Window Weld Motor Mount Question

[habitatguy187]

I've been reading about the cheap-o window weld motor mount fix people do and I have two questions.

1. Will it help with wheel hop if I just do the driver side and tranny motor mount?

2. To those of you who have done this, how long did you let the window weld dry before you put the mounts back in the car?

Thanks.

 

[crimsondragon]

1. No it will not. Wheel hop occurs when the engine literally jumps causing the car to alternate between gaining and losing traction. Since our engines are horizontally supported with the torsional forces going front to back, it would be better if you window welded the front and back engine mounts. It would be even better if you used Prothanes. The best would be to use solid aluminum bushings fitted into the mounts.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...-aluminum-motor-mounts.html?highlight=biglady
2. Typically they layer a bit down, put it in the oven till it dries, then layers it again and repeat till it's completely filled.

 

[big_d]

I have filled all mounts on two of my cars and have had zero problems. I fill them all in one shot, and leave them over night to dry. The next morning they are rock hard, and I install them.

 

[No_Skillz]

I have filled all mounts on two of my cars and have had zero problems. I fill them all in one shot, and leave them over night to dry. The next morning they are rock hard, and I install them.

Last time I saw this method done, it took about a week for the entire thing to cure. What substance/brand are you using?

 

[Gamble97]

The way I did it, was fill the side mounts and bought the inserts for the front/rear mounts.
3M Window weld takes a long time to fully cure. I've done it on many cars. I would let it dry for at least 48hrs. I usually let them dry for 60+ just to be sure.
Don't put that crap in the oven. Lay the mount flat, or tape off the one end, fill it up and wipe it off smooth, let it dry for about 24hours so it doesn't move, flip it over and do the same.

One of my cars I did the same thing to the front mount, but didn't use window weld, some stuff in a little $5 tube I found at home depot. It was for RV's and trailers. It was more of a mess to use but worked just as good.

 

[big_d]

I have always used genuine 3M Windo-weld. I usually give them about 24hrs of dry time leaving them set overnight in a heated garage, and I have never had a problem.

 

[habitatguy187]

Don't put that crap in the oven.

Why not? How about in front of a space heater?

 

[Gamble97]

I wouldn't put something like that in an oven that I cook food in. You never know man.
Kinda like the same reason you don't put powdercoat parts in the oven you cook in.

 

[300dollarGSX]

I put it on in somewhat thin layers and then baked it in front of heat lamps. I normally use the lamps to cure powdercoatings and ceramic type coatings so I reduced the heat (sort of like the ones used to cure automotive paint). They cooked at around 150 degrees or so, which should be well within what the Window Weld should be able to handle as the roof of my car gets that hot sometimes. I'm assuming Gamble97 said not to put it in the oven because it wasn't meant for high heat... and if it's an oven you use to cook food, there's no telling what type of emissions the Window Weld, or even your motor mounts, will vent. Even after baking them, I let them cure for an additional 24 hours.

 

[300dollarGSX]

Ha. Sorry, beat me to it.

 

[Locke]

I've formed entire bushings out of polyurethane. Unless you have a lot of downtime, do them in thin layers.

It does work well, but as mentioned, there are better options.

 

[turboglenn]

I've had both and i say get prothanes... the window weld holds up for a year or two , then the layers you put in start to seperate and come out leaving you with crappy looking failing stock mounts.. They do eliminate SOME wheel hop, but nothing like putting in a full set of prothanes and a LSD (did them at same time sorry )

I let mine dry for days, i was swapping the motor and everyday i would add a layer, did it the slowest and best i could and in 3 years they started coming off in layers and looked like crap..prothane look nice!

 

[Locke]

Glenn: If you let a layers fully cure before applying another, it may separate like you mentioned. If you apply the follow-up layers while the preceding is stick tacky, it will cure as a pretty solid single piece.

 

[turboglenn]

^^ Ahh, that's probably what my issue was... the remainging layers in the middle (the thickest ones) lasted a good amount of time, but i'm just much happier with the prothanes, even though they can be a bear to get the front mount and top tranny mount lined up

 

[empie1]

I did this many years ago. Worked ok for a while, but honestly, real inserts are like $60 and perform 10x better. I ended up just buying prothanes. They look nice and work better.

 

[brian9397gsx]

I did this to repair my mounts about 5yrs ago, its a temporary fix in my book as when I removed my mounts the window weld fell out of the mount. I put prothanes in and love them.

 

[newtodsm97gst]

Can I use a window weld polyutherane? because the 3M one's are too expensive. would it work just like the utherane 3M window weld?

 

[marcman804]

I used the PL400 in my mounts and it has worked flawlessly. It doesnt feel as sloppy as it did at first.

 

[newtodsm97gst]

So far its been a couple of days and the window weld still kinda soft, I guess I have to wait for a week to cure?

 

[knochgoon24]

You should have applied it in layers. It will take a while to cure if you just packed it full.

 

[newtodsm97gst]

i did... i applied it in 1 shot.... i guess it will be the waiting games. no fun for a while.

 

[bryanwheat]

I've found that if you want it strong you need to do it in one shot and let it cure for about a week. When you do it in layers it doesn't cure into one solid piece like if you did it all at once. IT does take longer to dry, but you end up with a stronger mount that will never come apart. Using an oven to dry is a bad idea, this type of urethane doesn't harden from heat, it cures from exposure to moisture, so keeping them outside on a warm muggy day is the best.

 

[knochgoon24]

I've found that if you want it strong you need to do it in one shot and let it cure for about a week. When you do it in layers it doesn't cure into one solid piece like if you did it all at once. IT does take longer to dry, but you end up with a stronger mount that will never come apart. Using an oven to dry is a bad idea, this type of urethane doesn't harden from heat, it cures from exposure to moisture, so keeping them outside on a warm muggy day is the best.

I'm beginning to notice that you and I do nothing the same way.

I had no problems with mine separating when I did it, but I didn't let if fully cure between layers. It was still a tad soft when I put the next layer in. Cure time was about 3 days.