1990TSIAWDTALON said:

I don't know if its been said but I sit in my car, idling, and play with the global first to try to get my LTFTs and STFTs close to zero. They never are so I reduce or add global a bit and look at my Ecmlink log that I am running and look at LTFTs. I adjust to get it close, or within +/- 5% then I fiddle with deadtimes for STFTs to bring them within 5% +/-. A note here, YOU CAN RUN NEGATIVE DEAD TIMES. It should idle pretty good and drive ok but the WOT will not be correct. I haven't got that perfected when I mess with my settings yet.
Marty

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Seems reasonable, I'll toggle some more (and still do the TPS voltage adjustment you recommended). I'd rather spend more time getting a better idle than rush it, doing my best not to blow it up.

I see your wideband is no longer datalogged.

I had bad info in the ECMLink setup, the WB was never logged. It's now in the EGR Temp Pin and logging. Got the TPS voltage adjustment done. Car starts and runs, has some idle surge for a bit before it settles back down to 750-800. Still playing with the fuel, but feels like it's getting closer. My next curiosity is not hearing the BOV open when under a small throttle blip, 2800 rpm or so, maybe needs to be under more load. Almost time for a drive.

Thanks to all that have chimed in and I always welcome more input.

You need to aggressively add deadtime on the fuel tab. By a factor of hundreds. You're a few points lean and the ecu is adding a lot of fuel.

If that doesn't do it, your global/base fuel is wrong, which is highly probable.

Stapl3 said:

You need to aggressively add deadtime on the fuel tab. By a factor of hundreds. You're a few points lean and the ecu is adding a lot of fuel.

If that doesn't do it, your global/base fuel is wrong, which is highly probable.

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Yep, would agree it's user error. Definitely learning as I go, with awesome input by others for ECMLink. This log is -60.2% global & 350 ms on deadtime.

Did you know yet, that you can check a box on the fueling tab that makes your changes take effect as you do them? It is how I get things done a bit quicker, but like I said, I sit in the car and tune it while its running. I can tell if my changes are making a difference and how much by watching the fuel trims. Now if you accidentally type in or arrow up/down too much, the car will die and you have to go back to a good setting to get it started again. I find it very helpful when I am getting a new motor started and running for the first time. You can see, feel and hear the changes and must know what your fuel trims are doing as you change a global or deadtime setting. If it feels worse, go the other way. Pretty simple really. I didn't know if you had seen that checkbook or not. Just a tip.
Marty

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Did you know yet, that you can check a box on the fueling tab that makes your changes take effect as you do them? It is how I get things done a bit quicker, but like I said, I sit in the car and tune it while its running. I can tell if my changes are making a difference and how much by watching the fuel trims. Now if you accidentally type in or arrow up/down too much, the car will die and you have to go back to a good setting to get it started again. I find it very helpful when I am getting a new motor started and running for the first time. You can see, feel and hear the changes and must know what your fuel trims are doing as you change a global or deadtime setting. If it feels worse, go the other way. Pretty simple really. I didn't know if you had seen that checkbook or not. Just a tip.
Marty

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Oh yea buddy, doing the same, sitting in the hot garage trying not to die from exhaust fumes (yes the door is open) haha. Little tweaks, see how it reacts, check the log, rinse & repeat!

Just checking, it will get there. I fiddle with mine until it and I are both happy.
Keep that door open

It's lots better and you could probably get it damn good chipping away like you are. Ultimately this is all temporary without a WOT pull to about 6k rpm. That is the only way to get your global fuel and base fuel pressure correct.

@GoldNugget90 , if you get to the point where you feel comfortable enuf to floor it and do a 3rd gear pull, make dam sure
1) you are logging it &
2) watch the wideband very close and if it starts to get lean (12, 13 or going up higher) let out and post the log. @Stapl3 is bringing it up because if your EstAFR and the True AFR match up or are close at 5000-6000 (did I get that right?), then you are in the ballpark for having global fuel set about right and can then dial in the deadtime for idle and cruise. Just another FYI.
Post any log and we can see how its going.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

if your EstAFR and the True AFR match up or are close at 5000-6000 (did I get that right?),

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~5500rpm.

There we go, thank you for correcting me!

Yep will do! I think it's getting closer for me to do the 5500-6k pull. Still a bit nervous about it, but will log all the attempts and babysit the wideband. Hoping to get it on the road this weekend, but we'll see what the schedule allows. Thanks again to all that have weighed in thus far, really appreciate the support. It's been ~20 years since I've been in the DSM game but have enjoyed every moment back tinkering with this one.

I giggle inside because I was once VERY LEARY of doing a pull to 7k, just like you feel so I understand. Now I run a couple motors to 9k.

Ever since my timing belt snapped while I was idling around a corner, I'll send this sucker to the moon Don't worry, Nugget, you'll be totally fine.

nice97civic said:

Ever since my timing belt snapped while I was idling around a corner, I'll send this sucker to the moon Don't worry, Nugget, you'll be totally fine.

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Don't speak that into existence! My TB and components have only <1k miles on them so they *shouldn't* break. Had the car 3 years and it's spent way more time on jackstands than being driven, mostly by choice. I don't use the A/C, and in FL, that greatly reduces my comfort level 8 months of the year...I wanna hear the car windows down in full glory!

That's all I listen to in my car even tho it has a stereo.

GoldNugget90 said:

Don't speak that into existence! My TB and components have only <1k miles on them so they *shouldn't* break. Had the car 3 years and it's spent way more time on jackstands than being driven, mostly by choice. I don't use the A/C, and in FL, that greatly reduces my comfort level 8 months of the year...I wanna hear the car windows down in full glory!

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mine had 70k on it at the time so there was no reason it should've snapped. This was a little over a year ago shortly after I bought it and I was as surprised as anyone. Don't worry, I'm not wishing that on you. Just my daily reminder to SEND IT.

Went to get gas, successfully, didn't press her too hard. Thought it drove well, still some things to dial in but overall happy. Now won't start at all Considering just getting a new battery with more power, but I dunno. Nothing changed from driving to today so unless a ground shook loose I'm stumped.

You're averaging a full point lean during cruise.

If you want to do this without doing the needed WOT pull, fully warm the car up. Adjust deadtime on the fuel tab until AFRatioEst=WB. That's really all you can do at this point until you are able to do a WOT pull. If you're worried about popping the engine, you can pull timing on the timing sliders for a safer pull.

Stapl3 said:

You're averaging a full point lean during cruise.

If you want to do this without doing the needed WOT pull, fully warm the car up. Adjust deadtime on the fuel tab until AFRatioEst=WB. That's really all you can do at this point until you are able to do a WOT pull. If you're worried about popping the engine, you can pull timing on the timing sliders for a safer pull.

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I hear you. My plan was a fair amount of light cruising and adjusting for a bit before going for the WOT pull. Until I can diagnose the no-start after that first drive, I'm in troubleshooting mode.