ECMlink First post! ECU question

TuskeeTuner · Jul 11, 2026

One picture there was a green valve cover - another unpainted. :confused:

That wiring harness looked like a giant mess. Do you have any check engine lights? Do you have any electrical problems?

Did you install the ECMLink software onto your laptop? It comes on a CD or maybe a download. The factory injectors require a resistor box otherwise the ECU will "burn up."

Like the Wiseman said; you need to figure out EVERYTHING and ANYTHING that's installed onto that car. Pull wiring diagrams, Haynes manual, anything you can find about how these cars work. You can have lots of "discussions" here, and get a few useful fill-in-the-blanks, but you're gonna have to make all the discoveries.

The guy you bought the car from could have started out with a perfectly running car and then butchered it.

DP_52 said:
A stock one also the turbo from what I can tell is stock also.

Does the T28 come with a "stock-looking" compressor cover like a 68HTA or Bastard 20G? Some turbos on these cars can appear stock, but you might not know unless you either drive the car, or pull the intake pipe and look at the compressor wheel.

Unless you have an adjustable FPR and fuel pressure gauge, the fuel pump isn't that critical right now.

DP_52 said:
So I swapped the plugs and made the changes in DSM Link it cranks and wants to start but doesn’t…

I don't understand...it cranks but "wants" to start? And fails?

DP_52 said:
As for the config.

It’s just the non-95/96 CAS in the MISC on DSM link and swapping plugs to 3-2-1-4 correct?

DP_52 said:
Here ya go boss

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That wiring looks like a rat's nest. These cars are 100% intolerant of wiring errors.

tschuhly · Jul 12, 2026

I agree with everything that is said here.
Something else specific to check would be the fuel pump wiring. Has bit been upgraded to handle the higher draw or is it stock. I know you said that you reverted back to stock but if the person before you had something else in there and didn't rewire the pump, it could have burnt up those wires.

All in all, ECMLink will be the biggest help in figuring problems out but as was said prior, first you need to figure out what's in the car

DP_52 · Jul 12, 2026

TuskeeTuner said:
One picture there was a green valve cover - another unpainted...
That wiring harness looked like a giant mess. Do you have any check engine lights? Do you have any electrical problems? Did you install the ECMLink software onto your laptop? It comes on a CD or maybe a download. The factory injectors require a resistor box otherwise the ECU will "burn up."
Like the Wiseman said; you need to figure out EVERYTHING and ANYTHING that's installed onto that car. Pull wiring diagrams, Haynes manual, anything you can find about how these cars work. You can have lots of "discussions" here, and get a few useful fill-in-the-blanks, but you're gonna have to make all the discoveries.
The guy you bought the car from could have started out with a perfectly running car and then butchered it.

Does the T28 come with a "stock-looking" compressor cover like a 68HTA or Bastard 20G? Some turbos on these cars can appear stock, but you might not know unless you either drive the car, or pull the intake pipe and look at the compressor wheel.

Unless you have an adjustable FPR and fuel pressure gauge, the fuel pump isn't that critical right now.

I don't understand...it cranks but "wants" to start? And fails?

That wiring looks like a rat's nest. These cars are 100% intolerant of wiring errors.

Yeah one was from the day I got the car home. I've spent about 2/3 weeks going through it.

I had to cut away all the electrical tape etc to check the wires a few of them had breaks near the plugs and one was shorting out which I was able to find.

The only CEL is when the non-DSMLink ECU is in the car and running it was a P1104 turbo wastegate solenoid.

The guy who I bought the car from said "Him and his friend couldn't get it running." When I got home in order to get it to run was replace the fouled spark plugs then clear the cylinders.

Yes with the DSMLink socketed ECU and plugs changed the car will crank and crank and for a split second sound like it might fire up. With the bone stock ECU and 2G spark plug wire arrangement it will fire up and run rough.

It may look like a mess but I was going through it to test and check all the wires and connections. I moved the plugs and PTU to an easier spot to test them. I plan on redoing it and cleaning it up a lot.

tschuhly said:
I agree with everything that is said here.
Something else specific to check would be the fuel pump wiring. Has bit been upgraded to handle the higher draw or is it stock. I know you said that you reverted back to stock but if the person before you had something else in there and didn't rewire the pump, it could have burnt up those wires.

All in all, ECMLink will be the biggest help in figuring problems out but as was said prior, first you need to figure out what's in the car

From what I could tell the fuel pump I swapped out was a stock one. The fuel pressure gauge was reading low so I swapped it.

pauleyman · Jul 12, 2026

Did you swap the firing order when switching ECUs?
Fuel pressure gauge suggests it has an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Does it?
Still waiting on clear pics of turbo. Can't tell if that's stock or not or at least stock frame.

DP_52 · Jul 12, 2026

I did swap the firing order. There’s a gauge but the fuel pressure regulator is stock

TuskeeTuner · Jul 13, 2026

DP_52 said:
I did swap the firing order. There’s a gauge but the fuel pressure regulator is stock

Fuel pressure for a 2G should read 43psi, correct me if I'm wrong as I own a 1G. You fixed one problem, a stock regulator should not be installed with an aftermarket pump. People say you can get away using a stock regulator with a rewired Walbro 190LPH, but at this point, why?

That could also explain why your spark plugs were fouled. An aftermarket pump will overrun a factory regulator so that could actually be two problems you've fixed.

If you have a chance - try and post an ECMLink log so we can see your VE table.

tschuhly said:
I agree with everything that is said here.
Something else specific to check would be the fuel pump wiring. Has bit been upgraded to handle the higher draw or is it stock. I know you said that you reverted back to stock but if the person before you had something else in there and didn't rewire the pump, it could have burnt up those wires.

This is 100% correct. My 1G had burnt contacts on the MPI relay because the previous hack mechanic owner ran an aftermarket pump on stock wiring, not sure how the car didn't catch on fire. His solution to the damaged wiring was even worse.

DP_52 · Jul 13, 2026

Just to reiterate, I highly appreciate everyone's input!

And to give a clear picture, here's everything I've done

Changed CAS, CPS, PTU, Stock ECU, Fuel Pump, MPI Relay, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket

I swapped the stock ECU (non DSM Link) and changed the plugs back to the 4-1-2-3 configuration and it fires right back up and runs a little rough and when you press the gas it sputters. Sometimes it dies.

Aftermarket parts I've found so far STILL on the car!

Greddy intercooler (piping at least)
MBC Apexi (in glove box) I don't think its wired up correctly or maybe the previous owner disconnected it during their troubleshooting
Greddy BOV
AEM Adjustable Cam gears

It runs really rough with how its currently configured, I did install an AEM wideband AFR gauge. When I get off work later I'll post a video of how the car sounds.

DP_52 · Aug 21, 2026

Just an update after returning from overseas.

Went to a MBC. AFR reads 20+ when idling but drops to the correct AFR of 14 on the AEM gauge.

So, now trying to chase down a rough idle. I'm planning on swapping the fuel filter because it reads around 30-34 PSI on the gauge.

Any other input for checking the fuel system?

I swapped it back to stock injectors, replaced the fuel pump. The only fuel filter is in the engine bay near the battery correct?

TuskeeTuner said:
Fuel pressure for a 2G should read 43psi...correct me if I'm wrong as I own a 1G. You fixed one problem...a stock regulator should not be installed with an aftermarket pump. People say you can get away using a stock regulator with a rewired Walbro 190LPH, but at this point, why...
That could also explain why your spark plugs were fouled. An aftermarket pump will overrun a factory regulator...so that could actually be two problems you've fixed.

If you have a chance - try and post an ECMLink log so we can see your VE table.

This is 100% correct. My 1G had burnt contacts on the MPI relay because the previous hack mechanic owner ran an aftermarket pump on stock wiring, not sure how the car didn't catch on fire. His solution to the damaged wiring was even worse.

I have the stock ECU in the car (unchipped). I still couldn't get it to run with the chipped ECU in the car

pauleyman · Aug 21, 2026

I posted earlier.
Does the car have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?
If so did you set it?
Please post pics of engine bay.
Hate to say this but this is the third time ive asked for pictures. If you want accurate help with diagnosis please help us help you.

DP_52 · Aug 21, 2026

Ill take some pictures in a sec.

No the fuel pressure regulator is stock. Whoever owned the car prior added a fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter.

pauleyman · Aug 21, 2026

Concerning your fuel pressure you must solve this. There is no point in diagnosis if your fuel pressure is 30psi.

DP_52 said:
Ill take some pictures in a sec.

No the fuel pressure regulator is stock. Whoever owned the car prior added a fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter.

Youre on the right track with the filter. Fuel pump inside the tank could also be suspect or at least how it is connected to the hanger.

I will also add check the brand on the gauge. If its some cheap Chinese gauge it is likely not to be trusted.

DP_52 · Aug 21, 2026

Ignore the mess of the wires currently cleaning up the bay and trying to relocate things.

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pauleyman · Aug 21, 2026

DP_52 said:
Ignore the mess of the wires currently cleaning up the bay and trying to relocate things.

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I would trace the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator. Something is tee'd off of it. Possible problem. Could we get a whole view of the bay also please? What fuel pump did you install? You mentioned it but its not in your profile. If you have the DSMLink cable now you could reinstall that ECU and check settings. Might point to why it didn't run. Could also return all settings to stock and then you have datalog ability. Your choice.

DP_52 · Aug 21, 2026

yes one second. Ill trace the line really quick and see where it goes.

I picked up a new stock one from O'Reilly's I think. I tried to replace everything back to stock

pauleyman said:
I would trace the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator. Something is tee'd off of it. Possible problem. Could we get a whole view of the bay also please? What fuel pump did you install? You mentioned it but its not in your profile. If you have the dsmlink cable now you could reinstall that ecu and check settings. Might point to why it didn't run. Could also return all settings to stock and then you have datalog ability. Your choice.

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pauleyman said:
I posted earlier.
Does the car have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?
If so did you set it?
Please post pics of engine bay.
Hate to say this but this is the third time ive asked for pictures. If you want accurate help with diagnosis please help us help you.

Sorry I didnt see your 3 replies.

No I didnt install the fuel pressure gauge.

I did install a new fuel pump (stock)

What do you mean installed on the hanger?

pauleyman · Aug 21, 2026

DP_52 said:
Sorry I didnt see your 3 replies.

No I didnt install the fuel pressure gauge.

I did install a new fuel pump (stock)

What do you mean installed on the hanger?

Fuel pumps are known to leak inside the tank. If i recall your 97 has a hose between the outlet of the pump and the fuel hanger?

DP_52 said:
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Please fix the fuel line on the regulator before trying to start again. Fire waiting to happen. You also have a potential air leak at the pcv hose where the hose clamp is pulled back

DP_52 · Sunday at 10:17 AM

pauleyman said:
Fuel pumps are known to leak inside the tank. If i recall your 97 has a hose between the outlet of the pump and the fuel hanger?

Please fix the fuel line on the regulator before trying to start again. Fire waiting to happen. You also have a potential air leak at the pcv hose where the hose clamp is pulled back

Fixed both of those issues.

Now trying to get the lines to the fuel filter off...

pauleyman said:
I would trace the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator. Something is tee'd off of it. Possible problem. Could we get a whole view of the bay also please? What fuel pump did you install? You mentioned it but its not in your profile. If you have the dsmlink cable now you could reinstall that ecu and check settings. Might point to why it didn't run. Could also return all settings to stock and then you have datalog ability. Your choice.

The line from the fuel pressure regulator goes straight to a sensor that the previous owner relocated

pauleyman · Sunday at 12:23 PM

DP_52 said:
Fixed both of those issues.

Now trying to get the lines to the fuel filter off...

The line from the fuel pressure regulator goes straight to a sensor that the previous owner relocated

Do NOT twist the line.

If you don't own one, get a line wrench/flare nut wrench. I have seen the flare nut rust to the line. Keep twisting and you will twist the line and then you've got a bigger problem. The line on the bottom is the problem. You can use a wrench on the filter and squeeze the two wrenches together. If you suspect the line is moving STOP!! At that point your only other option is to undo the bracket and screw the filter off.

The nut on the bottom of the filter is attached, its just a convenient place to hold when undoing the flare. You MUST pay attention to the line. If the flare gives you problems you will kink the line quickly. I'm talking 1/8th or a turn and you've already ruined it.

DP_52 · Monday at 1:05 PM

pauleyman said:
Do NOT twist the line.
If you don't own one, get a line wrench/flare nut wrench.

I was able to swap the fuel pump with zero issues using a line wrench.

Car runs better. Still had a rough idle.

I did disconnect the MAF and it leveled out...

Lastly, Do you have the link for the stock setting of the DSMLink ECU?

pauleyman · Monday at 1:36 PM

DP_52 said:
I was able to swap the fuel pump with zero issues using a line wrench.

Car runs better. Still had a rough idle.

I did disconnect the MAF and it leveled out...

Lastly, Do you have the link for the stock setting of the DSM Link ECU?

Doesn't really answer the question. Did your fuel pump assembly have a hose inside? Or a metal funnel thing with an oring. The latter are known to leak. If you haven't fixed fuel pressure that is still #1. What happened to MAF?

ItsTwan309 · Monday at 3:17 PM

What does your ignition timing look like? I saw you said that you swapped the CAS. Did you set it?

DP_52 · Wednesday at 11:31 AM

pauleyman said:
Doesn't really answer the question. Did your fuel pump assembly have a hose inside? Or a metal funnel thing with an oring. The latter are known to leak. If you haven't fixed fuel pressure that is still #1. What happened to maf?

Sorry, I have ADHD when I work on cars.

I swapped the fuel filter and its now running rich about a 10.1 or 10.3 AFR. When I replaced the fuel pump it had the hose inside.

When I finished the fuel filter it was running rough still. Checked the TB first to ensure it was clean.

Then disconnected the MAF and the idle smoothed out.

pauleyman · Wednesday at 3:13 PM

DP_52 said:
Then disconnected the MAF and the idle smoothed out.

Have you attempted to clean the MAF? If you haven’t, don't.

What about fuel pressure? What is it now?

DP_52 · 2026-08-27T19:14:12-0500

pauleyman said:
What about fuel pressure? What is it now?

I'm pretty sure the gauge the previous owner installed is junk... and is stuck at 30 something PSI and hasn't moved at all

Currently the car is running rich at idle around a 10.2 to 10.4 AFR on the AEM gauge I picked up and hooked it up to the O2 sensor before the CAT

ItsTwan309 said:
What does your ignition timing look like? I saw you said that you swapped the cas. did you set it?

I did not...

pauleyman · 2026-08-27T21:25:32-0500

DP_52 said:
I'm pretty sure the gauge the previous owner installed is junk... and is stuck at 30 something PSI and hasn't moved at all

Currently the car is running rich at idle around a 10.2 to 10.4 AFR on the AEM gauge I picked up and hooked it up to the O2 sensor before the CAT

So you changed out the sensor to a wideband?

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