1G F4A33 Transmission Issues

92PLazer · Aug 3, 2026

Hi everyone I'm back to work on the Laser

I have a couple of questions regarding my current state of affairs.

When I got this vehicle, OD was ineffective when turned on. Once I go 40/mph+, the gear slips and I am essentially in neutral. I have been driving the vehicle with OD off for about 20k miles. Not ideal, but this is my daily and I am making it work. I also experience dramatic delays in shifting particularly when I start my vehicle and move from park to drive/reverse. Once the car does go into gear, the gears don't slip and move generally well. I attempted a fluid exchange on the transmission when I got it, I drained and added roughly 4 qts to "freshen" up. After the fluid exchange, of course no change to OD situation, and the shifting did not improve either. Fast forward to today, the delay has only gotten worse and I am afraid it's going to give out on me in traffic. My current plan of attack is a full fluid exchange, and replacing the shifting solenoids. I dropped the pan, and I can see the filter but not sure if I need to fully remove the valve body to access/replace them, if the filter has to be replaced, really any of the next steps in order to fix the issue. I'm really going off assumptions at this point and if anyone has some expertise in the area, some pointers would be appreciated. Attached are photos of the valve body, the dropped pan, the discolored fluid (possibly mixed with water/oil, please help confirm) and this strange bore that was filled in with silicone on the outside of the trans casing.

I'm a complete amateur, and now knowing I have a transmission issue I don't know if it's better for me to take everything apart or just drop the car off to a shop and let them attempt a rebuild. This car means a lot to me so I would rather work on it myself if I can do it and I don't trust any mechanics nowadays especially on a 30+ year old vehicle. If anyone can help identify the state of my situation and the best next steps regarding fixing the shifting issue and the overdrive problem, it would be greatly appreciated!

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Just to confirm this is a 1992 Plymouth Laser RS with the 2.0 DOHC motor, naturally aspirated. I am pretty sure these use the F4A33 transmission but as I said I am an amateur and would love to be corrected if not the case

steve · Aug 3, 2026

92 NA 2.0 would have a F4A22 Automatic Transmission the F4A33 would be in the turbo cars.

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Brandon Mau · Aug 3, 2026

The fluid doesn’t look great. I’d go ahead and pop the end clutch cover off. Should be 5x10mm bolts, it has 2 spots you can gently pry to pop it off. Pop the snap ring off and take a look at those friction and steels. Here is a great video to watch of the OG auto DSM trans rebuilder. Take some pics and report back.

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Also the filter is looking really rough. The plastic ones only have a single inlet where the factory metal ones are dual inlet. Here is the part number from NAPA, last time I bought some it was like $12-13 for one. ATP 19260, open the box at the store and make sure it’s a metal one. I’ve only gotten a plastic one once with that part number in the last 10 years.

92PLazer · Aug 4, 2026

Before we continue, huge thank you for the quick response and helpful insight. You guys rock.

Following Brandon's advice, I removed the end clutch housing. Looked pretty normal although the nasty oil is very present. A little worried about what is sitting in the torque converter and rest of the system, alas we will get there. Once removed, I removed the end clutch assembly. I watched the video and followed the steps up to where the snap ring is removed and the gears are able to come out of the assembly. Needless to say, they're fried to a crisp especially the one on top. Probably why my O/D is not able to function?

So I'm more than likely going to get the ITP performance and a new transmission filter, metal not plastic. Those two issues are apparent and hopefully will make my machine suffer less. However, how feasible are these fixes for the long term? Is a complete replacement of my transmission required to get my car back up and running safely? Can my issues be fixed with a rebuild of current components and a flush? I drove the vehicle without O/D and delayed shifting for around 20k miles. I'm afraid my negligence may have destroyed it :/ Any further insight on what to do/where to go from here is much appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far.

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Brandon Mau · Aug 4, 2026

I think that’s a good start. When the end clutch goes it can cause quite a few different issues. Mainly because it’s most likely bleeding pressure off from the other clutch packs. That should resolve the O.D issue from my experience. I would love to tell you everything will be good after installing a new end clutch setup and the transmission filter but it’s not a 100% guarantee. This is just the quickest and cheapest method to address what’s 100% visually defective and lines up with the symptoms you have expressed. Now if you still have symptoms after that an overhaul will be required.

steve · Aug 4, 2026

I wouldn't be too surprised if the other clutches were also worn out.

92PLazer · Aug 4, 2026

Brandon Mau said:
I think that’s a good start. When the end clutch goes it can cause quite a few different issues. Mainly because it’s most likely bleeding pressure off from the other clutch packs. That should resolve the O.D issue from my experience. I would love to tell you everything will be good after installing a new end clutch setup and the transmission filter but it’s not a 100% guarantee. This is just the quickest and cheapest method to address what’s 100% visually defective and lines up with the symptoms you have expressed. Now if you still have symptoms after that an overhaul will be required.

Thank you Brandon for the help truly, this gives me a good place to start. I will attempt to replace the clutch pack with ITP parts, along with new fluid, gasket for oil pan and filter. I have the 1992 Talon/Laser service manuals, and it says to fill with 4 liters of ATF. Is that too much? What I had drained out is probably less than a quarter of that, and I don't want to overwhelm the system especially after replacing parts. I only drained the pan, so if I undo the other plug and drain the remaining fluid, will it all fill via the dipstick hole? Should I go a quart at a time with the dipstick as reference having only drained the pan? Attached photo for reference.

steve said:
I wouldn't be too surprised if the other clutches were also worn out.

I would not be either, given how disgusting everything is. If the aforementioned advice doesn't solve my symptoms, would this be my next step? Does this require me to drop my transmission assembly to access? Do the solenoids factor in at all?

I appreciate the help and corrections, and I know I have many questions that cannot be guaranteed but all I'm looking for is the next steps even if it's not a cakewalk. Thanks

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Brandon Mau · Aug 5, 2026

92PLazer said:
Thank you Brandon for the help truly, this gives me a good place to start. I will attempt to replace the clutch pack with ITP parts, along with new fluid, gasket for oil pan and filter. I have the 1992 Talon/Laser service manuals, and it says to fill with 4 liters of ATF. Is that too much? What I had drained out is probably less than a quarter of that, and I don't want to overwhelm the system especially after replacing parts. I only drained the pan, so if I undo the other plug and drain the remaining fluid, will it all fill via the dipstick hole? Should I go a quart at a time with the dipstick as reference having only drained the pan? Attached photo for reference.

I would not be either, given how disgusting everything is. If the aforementioned advice doesn't solve my symptoms, would this be my next step? Does this require me to drop my transmission assembly to access? Do the solenoids factor in at all?

I appreciate the help and corrections, and I know I have many questions that cannot be guaranteed but all I'm looking for is the next steps even if it's not a cakewalk. Thanks

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I would pull the front differential drain plug as well as you stated. Start out with 1 gallon, start the car, put it through every gear on jack-stands to get the fluid pumping through the entire thing. Then put it in neutral running and add fluid depending how it looks on the dipstick until you get between cold/hot. After everytime you add fluid go through the same process of putting it in every position on the gear selector. This will give you the most accurate reading.

92PLazer · 2026-08-27T15:30:45-0500

Wow, everyone. This has been a journey for me.

To make a long story short, I dropped the pan and drained from torque converter as well. I let it drip for a few days, got about half a gallon out of the system. The gasket on the pan was, needless to say, cooked. Spent a few hours scraping that off. Unfortunately, the NAPA trans filter was not a fit on my vehicle. I think that is my mistake, I labelled this thread for a F4A33 when my transmission is a F4A22. Not to worry, ordered a filter/gasket kit from Oregon Performance Transmission, and it fit like a charm.

The end clutch assembly was fun. Took it all apart, the seal on the outside of my piston was shredded, indication of overtravel within the drum. Refit with new seals, clutch and steel plates, and all the gunk cleaned. Dumped in a gallon of ATF 4, following the advice of Brandon I shifted through gears on jackstands and the car grips on reverse and drive almost immediately now. Truly the most responsive the shifting has been since owning the car. Took her on the road, engaged 4th gear and she drives like a champ.

I would love to say I did it on my own, I had help from family and friends putting this assembly together and the invaluable information provided from this community, seriously I cannot thank you all enough. You helped me get my car back, and I learned so much important info about my vehicle. Attached photos and video of assembly/performance.

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miliman13 · 2026-08-27T20:03:36-0500

Great news

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