This is the Build Thread for Red Redemption. Reply below.

Red Redemption is my 3rd DSM, and my second 91 Eagle Talon, but the story starts even before I owned a DSM. When I was roughly 8 years old my neighbor had 3 of them, and the first day I saw his car I knew I was going to have one some day. That day came when I was about 16 years old (2011) when I got My first DSM . It was a Red 1991 Plymouth laser non turbo. I purchased it as a shell, from a friend of my brothers, but unfortunately I never got it running due to the fact that I bought a 91 talon tsi AWD a couple months later. As a 17 year old I managed to manual swap it, and drove it around for a little, but it seemed to be haunted, and broke down every way possible. (My own doings I was young and inexperienced.) I ended up selling it to a friend that parted it out and junked it due to the body rotting out. Fast forward 11 years, and here we are. The start of the redemption Iv been thinking about the last decade. Sorry for the ramble just thought I would explain the name!

Since getting the car a couple months ago I have been stacking parts from multiple donor cars. The block, and head sit at the machine shop as we speak.

I know how you feel with the redemption thing. I've caught so much shit with the AMS Talon so far because I stop and replace so many things with new, OEM, or at least high quality aftermarket parts. Because it's my own little DSM redemption. I had a 1GA AWD Auto back in the day, and didn't know a single thing about mechanic stuff and let my lazy drug addict dad make all the decisions, so that poor car was so slapped together and abused. I sold it off and lost track of it, it probably got crushed by one of the new owners, so this is like my apology to that car. No cutting corners, no hackjobs, period.


Looking forward to the progress. What's the overall goal for it?

CrackedDSM said:

I know how you feel with the redemption thing. I've caught so much shit with the AMS Talon so far because I stop and replace so many things with new, OEM, or at least high quality aftermarket parts. Because it's my own little DSM redemption. I had a 1GA AWD Auto back in the day, and didn't know a single thing about mechanic stuff and let my lazy drug addict dad make all the decisions, so that poor car was so slapped together and abused. I sold it off and lost track of it, it probably got crushed by one of the new owners, so this is like my apology to that car. No cutting corners, no hackjobs, period.


Looking forward to the progress. What's the overall goal for it?

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Yup no cutting corners for sure! Goals are 400-450hp but just getting it on the road would be a win for me. Just want a fun weekend car to drive every once in awhile

Machinist called me a couple days ago and gave me the go ahead to order .020 over pistons. I went with 2g pistons for the higher compression ratio, and the 1g pistons seem to be discontinued. Patiently waiting for all machine work to be done. Ordered all OEM seals and gaskets to assemble short block.

Turbski91 said:

Machinist called me a couple days ago and gave me the go ahead to order .020 over pistons. I went with 2g pistons for the higher compression ratio, and the 1g pistons seem to be discontinued. Patiently waiting for all machine work to be done. Ordered all OEM seals and gaskets to assemble short block.

View attachment 749457

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You are aware the 2g pistons are not bolt on if you have a 6bolt motor as your name suggests.

pauleyman said:

You are aware the 2g pistons are not bolt on if you have a 6bolt motor as your name suggests.

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Yes my machinist is going to machine the rods to fit the pistons.

2G pistons on 1g rods is my favorite budget engine choice. Love it!


Where did you find the NPR pistons though? For a little bit they were unobtanium.

CrackedDSM said:

2G pistons on 1g rods is my favorite budget engine choice. Love it!


Where did you find the NPR pistons though? For a little bit they were unobtanium.

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There are a couple vendors selling them on eBay. I only see 2g pistons though.

Turbski91 said:

Yes my machinist is going to machine the rods to fit the pistons.

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Make sure to tell the machinist not to forget making the rod small end width narrower, too. Many people do only enlarging the small end diameter for the 22mm wrist pin and forget about the width.

DSMPT said:

Make sure to tell the machinist not to forget making the rod small end width narrower, too. Many people do only enlarging the small end diameter for the 22mm wrist pin and forget about the width.

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Yup i read that the other day. I read that .037”-.040 needs to come off each side of the rod

Nice job, man. Looking forward to following along.

Those would be Nippon pistons with NPR rings. Same as what I'm running in my 1g. I also bought them from Ebay.
Keep in mind those rings are sized to fit based on 2g end gap measurements. So if you are gapping the rings yourself, use the 2g service manual for measurements. 1g calls for smaller end gaps.
This diagram may help your machinist with the 1g rods to fit those 2g pistons:

dwb said:

Those would be Nippon pistons with NPR rings. Same as what I'm running in my 1g. I also bought them from Ebay.
Keep in mind those rings are sized to fit based on 2g end gap measurements. So if you are gapping the rings yourself, use the 2g service manual for measurements. 1g calls for smaller end gaps.
This diagram may help your machinist with the 1g rods to fit those 2g pistons:

View attachment 749541

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Good call i didn’t think end gap would be different, but it makes sense since compression ratio is different. Good call, and i appreciate the knowledge!!

Finally got the car in my garage. Pulled the interior to clean and paint the plastics, and redo the headliner. I also have a dash in far better condition to put in.

Still waiting on the machine shop. Figured I’d start working on the body. Started pulling the dash for the new one, and had one of the biggest wins yet… got two broken bolts out of the fender. Plan on taking the windows out of the doors to get tinted and clean the tracks. This car has been sitting for a long time somewhere, and there is dirt packed everywhere.

Let the engine build begin! Got all of the engine parts back from the machine shop!
Machine shop work that was done:
-bored cylinder .020 over
-honed cylinders
-decked block
-Pressed new bearings in to seal off BSE oil holes
-line honed crank journals and set bearing clearances
-Fit 2g pistons on 6 bolt rods
-pressed ARP hardware into rods
-set rod bearing clearances
-ported and polished head
-checked all valve seats to insure a good seal.
-decked head

Today was my Monday off so I took the time to assemble the short block.

I have subframe bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar links all on their way. Figured I’d get ahead of it, and pull the subframe now.

Today was head building day. I thought I ordered BC springs with titanium retainers, but apparently ordered steel retainers. Figured I’m not trying to push the car hard enough to need titanium and steel is better for a daily.

Got most of the front suspension done today. Installed energy suspension bushings in the front subframe, and control arms. Along with new wheel bearings, wheel seals, and ball joints. Also put AGX struts and lowering springs on. Got them from a friend that no longer has his 1g.

Nice build dude! Which oil pump did you install in that engine?

AdrianDSM said:

Nice build dude! Which oil pump did you install in that engine?

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Thanks bro! It’s a ACL pump from STM. Case and gears come with it. I did swap all of the seals out for OEM though. Good reviews, and a couple people on this forum said good things about it.

Sadly it's the only option now, no more OEM ones. I hope it works as it should.

After getting the car on jack stands and laying under it heavier rust on the brake lines and fuel lines was spotted. Was not planning on dropping the rear subframe right now, but awayyyy we go!


Ordered pre-bent stainless steel lines for the rear from classictube.com they sell a full kit, but i called and was able to purchase half the kit for half price. I also ordered a -6an fuel feed kit from STM and a -6an line for the return.

Will be using these hangers to hang the new brake lines and -6an feed and return lines

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Took the worst fuel hanger i had to hack it up, and put in new wire connections, and the -6an bulkhead.