Would cold weather harshly affect my car that came from a hot area?

[Mirad]

1995 Eagle Talon ESI Non-Turbo all stock with no mods
420A with Manual Transmission
147,000 miles

As the title states, "Would cold weather harshly affect my car that came from a hot area?"

I've had my car since 2006 and it's been in hot weather as high as 84* and low as 71*. I shipped my vehicle back in Nov 2013. My car ran fine when I picked it up from the port on Jan 14 this year. It was 55* and temperatures got as low as 36*. As I was driving away from a warm area into a colder one, that's when my car started to bog/had a hard time accelerating. Could my oil been affected? Where I am at now, temperatures are as high as 38* and as low as 25*.

Would a simple oil change for cold weather fix the bogging? If so, what kind of oil would I get? Synthetic 5w30? I originally used 10w30. Would I have to change out any other fluids due to the cold weather? Transmission fluid, coolant? If so, what should I get?

My speedometer also stopped working properly also. When it is really cold it doesn't work at all.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Soccerguy136]

Cold weather does affect cars, as it is harsher and less forgiving that warmer climates, but not exactly in the way you are describing.

10w30 oil shouldn't have a problem in 25 degrees. However, you may want to switch to 5w30 as they have the same ending weight but the 5w will start easier in colder weather. Also, synthetic is always better than mineral, but it may reveal some leaks so I would just go with mineral or a synthetic blend.

The car can bog in cold weather if it is not up to operating temperatures when accelerating rapidly. Though this can happen in warm weather as well, it is much more likely when it's colder. It could also just be time for a tune up (new plugs, wires, o2 sensor, thermostat, etc) that just didn't show as much when it was warm. Do you know what temp rating the thermostat in the car has?

If your tach still works and the speedometer doesn't it is likely the speed sensor. Before you replace the sensor, try cleaning out the sensor plug and harness with electrical contact cleaner and apply some dielectric grease. The plug for this sensor is known for getting debris and water into it causing problems.

 

[DogWhistle]

If "I picked my car up from the port...", you mean that you shipped it back to California, then altitude is not a factor. If you now have the car somewhere with high altitude, then yes, the tune will be affected.

Those of us that drive our DSMs in the winter in very cold climates can tell you that the colder air makes for more challenging starting than affecting the driving characteristics.

One of the first things to check/replace is your thermostat. Colder air is denser, so change the intake filter as well. You may have a coolant temperature sensor going bad too.

Those are just a few of the first things to check. You could always see if the car is throwing any codes.

 

[Mirad]

Cold weather does affect cars, as it is harsher and less forgiving that warmer climates, but not exactly in the way you are describing.

I see. It's my first time being in super cold weather that can drop below 32*.

10w30 oil shouldn't have a problem in 25 degrees. However, you may want to switch to 5w30 as they have the same ending weight but the 5w will start easier in colder weather. Also, synthetic is always better than mineral, but it may reveal some leaks so I would just go with mineral or a synthetic blend.

I'll try 5W30. Is Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic good? What would be my best bet if the don't have it. I've heard people say oil is oil as long as the rating is the same.

The car can bog in cold weather if it is not up to operating temperatures when accelerating rapidly. Though this can happen in warm weather as well, it is much more likely when it's colder. It could also just be time for a tune up (new plugs, wires, o2 sensor, thermostat, etc) that just didn't show as much when it was warm. Do you know what temp rating the thermostat in the car has?

That reminds me, as I was driving off from a warm area to a cold one, the temperature gauge was moving from warm to cold. Till finally it sat barely above cold. I'll be sure to do a coolant/radiator flush and add 50/50 coolant to it.

I installed new spark plugs to brand new NGK Spark Plugs 2756 - BKR6E-11 gapped right(I'll check if they're at .028), new spark plug wires (OMS 9458 Ignition Wire Set), Ignition Coil MPI 2-50013 and a STP air filter. I'll check out the O2 sensor. I hand no idea what the temp rating is for the thermostat. What would it be? My car is fully stock with no mods, I forgot to mention that. I should get my timing and serpentine belts checked and adjusted as well?

If your tach still works and the speedometer doesn't it is likely the speed sensor. Before you replace the sensor, try cleaning out the sensor plug and harness with electrical contact cleaner and apply some dielectric grease. The plug for this sensor is known for getting debris and water into it causing problems.
I will certainly try that.

If "I picked my car up from the port...", you mean that you shipped it back to California, then altitude is not a factor. If you now have the car somewhere with high altitude, then yes, the tune will be affected.

Those of us that drive our DSMs in the winter in very cold climates can tell you that the colder air makes for more challenging starting than affecting the driving characteristics.

One of the first things to check/replace is your thermostat. Colder air is denser, so change the intake filter as well. You may have a coolant temperature sensor going bad too.

how would I know and how can I test my thermostat and coolant temperature sensor to show if they're still good or going bad?

Those are just a few of the first things to check. You could always see if the car is throwing any codes.

When my car had that bogging issue, I changed my battery, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition coil. The CEL didn't go away. I did the key dance and got the CEL code 43. I brought it to Autozone and they pulled the code PO300. When I took my car to Oreillys and started my car. It started and died instantly. It took 2 tries and then it started. The CEL was gone and the employee got no codes.

Thank you both for your advice and the information. It gave me new things to look into.

I'll keep this thread updated. I'll do my injectors, fuel filter, fuel regulator, O2 sensor if the problem persists. I haven't change any of these since owning the vehicle.

 

[Soccerguy136]

You don't need to change fuel injectors unless you are having a problem with them. You can, however, run some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank which should help some.

Changing the fuel filter is never a bad idea. At least every 30,000.

Replacing the O2 sensor at least every 60,000 is a good time.

Not sure what a fuel regulator is. I assume you mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator, which does not need to be changed either unless you have a problem with it either. The fuel injector cleaner will be fine here too.

The fact that your temp gauge got to barely above cold is not good. I would suspect the thermostat. Or, as the above stated, a temp sensor. First, check to make sure the temp sensor isn't unplugged. It is on the thermostat housing by the upper rad hose.

The stock thermostat is rated at 190 degrees, but a 192 or 195 will also work as no aftermarket ones are ever 190 . You can find them anywhere, but most people prefer Stant (can find at Advance Auto or Napa) or OEM (Mitsubishi dealer).

In order to test a thermostat you have to pull it out and boil it in hot water to see at what temp it begins to open. It should begin to open at it's designated rating. So, stock, it should start to open at 190 degrees. If you pull it out though, you might as well replace it since they are usually only $10-20. Flushing the radiator and adding 50/50 coolant should help as well.

Mobile 1 High Mileage is a Full Synthetic oil. All Mobile 1 oils, are Full Synthetic. They are fantastic and top rated oils, but as I said before there is always a chance on an older car that a Full Synthetic will reveal leaks so I usually recommend against this. I would just stay with a mineral oil for the time being. Mobile 5000 oil is a mineral oil made by the same people that make Mobile 1. Just get 5w-30.

 

[DogWhistle]

Sure glad you are planning to replace several parts to eliminate something simple. I believe the thermostat rating is 195*. Our 4G63 has a 195 thermostat and typically runs at 215. That's within recommended range, so your thermostat number is just the temperature at which it will open up. If yours is bad, it may be opening too soon, or stuck open.

Since a thermostat and gasket are probably around $15, I don't think I would take the time to test your current one.

P0300 Random Multiple Misfire
More than 1 cylinder is misfiring and the total number of misfires exceeds 20 misfires per 1000 engine revolutions.

PO043 EGR Fault

You may have a sticking, or plugged EGR valve or maybe a bad solenoid control.

 

[2gnt99]

I would stick with conventional 5w-30. How long did you run the car on 10w-30?
As stated above, synthetic does open up more opportunities for oil leaks.

It wouldn't hurt to flush the radiator and re-fill with a 50/50 coolant mix. A 50/50 mix should be good down to around -37F.

Does the engine regain power after warming up, or persists with a lack of power? My 420a does not like the cold (it's got down to 5 degrees F here) but does fine after warming up.

About spark plugs: I see you stated above that you gapped your plugs to .028, but 420a plugs (NGK BKR6e) should be gapped between .048 and .052. (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/351739-proper-420a-spark-plug-gap.html) That may play a part in your random misfires.

You can pick up a power-steering/air-conditioner belt and a alternator belt from O'Reilly's for about $15 per belt. It's easiest to change the alternator belt while you already have the ps/ac belt off.

 

[Mirad]

You don't need to change fuel injectors unless you are having a problem with them. You can, however, run some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank which should help some.

I'll clean the Fuel Injectors last if everything else fails. I tried Sea Foam as a lot of people suggested. It helped stabilize and keep the idle steady at 950 rpm. The idle was steady at 850 rpm before Sea Foam.

Changing the fuel filter is never a bad idea. At least every 30,000.

Replacing the O2 sensor at least every 60,000 is a good time.

Thanks for the mileage info. I figured the original owner never changed them out and they were due for replacement. My Factory Service Manual and Owner's Manual will be here soon.

Not sure what a fuel regulator is. I assume you mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator, which does not need to be changed either unless you have a problem with it either. The fuel injector cleaner will be fine here too.

I did mean Fuel Pressure Regulator. Thanks for the correction. I'm glad Sea Foam helped cleaned it and hopefully the Fuel Injectors a bit.

The fact that your temp gauge got to barely above cold is not good. I would suspect the thermostat. Or, as the above stated, a temp sensor. First, check to make sure the temp sensor isn't unplugged. It is on the thermostat housing by the upper rad hose.

I added a half a cup of Peak 50/50 pre-diluted Antifreeze & Coolant yesterday and the temperature on my temperature gauge rose a bit. The Engine Coolant Temperature is plugged in but has a little green patina around the nut. I'll snap a picture.

The stock thermostat is rated at 190 degrees, but a 192 or 195 will also work as no aftermarket ones are ever 190 . You can find them anywhere, but most people prefer Stant (can find at Advance Auto or Napa) or OEM (Mitsubishi dealer).

I did pick up a new Duralast Thermostat and a Duralast/Fel-Pro Water Outlet Gasket from Autozone.

Are they any good? I noticed the gasket has sealant on one side. Which way should I put the gasket on? Autozone said it doesn't matter which way the gasket goes.

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In order to test a thermostat you have to pull it out and boil it in hot water to see at what temp it begins to open. It should begin to open at it's designated rating. So, stock, it should start to open at 190 degrees. If you pull it out though, you might as well replace it since they are usually only $10-20. Flushing the radiator and adding 50/50 coolant should help as well.

I haven't had the chance to flush my cooling system yet since it's been very cold, Thursday looks like it'll be warmer.

Should I flush my coolant system like this or drain, add distilled water and run it for 30 minutes, drain then add antifreeze and coolant?:

Flushing your car's cooling system

Sorry for the clicky link, I don't know how to embed videos through my phone.

Mobile 1 High Mileage is a Full Synthetic oil. All Mobile 1 oils, are Full Synthetic. They are fantastic and top rated oils, but as I said before there is always a chance on an older car that a Full Synthetic will reveal leaks so I usually recommend against this. I would just stay with a mineral oil for the time being. Mobile 5000 oil is a mineral oil made by the same people that make Mobile 1. Just get 5w-30.

Sounds good. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the information and help!

Sure glad you are planning to replace several parts to eliminate something simple. I believe the thermostat rating is 195*. Our 4G63 has a 195 thermostat and typically runs at 215. That's within recommended range, so your thermostat number is just the temperature at which it will open up. If yours is bad, it may be opening too soon, or stuck open.

Since a thermostat and gasket are probably around $15, I don't think I would take the time to test your current one.

I bought me a Duralast Thermostat and a Duralast/Fel-Pro Water Outlet Gasket. Are they good? Judging from the patina on the housing, it looks like it hasn't been serviced in a long time.

P0300 Random Multiple Misfire
More than 1 cylinder is misfiring and the total number of misfires exceeds 20 misfires per 1000 engine revolutions.

PO043 EGR Fault

You may have a sticking, or plugged EGR valve or maybe a bad solenoid control.
I didn't get a EGR code, I only got a P0300 from the OBDII. I got 43 from my CEL.

However, when I did the cigar vacuum leak test, smoke came out from the vents on the sides of the EGR Solenoid. Would that mean it is stuck on open? Would this cause bogging/hard to accelerate/misfires?

Finding Vacuum Leaks with a Cigar

I would stick with conventional 5w-30. How long did you run the car on 10w-30?
As stated above, synthetic does open up more opportunities for oil leaks.

Its been running on Regular Mobil 10w30 since 2006 with regular oil changes every 3000 miles if it makes it since it burns oil. Once in a while, I would change it to Castrol GTX High Mileage Oil 10w30.

It wouldn't hurt to flush the radiator and re-fill with a 50/50 coolant mix. A 50/50 mix should be good down to around -37F.

Does the engine regain power after warming up, or persists with a lack of power? My 420a does not like the cold (it's got down to 5 degrees F here) but does fine after warming up.

I left my car running for 7 minutes to warm up. The temperature rose 1/8 inches on the Temperature Gauge and the idle holds steady at 950 rpm. When I step on the gas it bogs/sputters/has a hard time accelerating/misfires/rich or lean exhaust smell (it smells like gasoline) I gassed it with 87, Sea Foamed it, then switched to 93. It ran a bit smoother.

About spark plugs: I see you stated above that you gapped your plugs to .028, but 420a plugs (NGK BKR6e) should be gapped between .048 and .052. (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/351739-proper-420a-spark-plug-gap.html) That may play a part in your random misfires.

I gapped them to .048 when I read that .028 was for turbo engines which they failed to mention. Still misfiring.

You can pick up a power-steering/air-conditioner belt and a alternator belt from O'Reilly's for about $15 per belt. It's easiest to change the alternator belt while you already have the ps/ac belt off.

My belts are quite new. I'll get a belt gauge to make sure they have the right tension. I'll get new belts if anything.

Thanks for the valuable feedback and information everyone. I'll post my results as soon as I can! Please keep the input coming. Thank you very much!