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2G Wiring relay for launching in 2nd gear

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My shiftbox is a Forced Four SmartShift 100.1
It can do this but it still has a delay in its transition back to 1st Sean. Are you using a similar unit on your car?
 
So just to follow up on this, I just purchased a Smart 25 TCM

My shift box wasn't shifting when I wanted it to. Was talking it over with Shawn from Forced Four and my option was to possibly wire in a 10k resistor and hopefully fix it, or just buy this unit to fix the issue and have extra options as well as launching in 2nd gear as well. Purchasing this sounded like the better solution to me.

So thought I'd at least come back for an update. Took a bit longer because I had a tach gauge issue, and other minor problems. I'll try and post more updates after I get this and have it all working.
 
Never used that one. Im on the 150... if it programs the same stuff youll love it
I believe it's a new one coming out in a few weeks. I don't really need many features honestly. Launch in 2nd gear. Shift when I want it to going down the track. I mean what else would I really need for a 1/8th or 1/4 mile track?
 
I believe it's a new one coming out in a few weeks. I don't really need many features honestly. Launch in 2nd gear. Shift when I want it to going down the track. I mean what else would I really need for a 1/8th or 1/4 mile track?
Absolutely nothing!

Wonder what the differences are? I'm going to have to look. It looks like about $150 price difference.
 
I paid like $242 shipped for this plus the handheld. I don't really know what the differences are or why I'd need inputs and outputs, etc. Have no idea what half of the features are. But so long as it gives me the two features I want, I'll be happy. Told him that's all I needed and that's what he recommended to me.
 
I paid like $242 shipped for this plus the handheld. I don't really know what the differences are or why I'd need inputs and outputs, etc. Have no idea what half of the features are. But so long as it gives me the two features I want, I'll be happy. Told him that's all I needed and that's what he recommended to me.
I just looked at it. Perfect for dedicated track car. The others have features youll never need. As a street car i like having shift maps and soft shifting. I also use a ratchet shifter sometimes for 1/4 mile. Acts like a sequential.

I think youll be more than happy and we are here if you need help. I even made my own plug n play harness out of a dead tcu.
 
My shifter here but I may have to fabricate a new plate for it so that I can't skip second gear if I hit it too hard when shifting and go from 1st to 3rd. And it's very easy to do if I have the adrenaline pumping. 😡

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My shifter here but I may have to fabricate a new plate for it so that I can't skip second gear if I hit it too hard when shifting and go from 1st to 3rd. And it's very easy to do if I have the adrenaline pumping. 😡

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Nice... i use the hurst shifter and works great!

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What do you mean when you say, "Shifted when it wants"?
And which one box had ?
My current shift box is shifting at 3k rpm's. Not the 6k I'm trying to test and have programed, before cranking it on up higher. I've ordered a 10k resistor to try and wire in for the time being to see if that at least fixes my issue until my new shift box comes in.

But I also want to be able to decide whether I want to stall at 1st gear, 2nd gear, or whatever.

The box I have now is a discontinued unit and it wasn't new to me.

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Just another update. Being that my shift box was shifting at 3k rpms with a programed shift of 6k, I had reached out to Shawn at forcedfour and he said that sometimes if there's a noisy rpm signal, it'll cause that issue. So to resolve that issue he recommended I wire in a 10k resistor. After spending a few bucks to order some resistors and wire it in, I took it for a test around the neighborhood (sure my neighbors loved me) and that's all that was needed to fix the issue.

I had ordered a new shift box before this but being that it's a new version that I don't believe is even out yet and the programming isn't even finished, I figured it might be awhile and wanted to at least use what I have currently.

I'm currently waiting on a Magnafuel fuel filter replacement that was supposed to be here Friday but FedEx screwed me so I'm still waiting and should hopefully be in tomorrow sometime. Once I get that I hope to be dialing in the car and testing out a LOT of new parts.

I'll try and make some YouTube videos of the current one and new one down the road to add to my channel but I'm really excited that my current one is finally working correctly and appreciate Shawn helping out with fixing my issue.
 
Have you set it up like this Marty?

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I wish I was that far RIGHT NOW. I had everything setup and then I toasted the trans. After I put a very nice DTR trans in, the car started acting up on me, so I haven't gotten any further than a test launch, which is when I noticed a lag. I have a friend who had a Summit with a 4G63/Auto in it and he was trying to do the same but the shift box was not going into 1st soon enough and would stay in 2nd for the launch.

I am glad to here the OP seems happy, should we call this thread "RESOLVED"?
 
Just another update. Being that my shift box was shifting at 3k rpms with a programed shift of 6k, I had reached out to Shawn at forcedfour and he said that sometimes if there's a noisy rpm signal, it'll cause that issue. So to resolve that issue he recommended I wire in a 10k resistor. After spending a few bucks to order some resistors and wire it in, I took it for a test around the neighborhood (sure my neighbors loved me) and that's all that was needed to fix the issue.

I had ordered a new shift box before this but being that it's a new version that I don't believe is even out yet and the programming isn't even finished, I figured it might be awhile and wanted to at least use what I have currently.

I'm currently waiting on a Magnafuel fuel filter replacement that was supposed to be here Friday but FedEx screwed me so I'm still waiting and should hopefully be in tomorrow sometime. Once I get that I hope to be dialing in the car and testing out a LOT of new parts.

I'll try and make some YouTube videos of the current one and new one down the road to add to my channel but I'm really excited that my current one is finally working correctly and appreciate Shawn helping out with fixing my issue.
Please let me know once you put the info on your YouTube channel. I'm trying to figure out the forced four smart 150 and there's not much info out there on it.
 
Please let me know once you put the info on your YouTube channel. I'm trying to figure out the forced four smart 150 and there's not much info out there on it.
I'm still waiting on my new unit to come in but my current one works now. What are you trying to figure out?
 
My major issues are that the car won't shift into first until I'm at a complete stop and car won't shift into overdrive from 3rd at wot. I have to let off for it to shift. Also trying to play with the shift points. Here are screen shots on how the performance shop set it up.

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I wouldn't be using overdrive at wot anyway. I don't believe it can handle the power. How fast are you trying to go where you need overdrive above the 3 gears we have?

Also, you have downshift protection at 2500 so that might be why you're having to come to almost a stop to shift back into 1st. But I personally would have it even higher and just manually shift it there while at the track. Or disable it for the street if you wanted.

To my understanding, I believe overdrive is more just for being at a lower rpm and better gas mileage while cruising at highway speeds. Not for wot driving. I don't even have overdrive hooked up on my car because I'm not gonna risk hitting it while gong wot.

But if it helps, I also have a B&M shifter that I use for getting around. When I'm on full kill mode for racing, that's when I swap over to the shift box with higher shift rpm protections. When I manually do it with the B&M, I shift it whenever I want.
 
I wouldn't be using overdrive at wot anyway. I don't believe it can handle the power. How fast are you trying to go where you need overdrive above the 3 gears we have?

Also, you have downshift protection at 2500 so that might be why you're having to come to almost a stop to shift back into 1st. But I personally would have it even higher and just manually shift it there while at the track. Or disable it for the street if you wanted.
My GSX redlines in 3rd at about 100mph and I'm hitting that before I finish the 1/4 mile. I'm at 13.1 on a conservative tune with it staying in 3rd. I'm sure it would be in the high 12's if i can figure out how to get overdrive to kick on at wot. I have a fully built motor and the transmission is built as well. I intend to use mainly for street use so if I unchecked the enable box it should downshift sooner? I really appreciate you educating me on this 🙏
 
What are your rpm shift points? I'm shifting around 9k rpm's and I'm around 50 something just in 1st gear. Stock gearing. 2nd I'm not sure what speed it is but I know I'm on up there. Moving rpm limit certainly raises the mph.

And if you disable it, I'm sure it would. Only one way to find out.
 
What are your rpm shift points? I'm shifting around 9k rpm's and I'm around 50 something just in 1st gear. Stock gearing. 2nd I'm not sure what speed it is but I know I'm on up there. Moving rpm limit certainly raises the mph.

And if you disable it, I'm sure it would. Only one way to find out.
My shift points are at 7200 right now but I'll start trying to raise it to 8k to see what happens. Before I go mess with it, I do have one last question. Do I change the shift points on both the ecmlink and forced four? I don't know how to change the shift points on the forced four if I have to do both.
 
You don't have shift points in ecmlink. Just your rev limit, launch limit, etc.

Not sure if you realize it or not but the stock rev limiter kicks in at 7500 if I remember correctly. Not sure what your setup is though. I have my limited set to 9250 and try and shift at 9k.

When I start playing with my shift box more and then the new one when it comes in, I'll set my shift points to 8k to see where it shifts and then raise it from there. I had set it to 6k just to make sure it was working.
 
You don't have shift points in ecmlink. Just your rev limit, launch limit, etc.

Not sure if you realize it or not but the stock rev limiter kicks in at 7500 if I remember correctly. Not sure what your setup is though. I have my limited set to 9250 and try and shift at 9k.

When I start playing with my shift box more and then the new one when it comes in, I'll set my shift points to 8k to see where it shifts and then raise it from there. I had set it to 6k just to make sure it was working.
10.5:1 Wiseco HD Pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Comp Cams
Oversized valves
Kiggly beehive valves and HLA
FP Green
E85 flex
FP Manifold
Megan Racing downpipe
HKS Full Exhaust
450 Walboro fuel pump
1300 injectors
Ecmlink
Forcedfour smart 150
Welded differential

Do you change the shift points on the map? If not can you lead me in the right direction. I think on the map I have the car shifting from 1-2 at 40 mph. I just increase it to 45-50 and so on for the other gears?
 
My major issues are that the car won't shift into first until I'm at a complete stop and car won't shift into overdrive from 3rd at wot. I have to let off for it to shift. Also trying to play with the shift points. Here are screen shots on how the performance shop set it up.

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Maps look a bit off to me... maybe try these and disable the block downshift when using as a daily tcu.

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Maps look a bit off to me... maybe try these and disable the block downshift when using as a daily tcu.

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Thank you. I'll give it a shot.
 
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