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1G wire tuck questions

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SHEARER_TSI

10+ Year Contributor
531
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Nov 23, 2008
Oil City, Pennsylvania
I was wondering how you guys eliminate the extra connectors and wires on the harness. I have aem ems and I wont be needing things like the factory maf connector etc. So I was wondering what the best way was to eliminate that stuff with out building a new harness altogether.
 
Tear apart that harness and eliminate all unused wires. Just take your time and keep lots of handy wiring diagrams handy so you don't come back to us later complaining your car has electrical issues :p
 
When I did mine (only did a slight wire tuck/fuse box relocation), with all the extra connectors I did not need, I just cut off the connectors, and crimped ends to the wires so they could not short out anywhere, and taped them in with the rest of the wires. But be careful, as when I did mine (not sure about 1g) but on my 2g, there was a blue connector up by the battery by the firewall, and it looks like a regular connector, but inside it really crimped 2 wires together. Those wires need to stay together, as it connects to the coil pack/ignition transistor.
 
Be careful i did a tuck once and ill do it again, next car but ill plan it, cautions when you cut some wires are tied in a loop. I had to get another harness from a used car.
 
There is quite a few of them. What connectors do you plan to remove? I've got a '90 harness sitting in a box that I can reference for you.
 
Would it be easier to maybe just get another harness and strip it of the unneeded wiring. At least then when you pull yours, your back up and running more quickly.
 
Don't cut and crimp ANYTHING, strip, solder, shrink tube and then loom up everything.

Even when i went stand alone i ended up cutting a wire that was 2 wires going to one plug up by the passenger side cowl and some where between my haltechs wiring being spliced into the OEM wiring and my tuck this was the key to one of the ignition channels being dead at the end of the second wire removal/tuck job i did one night. panick set in as i looked at the pile of wires on the floor asking myself how could any of them possible have anything to do with the ignition as i THOUGHT i knew exactly the path of every wire in the ECU's setup. plus with crimp connectors it won't be a full season before you have troubles with something due to corrosion or a bad connection.. take youre time, plan out the tuck/move of each connector and excecute that maneuver by it's self and until completion before moving onto the next harness/connector or you may find yourself lost in a mess of spaghetti

Being that you're on AEM EMS, if you would have gotten the stand alone universal model you could have eliminated all the OEM engine wiring and laiud out your harness from scratch. When i did my haltech i wanted stealth and went into the OEM harness, but to this day i have a spare haltech harness aside that i've gathered all the plugs and connectors for and one day when i have another car i'll gut the OEM ECU harness and every un-needed wire from under the engine bay and discreatly tidy up, hide and route everything good enough to almost make you think the car wouldn't even run :D I love clean wire tucks
 
Obviously this works best if you pull the harness. Once it is out and open, follow any connectors you want to remove and trace the wires all the way back to the ECU or wherever else they land. If it joins another wire, well then you are going to have to cut it. You will find that its pretty easy once you get going. Just take your time (and notes) as mentioned above. I have removed quite a few plugs from my harness. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html
 
Obviously this works best if you pull the harness. Once it is out and open, follow any connectors you want to remove and trace the wires all the way back to the ECU or wherever else they land. If it joins another wire, well then you are going to have to cut it. You will find that its pretty easy once you get going. Just take your time (and notes) as mentioned above. I have removed quite a few plugs from my harness. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html

That really is the best way to do the majority of the job, there's a lot of grounds that tie together (of course) but there's also a lot of +5 and +12 volt leads that tie into many different things. Just remove the stuff you've traced and every couple wires you clean up take a break and start the car to ease your mind

best of luck..
 
As I promised, here's a quick run through of the MAF connector:
Pin 1 - Straight to pin 14 of the largest ECU connector
Pin 2 - Straight to pin 10 of the largest ECU connector
Pin 3 - Power wire; the most obvious wiring intersection is with the red wire to the BCS. From there it runs back to the ECU and a bunch of other things I didn't bother tracking down. In other words, it isn't going to hurt anything if this is "cut", heat shrunk and taped out of the way.
Pin 4 - Runs to the TPS connector and to pin 23 of the largest ECU connector
Pin 5 - Empty
Pin 6 - Ties in with the coolant temperature sensor, EGR temperature sensor, TPS, and ECU pins 17 and 24 on the largest connector
Pin 7 - Straight to pin 16 of the largest ECU connector
Pin 8 - Straight to pin 8 of the largest ECU connector
 
Last edited:
The proper way to do it would be to remove the harness and depin everything you don't plan to keep.

Be careful about the (usually blue) connector that has been mentioned on the fire wall. I cut mine off and just soldered and heat-shrunk the 2 wires crimped inside it.

On my harness I removed basically all the wires that run behind the throttle along the back of the firewall. The only needed unit back there is the Injector Resistor wires. I relocated that inside the passenger cabin so I could shorten the wires as much as possible.

I also plan to relocate the coilpack and ignitor to the firewall after I fabricate a bracket.

You will find a ton of retardedly long wires, and stupid loops. At least 3/4s of the connectors in the engine bay have wire 2-3 feet longer than needed.

I weighed the new wire cover, electrical tape, and heatshrink I used. And the wire, heatshrink, connectors, and loom I took off. There was just over an 11lb difference. I am sure you could get more off there if you delete more stuff you don't need. But I wanted to keep some stuff. Plus I used more wire sleeve than was really needed.
 
No ac no switch, mines gone, ran wires under intake on last car, remove ac fuse box, reroute wires i moved my ecu harness to bay under the battery, when i get the tsi ill do a journal on it, but i may have some pics from the previous project.
 
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