will these mods make a difference >?

[xtremest26]

Ok, I have OBX headers/downpipe, Tsudo Catback exhaust everything 2.5 inch
AFX underdrive pulley, cold air intake(long ram), bored TB at 55mm w/half shaft, ported & matched intake manifold, EGR block off plates, 10.3mm spark plug wires(grounded).
So my question is, is the screamin demon ignition coil going to do any good with the mods I have or is it a waste? I hear its 40,000volts compared to the stock 36,000volt.
and the other question is fuel, would it do any good putting a fuel regulator & rail on it being that its non-turbo ? Let me know thanks, need some really good feedback !!!

 

[DarkStarMenace]

I would say your exhaust and intake upgrades have done the most in power for you. The underdrive pulleys are kind of pointless. The wires won't matter as long as they are conductive, which every wire is. Upgrading your ignition coil is pointless unless you do more internal upgrades or plan to spray, or decide to go forced induction, either supercharge or turbo. Don't bother with a new fuel rail or regulator unless you plan to up your displacement quite a bit or choose one of the earlier mentioned upgrades. Like I said, your 2 biggest improvements have been the intake and exhaust upgrades. You start upgrading the bigger pieces and these improvements will just be more apparent.

 

[xtremest26]

thanx for the input, so any suggestions on upgrades that are worth it without pulling the engine down. bolt on's suff like that ?

 

[Fotowntalon]

I've herd the UDPs are very helpful, but i have yet to test em out. If you wanna stay N/A i beleive the next step is a good set of cams. A highflow cat would be good for ya to, but dont do it if you need to worry about emissions.

I personally am all about the free horsepower. otherwise known as weight shaving to grab some more horses. A lightweight battery can shave a good 20lbs. CF hood is about 20-30lbs. removing ## spare tire is another big wieght loss.

As for the demon, i highly doubt you will see a difference, I would skip that upgrade until you need to replace your current ignition coil do to faultyness.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Ok, I have OBX headers/downpipe, Tsudo Catback exhaust everything 2.5 inch
AFX underdrive pulley, cold air intake(long ram), bored TB at 55mm w/half shaft, ported & matched intake manifold, EGR block off plates, 10.3mm spark plug wires(grounded).
So my question is, is the screamin demon ignition coil going to do any good with the mods I have or is it a waste? I hear its 40,000volts compared to the stock 36,000volt.
and the other question is fuel, would it do any good putting a fuel regulator & rail on it being that its non-turbo ? Let me know thanks, need some really good feedback !!!

The stock coil outputs more energy than the Screamon' Demon or MSD replacement coils. You shouldn't need to bother with modifying the ignition system given your current modifications. For a non-turbo, I would say that even "upgraded" plug wires are a waste.

The same goes for the fuel system. There's no reason you should upgrade any of these components unless you need more fuel. Consequently, the only scenarios in which you will need more fuel are the application of forced induction or nitrous oxide systems.

 

[bullettdsm]

Consequently, the only scenarios in which you will need more fuel are the application of forced induction or nitrous oxide systems.

Hmm...........

Alright Paul, just kidding, just kidding. Very select few NA applications.........

MB

 

[Locke]

The stock coil outputs more energy than the Screamon' Demon or MSD replacement coils.

I believe the factory coil is a 36kV coil, as well as the MSD. The Screamin' Demon is a 40kV coil.

Regardless, completely unnecessary.

 

[BklynsDsmer]

best thing you can do is go to str8 mods(piston,rods Etc.) and not worry about ignition mods. Even a small stock t25 on your stock motor would do it, add a neon tranny and your good to go.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I believe the factory coil is a 36kV coil, as well as the MSD. The Screamin' Demon is a 40kV coil.

Regardless, completely unnecessary.

Those figures are in volts; the joule is the unit for energy. I remember seeing somewhere that the stock coil outputs more joules than the others, but I don't remember the exact numbers.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

best thing you can do is go to str8 mods(piston,rods Etc.) and not worry about ignition mods. Even a small stock t25 on your stock motor would do it, add a neon tranny and your good to go.

Oh, is that all? Why don't we just add a tube chassis and AEM EMS while we're at it?

 

[lacroixdp]

If I were you, I'd toss some money into your chassis, like some new shocks and some new rims/tires

 

[Locke]

Those figures are in volts; the joule is the unit for energy. I remember seeing that the stock coil output more joules than the others, but I don't remember the exact numbers.

I can't say that I've ever known the output in joules for any of them, myself.

 

[DarkStarMenace]

Hmm...........

Alright Paul, just kidding, just kidding. Very select few NA applications.........

MB

. . I checked your profile and I would love to see your car run. At first, I was surprised by your ET in the 1/4, but then I saw the biggest changes in your motor. High compression and cams, major power adders. How many Hondas you smashing on?

lacroixdp,
Totally agree with you on this. Do some suspension upgrades (shocks/springs) and motor mounts, if you haven't already. This will help plant your tires, stop any wheel hop you might have on take off. Get some good tires.

 

[Jesse420]

"AFX underdrive pulley"- good for 2-3hp and helps rev up SLIGHTLY quicker,
"cold air intake(long ram)"- long tube ram air intake that's very good for low end tq.
"55mm T/B"- good but the best size for an N/A is 57-58mm,max flow comes in with 57.8mm
"ported intake manifold"- good for high end flow
"10.3mm spark plug"- great for daily driving more than anything
"EGR block off plates"- good for keeping your intake manifold cleaner/and bad cause it makes you mpg suffer slightly and raises internal temps,
"header,Catback exhaust 2.5 inch"- great size for your current state of tune

As far as fuel goes- don't yet get a "fpr" and the stock fuel rail is fine,in fact its huge in comparison to the neon's,or even srt-4's so its good for some tuning.

and Screaming Demon coils- I have never gotten to personally test yet, but has mixed controversy on it on weather it works better than stock or not.

from this state of tune you might want to grab a larger T/B(you could modify 60mm jeep 4.0L T/B if you want)
Camshafts are definitely a must for any real performance gains,and Cam gears too,after the cams I would add an ecu.

 

[Jesse420]

What kind of tranny are you using a 3.55, 3.94, or auto?

 

[bullettdsm]

"AFX underdrive pulley"- good for 2-3hp and helps rev up SLIGHTLY quicker,
"cold air intake(long ram)"- long tube ram air intake that's very good for low end tq.
"55mm T/B"- good but the best size for an N/A is 57-58mm,max flow comes in with 57.8mm
"ported intake manifold"- good for high end flow
"10.3mm spark plug"- great for daily driving more than anything
"EGR block off plates"- good for keeping your intake manifold cleaner/and bad cause it makes you mpg suffer slightly and raises internal temps,
"header,Catback exhaust 2.5 inch"- great size for your current state of tune

As far as fuel goes- don't yet get a "fpr" and the stock fuel rail is fine,in fact its huge in comparison to the neon's,or even srt-4's so its good for some tuning.

and Screaming Demon coils- I have never gotten to personally test yet, but has mixed controversy on it on weather it works better than stock or not.

from this state of tune you might want to grab a larger T/B(you could modify 60mm jeep 4.0L T/B if you want)
Camshafts are definitely a must for any real performance gains,and Cam gears too,after the cams I would add larger injectors and/or ecu.

Good info here. Nice post. Just want to add a couple of things. You would never really need bigger injectors. I didn't change injectors until I was going over 175whp (up to 85% duty cycle at that point with stockers. Too high for my likes, so I went with the 450's).

Stock fpr will take you over 200whp.

Stock coil will take you over 200whp (though I currently have an MSD coil on there. It is for "bling" continuity of color, ).

You will fight the stock ECU all day with ANY mods that you make. The thing that will free up ome power would be either changing the ECU (Howell AFX/ECU if you have a 97 5 sp only. Otherwise you would have to do some pin swapping to attempt to use it on a different year) or MSnS (read up on that. Its pretty extensive in the learning curve. Not for the "new" modder).

And here's a little vid for DarkStarMenace;

YouTube - 6/13/2008 current Mitsu 420a NA record 13.302

MB

 

[Fotowntalon]

You will fight the stock ECU all day with ANY mods that you make. The thing that will free up ome power would be either changing the ECU (Howell AFX/ECU if you have a 97 5 sp only. Otherwise you would have to do some pin swapping to attempt to use it on a different year) or MSnS (read up on that. Its pretty extensive in the learning curve. Not for the "new" modder).
MB

How much of a difference will the ECU make or power will it free up. Or maybe I should ask, is it worth the price?

 

[bullettdsm]

How much of a difference will the ECU make or power will it free up. Or maybe I should ask, is it worth the price?

Hands down one of the better mods (even for the cost). I actually got better gas mileage out of it because it leans out the tune in certain places .

As far as tune; I compared the tune to my MSnS tune on basically the same set-up (MSnS professionally tuned by a top tuner). The curves and power matched up very closely (I believe the comparison is actually posted up here - or 2gnt. I can't remember where).

Now getting one would be more of the challenge. Howell has a waiting list of like 6 months (or something like that). Your best bet would be searching around the FS area's or the WTB areas (I sold mine last year).

MB

 

[Black420RS]

hi,

i have read a lot about this, the 97 can hold an ecu upgrade, mine one its a 98, would it be possible that i can do that to my car also? how can i know, it says in the door that he start riding in 01/14/98 so it is manufactured in 1997??? is there a notable difference to identify the car compatibility besides the year?

 

[DarkStarMenace]

Your car looks fun. Great vid. I definitely give you props on a solid build. So what's next for you?

 

[bullettdsm]

Your car looks fun. Great vid. I definitely give you props on a solid build. So what's next for you?

Lol, thanks for the kind words. I got a little something in a different car that should hit this year.

As for the NA, she got a little "parts movement" over the winter and should be out and about when I find some time.

MB

 

[tegster1]

(Howell AFX/ECU if you have a 97 5 sp only. Otherwise you would have to do some pin swapping to attempt to use it on a different year)

According to Howell, they have the ecu for 98 and 99 now. Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon - Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon 2nd Gen Non-Turbo 95-99 - Talon/Eclipse Computers

 

[VelocitàPaola]

According to Howell, they have the ecu for 98 and 99 now. Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon - Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon 2nd Gen Non-Turbo 95-99 - Talon/Eclipse Computers

I wonder when that happened... it took them long enough, though. The differences between the 97-99 ECU's are almost non-existent.

 

[Locke]

It must have taken them that long to re-pin their '97 unit.

I don't suppose the wait for these has decreased, though.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

It must have taken them that long to re-pin their '97 unit.

I don't suppose the wait for these has decreased, though.

They wouldn't need to re-pin it... all they do is re-flash stock PCM's; no hardware modification necessary.