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“DOT hard tire”

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TWOpointFORliter

10+ Year Contributor
644
120
Jul 31, 2009
Crown Point, Indiana
My local track runs the the track backwards for the street car brawl events and the surface at that end is terrible. I launch my car at 4K and spin down the entire 1320 in every gear the surface is so bad. I’m sure my 8 year old tires and open diffs play a big role in that. The true street class that I want to run requires awd to run a “dot approved hard tire”. They don’t have a answer as to what tread rating they are looking to see. Anyone run a class with similar rules? If so what tires work best for you? Or what tires would you think best fit these rules?
 
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Never ran a class specific but I'd run these if they said hard tire.
Treadware is 40 though so they will wear out.
 
Well then count those out. :ohdamn:
 
Most hard tire events want a treadwear rating above 200 or 220.

This isn’t a hard tire event. It’s just a way to handicap the awd’s. The rest of the “true street” class can run a 28” non w tire. They consider fitting the must have an exhaust rule to be anything that doesn’t have open headers. Then they have this whole must fit the spirit of the class rule so they can tweak the rules to either keep cars out or allow cars in as they see fit.

I’m just not 100% sure what is truly considered a hard tire. I’ve asked about tread wear a few times and the promoters keep responding with “must be a true hard tire”.
 
Have u tried out those Hankook"s yet? If so, did they work well for you? We tried a set on one if our cars and it was worse than the street tires we use. They have a hard sidewall, and I believe are more suitable for a road course tire. We ran the 245/45/16.
 
Have u tried out those Hankook"s yet? If so, did they work well for you? We tried a set on one if our cars and it was worse than the street tires we use. They have a hard sidewall, and I believe are more suitable for a road course tire. We ran the 245/45/16.

That doesn’t sound very promising. The surface on the back side of the track is truly horrible. Way worse than any street I have ever done a pull on. What street tires did you feel worked better than the Hancocks?
 
This isn’t a hard tire event. It’s just a way to handicap the awd’s. The rest of the “true street” class can run a 28” non w tire. They consider fitting the must have an exhaust rule to be anything that doesn’t have open headers. Then they have this whole must fit the spirit of the class rule so they can tweak the rules to either keep cars out or allow cars in as they see fit.

I’m just not 100% sure what is truly considered a hard tire. I’ve asked about tread wear a few times and the promoters keep responding with “must be a true hard tire”.

theyre still probably going to try to make you go by those same rules though. at least thats how our no preps here in ohio are.
 
From the ones I have actually used myself...

Yokohama s drives (discontinued now I believe)
Firestone firehawk indy 500 (what I have now)
General Altimax artics (on my brothers car)

All of the them hook decent on the street and track.
Best 60ft of 1.62 when I was 5 speed, to be determined on the auto swap.
 
This isn’t a hard tire event. It’s just a way to handicap the awd’s. The rest of the “true street” class can run a 28” non w tire. They consider fitting the must have an exhaust rule to be anything that doesn’t have open headers. Then they have this whole must fit the spirit of the class rule so they can tweak the rules to either keep cars out or allow cars in as they see fit.

I’m just not 100% sure what is truly considered a hard tire. I’ve asked about tread wear a few times and the promoters keep responding with “must be a true hard tire”.
I can cut 1.6 60’s on cheap 225 uniroyals. If you set the car up you can launch decent on any tire.

It’s going to take a sticky tire to get into the 1.5’s, and a slick for anything much better than that. You also really want to avoid drag radials. They just break everything.
 
I can cut 1.6 60’s on cheap 225 uniroyals. If you set the car up you can launch decent on any tire.

It’s going to take a sticky tire to get into the 1.5’s, and a slick for anything much better than that. You also really want to avoid drag radials. They just break everything.

I cut pretty consistent 1.7’s on the right side of the track and have a few 1.6’s as well. I don’t expect to get anywhere close to that on the back side of the track. The surface is so bad there is a wheelie bounty that no one has collected in the 4 years the event has been going on. I’m just trying to find a tire that can help me get the power to the ground in the top end. My car is turned down to 30 psi for the event so I’m only putting 500 to the ground. It still light the tires up in 3rd and 4th. Never imagined my awd would be so ineffective.
 
As I recently got all AWDs banned from our local no prep hard tire class (200tw max rule) I can say these things:

Forgot driving the car anything like you would on a prepped surface, or even the street. The backwards ran events are fun but there's no traction at all.

Use BBG if you have ECMLink and turn it down in first a lot.

If you can get away with it cost the tires with prep. Ive soaked and bagged them for a few days and it'll last 3-4 runs before traction starts to fade noticeably.

That said, my car makes 500+ on gate pressure and I was able to get the car hooked for the most part in second (on Hankook RS3 235/45-17s) using these tips. Make sure your alignment, bushings, suspension are on point as well. Don't launch off a 2 step or antilag, you want to aggressively roll the car out with some clutch slip and feather the throttle in first. Some spin is perfect because all the other cars are definitely going to spin worse. If you're still spinning badly pull some timing out on the hit and lessen the tq spike.

Good luck
 
As I recently got all AWDs banned from our local no prep hard tire class (200tw max rule) I can say these things:

Forgot driving the car anything like you would on a prepped surface, or even the street. The backwards ran events are fun but there's no traction at all.

Use BBG if you have ECMLink and turn it down in first a lot.

If you can get away with it cost the tires with prep. Ive soaked and bagged them for a few days and it'll last 3-4 runs before traction starts to fade noticeably.

That said, my car makes 500+ on gate pressure and I was able to get the car hooked for the most part in second (on Hankook RS3 235/45-17s) using these tips. Make sure your alignment, bushings, suspension are on point as well. Don't launch off a 2 step or antilag, you want to aggressively roll the car out with some clutch slip and feather the throttle in first. Some spin is perfect because all the other cars are definitely going to spin worse. If you're still spinning badly pull some timing out on the hit and lessen the tq spike.

Good luck

Wow thanks for the awesomely detailed reply. I will certainly try all of that next year. They have banned awd’s on and off throughout the years here too. The atmosphere at these events are so much more fun than anything in the front side IMO.

My first pass ever on that surface I learned really fast that it was nothing like I’d ever been on. Left on the 2 step at 4750 and it torque steered like never before. Was a ton of fun but not really ideal for going fast. Tried it at 4500 and 4000 also with better but still terrible results. I didn’t get to lower it anymore and try again because the class races were starting and I wanted some pirogies. You saying don’t bother with it at all even at 3k or 2k even?
 
Right, don't use the 2 step. Like Donnie said use RPM not boost. How much rpm will depend on you and your setup. If you can modulate tire spin and slip the clutch from a higher rpm then that's the way to go because it'll keep wheel speed up and prevent bogging the car down a ton.
 
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