viprez586
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,006
- 23
- Aug 10, 2006
-
New Berlin,
Wisconsin
So like the title says, with winter being right around the corner I've been driving the Talon a couple days on and off to make sure things are spot on and for the most part - reliable.
Right away I noticed that I'd grind into gears randomly but especially at higher RPMs. I looked underneath the dash to inspect the clutch adjustment and voila!
There is the 182k clutch master cylinder leaking on the floor.
I read a couple opinions about aftermarket clutch master cylinders and how they suck, but hell for the price of the OEM one I said F that! $35 later I had a new "Napa clutch parts" box sitting on my bench at work. Visually this thing looks great, I did however swap over the clevis pin attachment on the MC rod.
The gayest thing about doing this job is laying under the dash.
First bleed all the brake fluid out of your clutch at the slave cylinder.
Next, grab a 10mm flare wrench to crack the line loose on the MC. Now remove the two 12mm nuts holding the MC to the firewall.
This is best accomplished by either a short 12mm socket w/ a 3" extension or a long 12mm socket with 1" extension.
Now crawl under the dash, the cotter pin holding the clevis pin in place is hard as hell to see and get to. To bring it into visiblity depress the clutch pedal to the floor. I used a 90* pick to hook into the end of the cotter pin and blunt force to remove it. Note I did use a new one however. Using the same pick or some 90* instrument you can push the clevis pin out and remove the assembly.
Installation is reverse of remove.
yeah right.
But seriously it is. Leave the clutch pedal depressed as it's much easier to get the clevis pin and cotter pin back into position. I chose to flip it around to perhaps get easier access to the cotter pin - either way it's a bi***.
And holy shit my clutch feels 100x better! I'm not picking it up off the floor anymore, shifting is smoother, pedal feel much more precise. Maybe I'll have NLTS down in no time!
Next on my list of maintenance I noticed my rear brakes were hanging up, so chalked that up on the list and so far it looks like it'll run me about $300 with the addition to NEW EFFING PARKING BRAKE CABLES!!
The parking brake cables were the first to break on my car along the list of many and holy shit do I miss not having a parking brake. I've had my car pop out of gear twice in the entire 4 years of not having them and trust me you look like a moron chasing after your roll-away.
This will be extremely helpful in ice-racing for wicked understeer issues my car has and all out convenience.
As far as aftermarket goodies go: I'm tempted to buy a AEM coolant temperature gauge because my current one blows and is totally inaccurate.
A few people I know have been talking my car up and blah blah blah so I'm tempted to get some Delta sticks to really back-up what people are saying. At least to give some extra kick while I DD it and run pump gas.
(I beat a EVO 8 w/ 272s and some other stuff while running race gas and 28psi
)
A lot of people tell me to find a clean shell but i honestly don't have the time or $ to swap all my shit into a clean shell. Wisconsin tears hell on cars, and people look at my car like WTF when it's ugly as sin and (decently) fast for a street DD car.
That's the latest and greatest with my 1GB.
OH and my rebuild payed off - 155psi across the board, definitely some more kick then my past POS engines.
Right away I noticed that I'd grind into gears randomly but especially at higher RPMs. I looked underneath the dash to inspect the clutch adjustment and voila!
There is the 182k clutch master cylinder leaking on the floor.
I read a couple opinions about aftermarket clutch master cylinders and how they suck, but hell for the price of the OEM one I said F that! $35 later I had a new "Napa clutch parts" box sitting on my bench at work. Visually this thing looks great, I did however swap over the clevis pin attachment on the MC rod.
The gayest thing about doing this job is laying under the dash.
First bleed all the brake fluid out of your clutch at the slave cylinder.
Next, grab a 10mm flare wrench to crack the line loose on the MC. Now remove the two 12mm nuts holding the MC to the firewall.
This is best accomplished by either a short 12mm socket w/ a 3" extension or a long 12mm socket with 1" extension.
Now crawl under the dash, the cotter pin holding the clevis pin in place is hard as hell to see and get to. To bring it into visiblity depress the clutch pedal to the floor. I used a 90* pick to hook into the end of the cotter pin and blunt force to remove it. Note I did use a new one however. Using the same pick or some 90* instrument you can push the clevis pin out and remove the assembly.
Installation is reverse of remove.
yeah right.But seriously it is. Leave the clutch pedal depressed as it's much easier to get the clevis pin and cotter pin back into position. I chose to flip it around to perhaps get easier access to the cotter pin - either way it's a bi***.
And holy shit my clutch feels 100x better! I'm not picking it up off the floor anymore, shifting is smoother, pedal feel much more precise. Maybe I'll have NLTS down in no time!
Next on my list of maintenance I noticed my rear brakes were hanging up, so chalked that up on the list and so far it looks like it'll run me about $300 with the addition to NEW EFFING PARKING BRAKE CABLES!!
The parking brake cables were the first to break on my car along the list of many and holy shit do I miss not having a parking brake. I've had my car pop out of gear twice in the entire 4 years of not having them and trust me you look like a moron chasing after your roll-away.
This will be extremely helpful in ice-racing for wicked understeer issues my car has and all out convenience.
As far as aftermarket goodies go: I'm tempted to buy a AEM coolant temperature gauge because my current one blows and is totally inaccurate.
A few people I know have been talking my car up and blah blah blah so I'm tempted to get some Delta sticks to really back-up what people are saying. At least to give some extra kick while I DD it and run pump gas.
(I beat a EVO 8 w/ 272s and some other stuff while running race gas and 28psi
)A lot of people tell me to find a clean shell but i honestly don't have the time or $ to swap all my shit into a clean shell. Wisconsin tears hell on cars, and people look at my car like WTF when it's ugly as sin and (decently) fast for a street DD car.
That's the latest and greatest with my 1GB.
OH and my rebuild payed off - 155psi across the board, definitely some more kick then my past POS engines.
