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I wanna see your layout before tacking.

me? cut and mock up..... tack...... weld..... port...... boom!


Got the flanges cut, fitted and Welded on the insides of the runners. ......

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Due to the heat after welding the out sides of the manifold there was some shrinkage and warpage to the point where the bolt holes would not line up and just a resurface would not due. So I had to add material to the whole head flange sealing surface and relief cut it......

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After the throttle body Mount flange sealing surface was milled. ......

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The milled head flange.......

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Injector bungs milled. .......

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Injector bungs fitted with rail......

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Bolt holes all fitted now after some welding and some end milling......

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Inside the runners before porting and clean up. ....

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Injector bungs Welded in and mounted on head. .......

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runners ported......


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mike
 

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Does relief cutting help prevent warping? And do you mill the stuff at home?
I would hate to build manifolds and have to bring it a machine shop every time.
 
Does relief cutting help prevent warping? And do you mill the stuff at home?
I would hate to build manifolds and have to bring it a machine shop every time.

read everything i posted..... i had to relief cut it to get the head flange mount bolt holes to line up again. i had to add material to the head flange because after milling it was to thin. so when i welded another 1/4" of material on the sealing surface it distorted way to much to where it was junk. but at that point i had to much time into it to srap it so i got the ok from the owner and relief cut it and it flex back out to where the bolt holes were close enough to oblong them so they would work. all bueno now.


mike
 
ok. I was able to chip a little off. Here's better lighting too.
What should I change? Am I going to slow?
 

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Who cares what the speed and voltage is. Go by the sound. That is the best way to tune the machine for your joint.
 
Worst advice ever... If your voltage is too low you won be burning into your base material...
So everyone should care.

I had a plate break on me during bend because it wasnt fuzed in and that was using 20 volts....

600fps and 29 volts buned in great

Mig tends not to look as good as tig or stick though.

Wire speed is in IPM(inches per minute) and is ranged from 40-700 IPM on my machine. 300FPS(feet per second)..isn't that fast as f**K?

600 feet per second is what i passed my 1g and 2g mig welding cert with. They required it. Yeah it was fast as fuq and was really loud frequency noise. Burned in nicely...


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And they all passed.
 

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Who cares what the speed and voltage is. Go by the sound. That is the best way to tune the machine for your joint.

That is literally like saying who cares what afr or timing your car is set at, just tune it by the cloud of smoke out of the tail pipe. Wire feed speed, voltage, and travel speed are the three key variables to heat input and thus welding as it requires a certain amount of joules to melt a given material. Simple voltage adjustments can shape your weld bead and your penetration profile, so depending on what you are going for, voltage can help you get there. Also voltage is the main factor that changes your transfer modes (short circuit, globular, spray). WFS is directly rated to amperage and thus wire deposition and also penetration.

Urban, I believe your units are wrong. 600FPS is 7200 inches per minute or 120 inches per second of wire exiting the contact tip. Aside from any weld wire that you would use to hand weld not being able to carry enough current to weld at that rate, the amount of wire that you would deposit would probably result in a single pass weld around 6" pipe in less than 30 seconds. inches per minute, MM per second, and meters per minute are the standard units for measuring wire feed speed. BTW good job passing your tests, its a good feeling when they come out of the bend tester and there are no defects at the root or face of the weld. :thumb:
 
Your wire feed speed is certainly not more than half the speed of sound... As mentioned, IPM is common. Voltage is also necessary. Most welds have a book procedure that will get you started. Fine tune based on skill and comfort level.

I have heard the sound of bacon crackling is a good indicator of a balanced setting, but not an all inclusive rule.
 
Hense why i said he was correct and acknowledge my mistake.. I said "ipm"

Bacon sound is a good sign your on correct polarity with stick welding.

Ive noticed high speed mig sounds more like a high pitched drone, than bacon LOL.

It really depends on transfer mode. If you are in short circuit transfer, crackling bacon is pretty good. Globular transfer sounds awful and is generally awful. Spray transfer is probably what you are used to hearing now and that is a sort of high pitched scream. If you couple spray transfer with a pulse program, the sound is pretty fun.
 
Just got a new-ish Miller maxstar 200dx digital, it will mainly be used for side work projects. Got to start practicing for my hastelloy and copper nickel certifications.
 
i hopefully get my own gas for home use next month so i will post some pics up once ive got it setup, its only a 160 amp ac/dc unit but it cost alot so i had to make do with this for now. first build is my exhaust system
 
Do any of you have experience with a hobart 140. 500559 model number.([ame=http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-Handler/dp/B009X43F38]Amazon.com: Hobart 500559 Handler: Home Improvement[/ame]) I've been wanting to get a welder to do some work to my talon and I'm new to welding so I figured I'd ask some of you for advice. The 115v welder would be plenty for any projects with the car, correct?
 
It's probably the best 115v machine out there. Should also look at the 210mvp. It's 115/220v. Great machine. I would buy one if I needed a dual voltage.

Well just unboxed another plasma cutter. Thus far it doesn't look too bad. Still have to wait until tomorrow to test it out.
Oh and my new multi process unit shows up tomorrow as well.
 
CHECK IT OUT!
Dd my seat bracket for the kirkey. Kinda wish i choose aluminum.
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Not familier with what a dimple die is. Yeah the bracket alone is about 7 lbs how big and how many holes would you drill, i dont wanna sacrifice structural integrity.

It was all 1/8 mild steel flat bar and 1 small 3/4 angle iron and a hollow rectangle . stock 1"x2" thinner wall maybe 1/16? Maybe a little thicker

I contaminated lots of tungsten today and ran the tank down to 200psi LOL took me 4 hrs of cutting tacking test fitting, breaking tacks, then the actual welds
 
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