[mikEclipse99]

Your 2g looks gorgeous, where can I find some more pictures of it? @blue blaze

 

[blue blaze]

I am rarely on the forums and need to put more stuff in my profile. I will try to update it soon. The car is a 1998 talon. Motor wise it is a 2.0L, Grp Rods, Wiseco 8.5 to 1 pistons. Manley Crank, Stock Head, Stock Valves No Name. Giggly Be Hive Springs, Felpro Head Gasket. Arp Bolts Everything. English Racing Auto Trans, ER Transfer Case, Dss, Driveline Dss Axles Stage 5, Ets 5 Inch Intercooler, Jm Fab Top Mount Exhaust Manifold, Bullseye Power S383 125 exhaust 87mm turbine, 8 1600cc Injectors, Dsm Link V3 Dyna Arc 2 Ignition, Nitrous Express 200 shot dry, etc.etc.

Right now it is on waste gate making about 680 hp. Every since I came off Aem I have been trying to figure the car out on Link. It has been quite the challenge for the last few years to try and get it figured out on all of the injectors. When I was on Aem I don't actually have a solid answer as into why but, at about 50 pounds of boost inconsistently the timing would drift and I would loose motors left and right. I have been on Link for 3 years now and have not lost 1 motor. The technology is pretty prermative in comparison to Aem so there are not as many features so controlling the second set of injectors has been a real challenge. I would go to the dyno and I have made as much as 880 through the auto at like 47 pounds of boost. Then go to the track and as soon as I would launch the car when the second set of injectors would come on it would just flood the motor. I have currently gone temporarily just down to the 1 set to figure this problem out which I think that I have. Next week I am going back to the dyno and I will finally turn the boost up and hope to go back to the track with a 1000 plus through the auto. And hopefully run a decent number.

But it could all go south too and another long season scratching my head again..