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WOT when started..

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BOOSTJUNKIEGSX

15+ Year Contributor
113
1
Jan 12, 2006
HILLSBOROUGH, New Jersey
Here is the deal...

I have a 95 gsx that i fully built from the ground up .. The car was sent to a shop to have the timing redone because the timing on my new motor was off when i bought it creating the car to not start.. Fixing the timing, they went to start the car and the car redlined (Wide open throttle). The gas pedal was not touched..nor is the throttle body open

They told me that the ECU is bad and i have to replace it... This doesnt seem right because the car ran when i bought it and I had the ecu sent to dsmlink to be socketed..(dont they check the ecu?).

*I do not have a Throttle Position Sensor hooked up* even thou the car would run, just wouldnt idle..and having no TPS wouldnt create WOT??
or would it....

- Would a bad ECU actually cause WOT?
- Would a boostleak/vacuum leak cause WOT?
- Would no TPS cause WOT?
- Would my gm maf and translator be an issue if hooked up wrong?
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
- I have a brand new 1g throttle body bored out (new gaskets ect)
- Just had dsmlink installed and this is the first start up
- Have brand new non-cruise throttle cable
- SMIM brand new (new gasket)
 
That doesn't make sense. The engine can't jump to redline unless you have an open throttle or a huge gaping unrestricted hole in the intake manifold. Is this what they were telling you or was this what you saw yourself?
 
I Agree with you.. Relate to the laws of physics.. Im no scientist but it`s common sense. . Yes, this is what they told me when they got the car started. The car left my hands not running due to timing issues which was fixed and they said when they got it started it went straight to redline..

They said its the ECU... Is that possible? Would the ECU weather its bad or not create WOT.

I have put a brand new SMIM on the car with a new gasket , the throttle body is brand new rebuilt ect and i have new gaskets there too, but like i said i do not have a TPS on the car, the harness is cut but wires are taped up individually..Just trying to break it down and see what to try before i get the new ECU and give it to them..

I see you are in Jersey, do you possibly have a 95 eprom..Thanks
 
Quasimondo said:
That doesn't make sense. The engine can't jump to redline unless you have an open throttle or a huge gaping unrestricted hole in the intake manifold. Is this what they were telling you or was this what you saw yourself?

+1

Go check the car yourself, don't rely on what your mechanic says. As far as I know an engine cannot reach redline with the throttle plate closed and the intake sealed, no matter what the ECU does. There has to be a fairly large opening somewhere or the engine would just idle a little higher than normal.
 
I agree with all the advice given. The car isn`t here for me to break down the problem which makes this hard. The shop specializes in DSM`s and im confused why they would say its the ECU?

Just want to make this clear...The ECU isnt the problem? Thats pretty much what i need to know before i go get another one.. Im not too familiar with the way a ecu works and if it could affect my problem.
 
My 89 Camry used to do this. It turns out, the idle control screw was messing it up. On the Camry, the idle control screw was just a simple screw that would hold the throttle plate open a tiny bit. So the more it was screwed in, the wider open the throttle plate would be. What was happening was while I was driving, the vibrations from the road and motor would slowly tighten the screw. So when the clutch would go in or when I would start the car, the motor would rev itself.

Just check out everything involved with the throttle. Look at restrictions on the plate, shaft, cable, etc.
 
I know exactly what screw you mean.. The Biss screw..I know that the biss screw was 2 turns out from being fully turned in when i installed it. When installing the throttle cable there was no tension/kinks and everything worked fine. Throttle body worked fine and like stated everything had new gaskets ( Will reassure the gaskets ).

*I have a 1g TB on a 2g, so there is a pluglike prong on top of the stop screw-might this aid in the problem??*

I do not want to doubt the shops work....Being a DSM shop i would hope that they had atleast made sure the throttle wasn`t stuck and adjusted the biss screw somewhat to break down the decision they made about it being the ECU...
 
I don't think the throttle cable is adjusted properly. I had a similar problem where my car jumped to 3K when it first started. It turned out that the bracket that holds the throttle cable to the intake manifold was improperly adjusted, and it would hold the throttle open even when it appeared to be closed. Have them disconnect the throttle cable and restart the car. If it idles normally, then they need to adjust the bracket.

I seriously doubt the problem is your ECU.
 
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