Wiring a Basslink and 4sc module with new deck

[Ludachris]

Will finally be picking up a new head unit for the 2g Talon and will install the Basslink/4sc module that I've had sitting in the garage for 6 months. Just have to wrap my head around the wiring, it's been almost 2 decades since I've played with car audio.

Here's the deck I'm looking at getting:
JVC Arsenal KD-A535 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

Here are the instructions for the Basslink and 4sc:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/108/108BASSLIN.PDF
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/108/108BASS4SC.PDF

I've already got the 4sc mounted in the Basslink. If I'm understanding this right, I'll need 3 sets of RCA cables - one for the subwoofer output on the head unit to the Basslink. Then two more sets for the front and rear outputs on the head unit going to the 4sc. Run a power wire to the battery, a ground to the body, and a remote wire to the deck like normal.

Then I'll need to run speaker wire to the speakers from the 4sc to the rears and to the doors. How do I wire the tweeters in the dash? I planned on getting some bassblockers as I've seen suggested a few times, but do I just run wire from the door speakers to the tweeters with a bassblocker in between?

 

[Mr PopUps]

You can get a reverse harness for the amp plug under the pass seat. I used to have the wires memorized long ago, but can look them up on the CD Manual if you want.

What you really want to do is use this and keep the factory amp for the factory speakers and use the 3rd set of RCA's for the sub. Sorry mine is not for sale.

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I found the current equivalent for the above... not a bad price since mine new was $70+

CAR RADIO/STEREO PREMIUM SOUND WIRE HARNESS INSTALL PLUG ~ METRA 70-7003 | eBay

Wait, is this for a 2G or 1G? I might have a spare Infinity amp, but no wiring. If its for a 1G, i can help you figure out how to wire the car using an Infinity amp if you want.

 

[Ludachris]

But if I'm going to power the speakers with the 4sc I'd still use the factory amp?

 

[Ludachris]

Amazon.com: Metra 70-7003 Radio Wiring Harness for Mitsubishi Amp Integr: Car Electronics

So do I really need that if I'm using the 4sc? How would it be wired/connected? This is a 2g.

 

[Slo2gen]

You *COULD* run it into the factory amp, but I suspect that you would burn up the inputs on the factory amp. The 4sc is designed to be connected after the amp and be used as an active crossover for your speakers. So without hacking up your stock harness, you can remove the passenger seat and IIRC(I'll double check at work today) a Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport wiring harness will plug into the oem amplifier plug and work, with a bit of repinning. (Metra Part # 70-7712 | Isuzu wire harness | Honda wire harness | Metra Online) That way you don't have to cut your harness up . After that its just running the wire from under the seat to the amp!

IIRC speaker wires are as follows
FL- Black/Blue
FL+ White/Blue
FR- Black/Red
FR+ White/Red
RL-Gray/Blue
RL+Yellow/Blue
RR- Gray/Red
RR+Yellow/Red

You will also have to run a dedicated speaker wire from your tweeters on the dash if you want them to work. I recommend that you just run them off of the deck and don't power them from the amp and use either a "bass blocker" or even better if your head unit has it the high pass filter on it. If you wanted to get a bit more power from your system you could wire the speakers in parallel, although you would loose the balance or fade opotion you would get 50 watts RMS instead of 35. So you could run the rear speakers on your RR channel and your front mids on the RL channel and run your tweeters on your dash in true stereo up front and use the high pass filter on the amp. SO, you have a lot of flexibility honestly on how you want to hook it up! Hope this isn't too confusing from the way I worded it!

 

[Ludachris]

I'd prefer not to use the factory amp. I'd rather use the 4sc to power all the speakers - trying to use the factory amp seems like it defeats the purpose of having the 4sc. I just need to know how to do it right. Run the power from the 4sc to the door speakers, then run wire from those speakers to the tweeters with a bassblocker?

 

[Slo2gen]

All of your speaker wires are at the amplifier under the seat, using that plug keeps you from cutting into your harness. You are essentially bypassing the factory amp but using the wires that go from the amp to the speakers.

 

[Ludachris]

All of your speaker wires are at the amplifier under the seat, using that plug keeps you from cutting into your harness. You are essentially bypassing the factory amp but using the wires that go from the amp to the speakers.

Ahhhh, gotcha. So I'm running my speaker wires from the 4sc (that are meant to go to the front speakers) and routing them to the factory amp location to use the pickup points for door/dash speakers. This way I don't have to run wiring all the way to the doors and dash. Then I add in bassblockers at the dash speakers?

 

[Slo2gen]

Yes, but you may have to run wire for the dash speakers. Do you know how to wire the speakers in parallel vs stereo? If it was me I would combine the rear speaker positives and negatives to the RR channel on the amp, then the use the front door speakers on the RL channel. Then run your new wire for the dash speakers and use the FL and FR for each one and use the high pass filter on the amp instead of a bass blocker. It would sound better using the active cross over (amp) vs a bass blocker(passive crossover).

When you wire them in parallel you are giving the door and rear speakers 50watts RMS and then the dash speakers 35 watts RMS instead of all of them 35 watts, only down side is that you lose the "true" stereo because the rear speakers are combined and the front speakers on combined.

 

[Ludachris]

Yes, but you may have to run wire for the dash speakers. Do you know how to wire the speakers in parallel vs stereo? If it was me I would combine the rear speaker positives and negatives to the RR channel on the amp, then the use the front door speakers on the RL channel. Then run your new wire for the dash speakers and use the FL and FR for each one and use the high pass filter on the amp instead of a bass blocker. It would sound better using the active cross over (amp) vs a bass blocker(passive crossover).

When you wire them in parallel you are giving the door and rear speakers 50watts RMS and then the dash speakers 35 watts RMS instead of all of them 35 watts, only down side is that you lose the "true" stereo because the rear speakers are combined and the front speakers on combined.

I don't mind running wires to the dash speakers if necessary... but isn't the whole point of running wires to the amp location so that you can take advantage of using the factory wires going to the dash? I must be missing something... wish I had a wiring visual for all of this. I just need to make sure I have everything I need before I tear it all apart.

 

[Ludachris]

Right when I think I have this figured out I reread something in this thread and I'm confused again. Can someone spell it out. How do I run the RCAs, speaker wires from the deck, to the Basslink and 4sc, to the factory amp, to the speakers... having not torn it apart yet I can't wrap my head around how this is going to work - the factory amp thing is throwing me for a loop. I need to know whether or not I need that factory amp plug I found on Amazon. I just don't want to get it all apart and realize I'm missing something and have to tear it all apart again later while I wait for a part to be shipped. I want the simplest solution that won't sound like crap. I'm using the factory dash tweeters, with no plans of upgrading them.

 

[Slo2gen]

Ok

RCA outputs from radio to bass station
Speaker wire from bass station to under passenger seat.

You might not have to run new wire for your dash speakers but in the non infinity system with dash speakers the dash speakers are tied in with the door speakers, so you have to actually cut and run new wire. From looking at the diagram below it looks like if you have the infinity amp all your wire should be there at the amp and there is no need to run an additional wire, just use a 9v battery to "tone" across the positive and negative side of the speaker to locate which speaker is where. When you touch the wires to the battery it will make a little pop sound. Hopefully I made that clear enough, if not we'll have another go at it

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70775&thumb=1&d=1283291074

 

[Ludachris]

Ok

RCA outputs from radio to bass station
Speaker wire from bass station to under passenger seat.

You might not have to run new wire for your dash speakers but in the non infinity system with dash speakers the dash speakers are tied in with the door speakers, so you have to actually cut and run new wire. From looking at the diagram below it looks like if you have the infinity amp all your wire should be there at the amp and there is no need to run an additional wire, just use a 9v battery to "tone" across the positive and negative side of the speaker to locate which speaker is where. When you touch the wires to the battery it will make a little pop sound. Hopefully I made that clear enough, if not we'll have another go at it

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70775&thumb=1&d=1283291074

That's pretty easy. My main question is this - I'm going to have 2 pairs of wires coming from the 4sc module to power the doors and dash. Do I just wire them together? The RF and LF wires coming from the amp tied to both the RF and LF of the door and the dash together? So one pair (pos and neg) powers two front speakers on each side? And make sure the Bass Blocker is installed at the tweeter?

 

[Slo2gen]

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Wiring it the above way puts the door and rear speakers in parallel, so your pushing 50 watts RMS to them using just the crossover on the radio, no low pass or high pass filter(unless you wanted to use a high pass, I don't recommend it). Then that leaves you running the tweeters on the dash at 35 watts per speaker, you also WANT TO USE the HIGH pass filter on these so you don't blow them by sending the signals they can't play. I would recommend setting the high pass filter almost as high as it will go on the 4sc.

You can also hook it up the way you said, but install the bass blocker on the wires going to the tweeter. Honestly you can use a bass blocker on either set up as extra assurance that the tweeter is not getting signals it can't play. Let me know if I can help more and I'll do what I can to help.