Starting this project from an idea Jake Montgomery did for his car but for the 3K rear diff.

Last year I broke 2 OEM U-joints on the tail section of my driveshaft and we know the cost of the OEM parts are getting ridiculous these days, not to mention availability. I already have the DSS carbon fiber front section so those are solid, this is the weak point in the drivetrain currently. I know a full CF shaft now exists from DSS and I already spoke to them about converting mine but they said it would be better to sell it and buy a whole new one

So here is the parts list needed, sourced from driveshaftparts.com, I ordered 2 of each because I plan to make a spare.







Jake's for reference:



Shipping it out today, hoping to have it back next week

What Hyundai is that off of?

The timing of this is immaculate. I may go for it as well. How’d you choose who to rebuild it for you? Just any willing local mechanic shop?

So this is for a 3k rear or stock 2g?

+1 on who did you choose the build it for you? This is a great idea. I dont like the 1 piece driveshaft, but with the upgraded 2 piece your still limited by the ujoints obviously.

GHSTII said:

The timing of this is immaculate. I may go for it as well. How’d you choose who to rebuild it for you? Just any willing local mechanic shop?

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Wow, sorry I neglected to update this thread for so long, my bad.

I just had a local driveshaft place do it. It needs to be re-balanced after so it needs to be someone who does them.

TJCTalon said:

So this is for a 3k rear or stock 2g?

+1 on who did you choose the build it for you? This is a great idea. I dont like the 1 piece driveshaft, but with the upgraded 2 piece your still limited by the ujoints obviously.

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You can get the flange for either 3k or 1g/2g.

This is ideally used with a 2 piece driveshaft, where the front 2 are already upgraded. The DSS shafts already use 1310 series so basically it will now be the same u-joint for all.

Here's my finished shaft, ran it all of 2024 with consistent low 1.4x 60's without a single issue.

jdxnc said:

Starting this project from an idea Jake Montgomery did for his car but for the 3K rear diff.

Last year I broke 2 OEM U-joints on the tail section of my driveshaft and we know the cost of the OEM parts are getting ridiculous these days, not to mention availability. I already have the DSS carbon fiber front section so those are solid, this is the weak point in the drivetrain currently. I know a full CF shaft now exists from DSS and I already spoke to them about converting mine but they said it would be better to sell it and buy a whole new one

So here is the parts list needed, sourced from driveshaftparts.com, I ordered 2 of each because I plan to make a spare.

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Jake's for reference:

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Shipping it out today, hoping to have it back next week

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When you say a full carbon fiber one exists from DSS, is that still available and what is the HP rating, also a link please? (Obviously im going to look on my own but for anyone reading the thread maybe for future readers)

Misterflipster said:

When you say a full carbon fiber one exists from DSS, is that still available and what is the HP rating, also a link please? (Obviously im going to look on my own but for anyone reading the thread maybe for future readers)

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You'd find it here:

I may have misunderstood, this is till just a 2 piece setup though huh, not a single. Sad times. (Dont care if its carbon fiber or not, just looking to eliminate the rear shaft issues in general, but seems like the flange upgrade may help mitigate some vibration though)

Misterflipster said:

I may have misunderstood, this is till just a 2 piece setup though huh, not a single. Sad times. (Dont care if its carbon fiber or not, just looking to eliminate the rear shaft issues in general, but seems like the flange upgrade may help mitigate some vibration though)

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It's power rating is more than we need to worry about, it's the exact part Boostin is running on the Red Demon. DSS explained it's not good to do a single shaft for our cars due to the alignment(if you look, the diff and tcase aren't perfectly aligned.

jdxnc said:

DSS explained it's not good to do a single shaft for our cars due to the alignment(if you look, the diff and tcase aren't perfectly aligned.

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I was going to say that the 1-piece design has been known to not be ideal for these cars because of the alignment.

I personally would love a step by step how to tech article for this with part number references. I have the aluminum DSS shaft and would like to do this but am like , what do I do? .

DreamChaser7 said:

I personally would love a step by step how to tech article for this with part number references. I have the aluminum DSS shaft and would like to do this but am like , what do I do? .

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All you're doing is changing the very rear U-joint out for a 1310 joint. The 3 part numbers listed in the OP are the flange that bolts to the rear diff, the 1310 u-joint, and the yoke that will be welded into the very end of the rear shaft replacing the stock yoke so that it will accept the new 1310 joint that then goes with the new rear flange. Driveshaft shop should be able to easily knock this out for someone wanting to do it.

I was hoping to do this as well since my driveshaft is missing the pinion flange yoke. However, it seems the FY131098 yoke is no longer available. Any chance you still have a factory yoke you’d sell? Or maybe that extra 1310 yoke you bought for a spare… if that didn’t get made!

Did you contact DriveshaftParts.com to see when they may get more? Their website simply says "out of stock." Doesn't necessarily mean it's no longer available at all.

Drewpy Dawg said:

Did you contact DriveshaftParts.com to see when they may get more? Their website simply says "out of stock." Doesn't necessarily mean it's no longer available at all.

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I did fill out a contact form regarding the part. I have not yet heard back, most likely due to it being the weekend. Yeah, poor wording I suppose. Maybe not “no longer available” just out of stock everywhere I look haha.

ive also read of people converting the OEM 3 piece shaft into a 2 piece by eliminating the front carrier. Any capable driveshaft shop does the conversion, then you can get a jxb for the rear carrier and combined with this ujoint upgrade i think most would be pretty solid.

From a little searching it looks like the Hyundai yoke may be from an H100 truck. They were never sold in the US but have been in production around the world for decades. If that’s the case then those yokes won’t be going out of production any time soon, it’s just a matter of getting a supply of them to the US.

Drewpy Dawg said:

From a little searching it looks like the Hyundai yoke may be from an H100 truck. They were never sold in the US but have been in production around the world for decades. If that’s the case then those yokes won’t be going out of production any time soon, it’s just a matter of getting a supply of them to the US.

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Nice! I spent a good hour or so trying to figure out which vehicle(s) that yoke was intended for and just couldn’t find it. Still no response yet on when they will be in stock.

Sorry I only ever bought 2 of them, one of myself and a friend. As stated, they'll probably come back in stock, I'd call them.

NOMIEZVR4 said:

ive also read of people converting the OEM 3 piece shaft into a 2 piece by eliminating the front carrier. Any capable driveshaft shop does the conversion, then you can get a jxb for the rear carrier and combined with this ujoint upgrade i think most would be pretty solid.

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That's pretty much what I'm going to do with mine. Have a front shaft made that replaces the first two OE shafts and just use a single carrier bearing. I want to use the 1310 flange yoke at the diff as well. Not that I'll need that beefy of a u-joint at my power level or usage. but a stronger than stock joint that is cheap and readily available everywhere is a nice upgrade to make while I'm in there. The yoke at the transfer case is more difficult. I'm not interested in spending hundreds for a 1310 slip yoke that would also require the 300M output shaft. I'm going to use a stock yoke and u-joint at the front and if a more economical 1310 slip yoke becomes available someday I can just have the stock yoke lopped off the shaft and a 1310 yoke welded on.