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Project: EFI SWAP What do I need to make it work?

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heres a screen capture of the log
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and a video, The live capture seems to always freeze after about 40sec. Im chasing with the throttle trying to keep it running
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heres pics of the throttle, and an overall shot in
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case anyone was wondering

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Oh sorry I didnt know you wanted the actual file, Ill try to attach it:
 

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I see, your TPS voltage is seriously messed. I can't tell how you have wired it from the pictures.

How big are your injectors? I found you saying 265cc earlier but the ECU is configured for about 621cc. If they are the Bosch 265cc high impedance injectors your Fuel Global is way wrong.
 
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heres a file with the engine NOT running. you see the Voltage and % work with the engine off. Nothing else was changed. this is what it did before. Engine on, doesnt work :idontknow:
 

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Ook, so thinking back, I did something with the Throttle, My wiring harness is from a Non turbo. and I had to either switch the plug or that throttle is from a 2G??? can you tell?
 
No, I can't see the wiring to the TPS and how it been run to the ECU. 1G or 2G TPS isn't the issue ATM. The TPS wiring is the same for both the Turbo and NT 4G63 harness from 91 to 94.

The 2G TPS provides an internal Idle Position Switch on pin 3 but the other pins are the same.

Pin 1 is the +5v sensor power from the ECU pin 23
Pin 2 is the TPS output voltage going to ECU pin 19
Pin 4 is the sensor ground from the ECU pins 24 and 17

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It's very important that sensor power and ground from the ECU are used and that you don't hang a bunch of other sensors off either of these. Normally only The MAF and the TPS draw from the sensor power feed and the EGR (California only) and Engine Coolant Temp sensors additionally connect to the sensor ground.

I don't know when I'm going to get out to my place in Boulder to check on things but if you're still messing with this then I'll see if I can swing by.
 

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dang it, the wiring appears to be correct and there is nothing else connected to those wires, they go direct to the ECU. This is quite perplexing
what else could it be?
 
any other thoughts as to what to check?

also ive tried emailing ECUlink several times over the past few weeks with ZERO response :-(
 
I just tried something, what do you think:
So I just connected up the New TPS, But I did not install it (as this was just a test). I turned on the Live data, and checked that it worked. Then I had a friend start the car, and actuated the new TPS by hand, and it did appear to work/read on he data stream (while also moving the throttle with my hand (that was tricky).
Bottom line, the new TPS did work while the engine was running. (but not installed, so Im afraid, I install it....and im back to square one!)
 
Tonight I went and pulled the throttle off (have to remove the TB to remove the TPS) and after I pulled the original I noticed the Original has 4 contacts and the New one has 3?
Also I doubt this had any affect, but You can see I had to sand some of the upper corners off as it was hitting the intake runner, but I didnt break through the epoxy filler, so I dont think this was any issue.

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I see, your TPS voltage is seriously messed. I can't tell how you have wired it from the pictures.

How big are your injectors? I found you saying 265cc earlier but the ECU is configured for about 621cc. If they are the Bosch 265cc high impedance injectors your Fuel Global is way wrong.
Sorry missed that about the injectors earlier. Yes I went and bought the Bosch injectors from a Porsche 997 turbo, which are 630cc. Im not sure what I have the settings at now, Ill have to hook it up and check
 

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The difference between the three and four pins is that the three pin TPS is for a 1G that has an external Idle Position Switch and the four pin is for a 2G that has an internal IPS in the TPS. If your not using the IPS inside it doesn't matter.

So with the new TPS connected you didn't see the issue you were having when the engine was on?
 
The difference between the three and four pins is that the three pin TPS is for a 1G that has an external Idle Position Switch and the four pin is for a 2G that has an internal IPS in the TPS. If your not using the IPS inside it doesn't matter.

So with the new TPS connected you didn't see the issue you were having when the engine was on?
thats correct, but again i was holding it in my hand, manually moving it. I just dont understand why the original one would work with the engine off but not when it started
 
Ok, Im just going to install the new one. Can you clarify, do I use the 1g or 2g method for setting the TPS?
 
Well, I put in the new TPS, and seems the same result, works when engine off, but no reading with engine on. This is driving me nuts and I have other cars to work on! Had do do an oil change on my DD on top of my friend's parking garage!

Starting to think this ECMLink stuff is garbage. Not to mention their website keeps timing out, and have gotten ZERO reply from multiple emails. are they even still in business? And the program keeps freezing during live feed. Only works for about 10sec then the program stops responding :-(
 
We all here know that ECMLink isn't garbage so it would seem that other things might be.

You have come a log way doing something nobody else has tried and pretty far from a normal DSM. I know it's frustrating but pioneers often take a few arrows along the way.

Since the TPS wasn't doing this before when it's loose there must be something about how the TPS is mounted that is introducing this behaviour.
 
I may have caught something; I decided to do some testing with the old multimeter: on the TPS system
grounding to the engine. I put the Pos+ the Green/red wire. It shows 5v, start the car, still shows 5v.
Next I tap in to the Green/white. key on/engine off. 0.5V.....full 5.0V...seems normal. I start the car and the Voltage seems to still bethere and going up as I increase the throttle. (but as we already know, the ECU doesnt see it after the car is started :-(

I decided to test at the ECU. I find the green/white wire. and it shows 0 volts. (TPS still shows 0.5V) so I think well its the wrong wire, but there are no other green/white wires at the ECU???
Looking around I follow a another green/white wire to Connector C67. THAT wire tests 0.5V... But C67 isnt plugged into anything??

and thats where I ran out of energy, But seems like something!
I hope that is a good clue. thoughts please.
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I'd test the conductivity from end to end of those wires. If you need to, make an extension for your multimeter to reach between the two points. From a quick look in the 91 FSM there is a green/white wire that runs to C-24 (which is downstream of C-67) but I didn't find a pinout of C-67 itself.
 
C67 seems a bit elusive.
I don't see C-24 anywhere on the diagram? what does that connect to?
I think im just going to run the wire direct from the TPS to the ECU, and bypass whatever C67 is supposed to connect to, should work, no?
 
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