This is what mine has. Let me know if the pics aren't good enough.

Might be easier to get an aftermarket one that is adjustable. You can get ones that have a “s” shape to them and would help with the issue you are having I’d think.

-Daniel

tschuhly said:

This is what mine has. Let me know if the pics aren't good enough.

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That looks close to what I was thinking for orientation. Do you happen to have pics of it from the face of the compressor?

99dsmer4g63 said:

Might be easier to get an aftermarket one that is adjustable. You can get ones that have a “s” shape to them and would help with the issue you are having I’d think.

-Daniel

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Yea that was another option. The t25 actuator i have would likely fit - it had a bend and larger rod. I would still need to fabricate some kind of bracket.

athlete3344 said:

That looks close to what I was thinking for orientation. Do you happen to have pics of it from the face of the compressor?

Click to expand...

I don't really think I can get a good angle for a picture for you, but something I just realized is mine has a j-pipe on it and the wastegate rod goes in between the j-pipe and the compressor housing whereas yours has the intake integrated into the compressor housing which might make it not possible for this setup.
Maybe you could clock the compressor housing differently to point straight down instead of angled towards the front?

Yea I was just thinking about that. I think I need to get a rough idea of where my IC pipes run.

All of this was bought like 10 years ago, which is part of the problem.

The thing with IC pipe is you can kind of adjust it to match up with where the inlet is. I'd say get that mocked up and the answer to the WG will problem become easier.

Appreciate the back and forth, this all helped a bunch. I did find another thread w someone detailing a bracket a bit but some pics were missing. I think I have a decent idea of what to make it out of though.

Ill post an update here when I get it right.

Good quality pics on this Kinugawa web page might help, using the zig-zag type of rod.

I run a Kinagawa WG on a E16G turbo. It uses a J-pipe tho.

True, I was looking at the brackets they sold yesterday. Maybe later ill get one for the 20g the mention and see if i can make it work.

Im fairly confident that I can bend the rod I currently have to make it work. Plenty of practice from making new brake lines and getting a stock 1g oil feed to fit just right.

Thanks!

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

I run a Kinagawa WG on a E16G turbo.

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Marty what spring do you have in the Kinu actuator?

I had it open YEARS ago BUT, I bought a Blue spring for it about a year ago. Its the 1.5 bar. Here, I got a picture, but to answer your question, I don't know and when I had it on my bastard 20g, I can't remember what it would hold back then. I was thinking just 1 bar.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

I had it open YEARS ago BUT, I bought a Blue spring for it about a year ago. Its the 1.5 bar. Here, I got a picture, but to answer your question, I don't know and when I had it on my bastard 20g, I can't remember what it would hold back then. I was thinking just 1 bar.

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Ok thanks!

Yall got me rethinking my path forward now.

I was going to go external wg for 2 reasons, boost creep and reading that the o2 dump is going to be obnoxiously loud.

It sounds like id be able to control boost fairly well with the right wg actuator/spring setup and an upgraded o2 housing that recircs back into the exhaust. Is this accurate? I'd like to not spend the money on an external setup if possible.

I was initially going to use whatever actuator I had to get this thing running and deal with any boost issues later.

I use a stronger spring for my Bastard 20G. With a 15deg clip - the spike is managed, and it needs a stronger spring to get more than 18psi out of it.

Thanks Justin, I appreciate the feedback. Ill probably go a couple steps at a time for this. The goal right now is to get the motor dropped in and running in the next month or so. Might try the actuator I have on hand to see what happens, then go from there.

I also saw that maybe switching to a tdo6h housing and wheel solves the backpressure issues too.

@We're on Boost thanks for sharing and asking for some additional input!

athlete3344 said:

I also saw that maybe switching to a tdo6h housing and wheel solves the backpressure issues too.

Click to expand...

I expect it would solve the backpressure issue, but the TD06H turbine wheel is pretty big, probably more laggy than what most people would want with a 20G on a 2-liter engine.

I think my wheel pick would be the TD06SL2 turbine wheel. But to put together a TD06SL2-20G turbo in DSM configuration that fits and works, from genuine MHI parts, you'd probably need some help from a good turbo configurator/rebuilder, somebody like "Jus Turbos" in Greensburg, PA. The TD06SL2 wheel is about 5mm bigger diameter than the TD05H wheel, and it's about 5mm smaller than the TD06H (or SH) wheel. I don't know what you would use for a housing.

If you look at the versions of 20G that are sold by Greddy, 2 of them use the TD06SL2 wheel, and 2 of them use the TD06SH wheel. The Greddy chart shows that none of the 20G turbos they sell use a TD05H wheel. The biggest turbo they sell with a TD05H is an 18G.

TD06SL2-20G clone turbos in DSM configuration are made by Kinugawa and Mamba, both in Taiwan.

You probably already know this - when it comes to DSM configuration turbos that fit and work, that's what Forced Performance is known for.
The FP Green for example (the regular Green, not the UHF Green) uses the turbine wheel from the MHI TF06-18K turbo which is an upgrade turbo for the EvoX, designed by MHI collab with Forced Performance, according to Wyatt at FP, around 15 years ago, so a lot more modern than the TD0 series wheels. The Green is a little bigger than any 20G but it fits and works right out of the box.

Couple of shots from the Greddy website here. Picture file names are the description.

We're on Boost said:

I expect it would solve the backpressure issue, but the TD06H turbine wheel is pretty big, probably more laggy than what most people would want with a 20G on a 2-liter engine.

I think my wheel pick would be the TD06SL2 turbine wheel. But to put together a TD06SL2-20G turbo in DSM configuration that fits and works, from genuine MHI parts, you'd probably need some help from a good turbo configurator/rebuilder, somebody like "Jus Turbos" in Greensburg, PA. The TD06SL2 wheel is about 5mm bigger diameter than the TD05H wheel, and it's about 5mm smaller than the TD06H (or SH) wheel. I don't know what you would use for a housing.

If you look at the versions of 20G that are sold by Greddy, 2 of them use the TD06SL2 wheel, and 2 of them use the TD06SH wheel. The Greddy chart shows that none of the 20G turbos they sell use a TD05H wheel. The biggest turbo they sell with a TD05H is an 18G.

TD06SL2-20G clone turbos in DSM configuration are made by Kinugawa and Mamba, both in Taiwan.

You probably already know this - when it comes to DSM configuration turbos that fit and work, that's what Forced Performance is known for.
The FP Green for example (the regular Green, not the UHF Green) uses the turbine wheel from the MHI TF06-18K turbo which is an upgrade turbo for the EvoX, designed by MHI collab with Forced Performance, according to Wyatt at FP, around 15 years ago, so a lot more modern than the TD0 series wheels. The Green is a little bigger than any 20G but it fits and works right out of the box.

Couple of shots from the Greddy website here. Picture file names are the description.

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Click to expand...

This was a great read. Honestly, digging into different turbo designs is something I havnt done too much of, but it looks like ill be adding this topic to my list of things to learn more about.