Sounds like your master cylinder is adjusted too far out and causing a "pump up" effect where it doesn't bleed excess pressure back into the reservoir. It causes the engagement point to move higher and higher, until the clutch starts slipping.
Jack explains it here, starts about 2:20

Well, a few answers

The clutch engagement point is based on the master rod length. Usually if it’s not adjusted to exact spec you will notice engagement slowly changing. It will catch at one point for a day or two of driving and then the next day it will engage lower. The rod length basically has to be calibrated exactly or the car master will slowly calibrate itself to that area and you will have to gradually make the length longer or shorter till the master is happy

It’s hard to find a new oem master cylinder, I believe I bought the last one from extreme psi 3 years ago. It’s possible the master cylinder you used is slightly defective and will eventually get worse. Basically one of the seals internal to the master cylinder is defective which causes a small pressure leak which eventually will cause the master to leak fluid. See if your fluid level has changed at all since install

There is a spring that goes from the fender side of the clutch pedal itself. It would be unusual the return spring would have a sporadic issue though

My bet is leaning towards defective master cylinder, my auto parts store master cylinder did “fine” for 3 years until it started really getting funky.

So, got some answers and even more questions.

I always had and still have issues with clutch. I tried everything and its still acting weird for me. Before changing the clutch line is had the same exact issue. That's why is suspected something was wrong with the clutch line. But not.

Adjusted the rod more inward. (Pedal goes more to the floor) It is now release close to 1 inch from the floor. Still having the same issue as before.

It really really feels like a empty pedal the first 30%, while usually u feel that u already pushing liquid. Just like air in the line. But as I never had it and suddenly became apparent while still having the hard-line, I highly doubt it is air.

Both salve and master have been changed 1.5 years ago (5000miles max) for exedy (as far as I know, closest to OEM) so I highly doubt it could be that either.

Checked the fluid over the last 2 days and didn't change even .1 inch. Still the exact same level.


Is it possible that there is an internal leak in the master or slave. Like if the slave/master piston is leaking while keeping it in the system?

Did you push the air out of the slave cylinder by doing this: "Step Two: Next have person..." here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772.

So I just noticed something pretty weird.
Drove another 30 miles and the clutch only starts acting up after sharp corners or roundabouts. Straight driving is completely fine.
I tested it by going about 30 mph and turning the wheel sharply left and right. Every time I do that, the clutch pedal drops straight to the floor and I can barely get it into the next gear, sometimes with a bit of gear grind.
Then if I pump the clutch once, everything goes back to normal like nothing happened.
So yeah… what the hell is going on here?
Is this actually being affected by G forces in the clutch system or am I missing something obvious?

No i have not tried bleeding the slave. I will try that asap. But its weird that it just randomly started. After 3000miles of good clutch

MattiaFTW said:

So I just noticed something pretty weird.
Drove another 30 miles and the clutch only starts acting up after sharp corners or roundabouts. Straight driving is completely fine.
I tested it by going about 30 mph and turning the wheel sharply left and right. Every time I do that, the clutch pedal drops straight to the floor and I can barely get it into the next gear, sometimes with a bit of gear grind.
Then if I pump the clutch once, everything goes back to normal like nothing happened.
So yeah… what the hell is going on here?
Is this actually being affected by G forces in the clutch system or am I missing something obvious?

Click to expand...

Oh man, that was happening to a local guy a long time ago in another group. I want to say it was loose or missing transmission bolts. Unfortunately I think it was actually a crankwalk symptom. I hope not for your sake, but it would be better to diagnose now.

I found this in an old 2005 archive:
Some early warning symptoms associated with crankwalk:
1. Clutch weirdness, improper pedal pressure, strange disengage and engage points
2. Ticking or strange noise from the pulley side of the engine when clutch is depressed.
3. Crank Angle Sensor errors ( check engine light )
4. Difficulty shifting
5. RPMS decreasing significantly when clutch pedal is depressed.
6. Clutch does not return or "sticks" to the floor after being depressed.
EDIT:
7. Clutch does not return or “sticks” to the floor during left hand turns

Reference:

FAQ : What is Crankwalk?

Crankwalk is a term given to excessive play between your crankshaft and thrust bearing, which will put excessive side load or uneven load on your bearings and in time could break your crank positio…

prostreetonline.wordpress.com

Guys....

I think you right

Oh boy oh boy, i got a juicy one today.

Found this at the bottom of the pan

MattiaFTW said:

Oh boy oh boy, i got a juicy one today.

Found this at the bottom of the pan

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Click to expand...

Bad news but at least you found the problem.

FYI - Jafros videos on crankwalk:


Interesting "often missing crankwalk bolt" at 12:02-15:02: