2 shims behind ball, solved my issues.

bastarddsm said:

Oh and if you have a full braided line from the master to the slave throw that in the f***in trash, and use the shortest flex line possible.

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By flex line do you mean hydraulic hose?

I've been interested for a while in trying an accumulator off a 2ga. Thoughts on those? They don't seem to be a common thing on other cars looking around Google.

I just want to add that when welding the pedal it is important to weld it in the position with the slack out of it. My experience is if you weld it in the worn position you probably won't get much help with the master. I'm not sure why this isn't talked about more. Seems like alot of people weld their pedal and they still have issues.

xn35 said:

I just want to add that when welding the pedal it is important to weld it in the position with the slack out of it. My experience is if you weld it in the worn position you probably won't get much help with the master. I'm not sure why this isn't talked about more. Seems like alot of people weld their pedal and they still have issues.

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Great point.

Stapl3 said:

Stapl3 said:

By flex line do you mean hydraulic hose?

I've been interested for a while in trying an accumulator off a 2ga. Thoughts on those? They don't seem to be a common thing on other cars looking around Google.

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Yes, just use the short one that goes from the frame rail to the transmission. the flex hoses swell under pressure, it's a small amount, but when you are on the edge every little bit helps.

As for the 2g accumulator, guys use that to soften the blow of a twin disc, at least that was the thought back in the oughts and 10's. I've not used one but I don't suspect it will help clutch disengagement.

There is no 1 thing that is the silver bullet. It's system and needs to be treated like one.

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xn35 said:

I just want to add that when welding the pedal it is important to weld it in the position with the slack out of it. My experience is if you weld it in the worn position you probably won't get much help with the master. I'm not sure why this isn't talked about more. Seems like alot of people weld their pedal and they still have issues.

Click to expand...

You can take it a step further and clock it farther so you can get even more master travel than stock. Remember that the pedals flex a lot, and if you are bottoming the master with it unloaded, you are probably not with a load on it.

I fix a bunch of these for people and sell a lot of my wilwood master kits because it fixes the problem. But noise to signal ratio here is bad and everyone listens to the guys with non running cars about freaking out over 0.005" step height and nonsense.

Big ole heavy single disc going 1-2 at 9500 and 2-3 at 8800. Single synchro pos used parts 90 trans. The step height was far far from the oem spec, but it was where it should be to shift better.....

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