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1G Whole mess of trouble. Fuel pump, ECU, won't crank.

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MyEclipse5

20+ Year Contributor
2,737
1
Oct 2, 2002
Normal, Illinois
I was driving my car to my girlfriends house about 6 months ago, and snapped a clutch fork. So after getting it there, by pushing it, it has sat all that time.

While it sat we replaced the clutch fork, header, exhaust, 16G and fuel pump. I JUST got the fuel pump install done, and didn't want to tune with crappy gas so I was going to empty my tank and fill it up with fresh 93 or E85. To empty the tank I was going to activate the fuel pump to get it running and just empty it out through the hose. Problem is, it wouldn't start.

I turned the key to the on position, no whine.
I tried to hook up a battery charger 12v to the fuel pump check thing, no whine.
Tried the fuel pump relay by jumping the two wires, no whine.
Went back to the trunk to the plug and the black and white striped wire, put power to that to try to get it working, no whine.

I hooked up DSMLink, which has always worked, and it won't connect to ECU

I attempted to start the car, with battery charger hooked up, doesn't try to crank at all. My starter worked fine before.

So today I though, "Maybe the battery needs jumped to have a full boost of power" Worth a shot right? Me being the dumb person I am, saw my subs battery cable next to one of the terminals and just assumed that was the positive. Hooked it all up and POP. Nope, that was the negative... I crossed the wires. So now I have MORE problems.

Car doesn't ding when I open door
Radio doesn't turn on
80AMP fuse for alt. blew
More that I don't know about.


How do I check my ECU, fuel pump, and why isn't it starting?

I sink $3000 into this car to get it where I want it, and something else goes wrong...figures.
:banghead:

Where do I even start?
 
Start with small simple things first. There are many times that we cross wires by mistake. A few fuses blow at worse. I've never messed anything up by accidentally bridging the posts.

Trace down your grounds. make sure everything is grounded up right. Also, make sure you didn't put the ground that runs from the alternator to the Ground side of the battery. Check all fuses, interior and engine bay. Check all relays and replace the relevant ones such as your Fuel Pump relay. Take out your ECU and check it out. Sniff it and see if it smells like dead fish or fried silicon. Take out the few screws and inspect it for bloated or busted caps. Check for trace burns or bridging across circuits. Pull the fuel pump and check it out.

Check your ignition relay.
 
Also my CEL light doesn't come on...at all.

I am going to check the MFI/Fuel Relay for power. Also my ECU since the CEL light doesn't come on.

I also figured out one of my problems. I have been driving my automatic Jeep for the past 6 months.

Just remembered, in order to get the car to crank over...I need to press the clutch in...

Doh!
 
I assume you have an aftermarket radio since you mentioned subs. Most all aftermarket decks have a fuse one the back of them, sometimes under the connector that plugs into the back. That fuse almost always blows when polarity is reversed.

If you havent done so yet check every fuse in the car.

If you find your mpi relay is fine, your ecu may have some problems. I remember a thread on the dsmlink forums where someone hooked up the cables wrong and Dave mentioned to open the ecu and check for damage similar to this: voltage01 [ECMTuning - wiki] As suggested before, smell for "burt electrical" inside the ecu and look for obvious blown components and burt electrical tracks.

Good luck
 
My cat won't detect that there is an ecu present. My ecu was bad, got it fixed, hooked it up and it worke fine. I was throwing a code for my crankshaft sensor circuit, looked around for that guy, came back to my laptop and dsmlink was disconnected, couldn't reconnect, and my cel light doesn't come on. Swapped out ecu's and cel still won't come on. What did I do now?
 
does everything cycle? interior lights work? FUEL PUMP cycle?

ive been doing some research... because im in the middle of a build and i currently have that problem. i THINK that my specific problem has to do with the mpi/fuel pump relay... i THINK i read someplace that that relay has something to do with the ecu switching over to ground IE working... the first few days my pump would cycle then in the next day or so nothing would cycle anymore... i should have a new relay tomorrow or sat, so i should have a def answer for you then. nonetheless, this is a place you can start atleast!

also, since you were under the hood, check fuses under there to make sure you didnt blow anything
 
My cat won't detect that there is an ecu present.

Can I hire your cat, I need somebody to help detect ECUs when they come in?

Check the MPI fuse on the battery positive terminal. Also check the room fuse in the drivers footwell.
If nothing happens when you turn the key on, check the ignition fuse on the battery as well.

Check means pull it and measure continuity with an ohmmeter not look at it.
 
I can't figure this out.

Broke clutch fork last year.

Took me this long to fix it and add my 16G, 1000cc inj, 255 walbro, dsmlink, etc.

Now I finally have everything together, and it won't start. I throw this code in DSMLink when trying to start it.

Sounds like it wants to turn over but it won't. Stumbles every once and awhile, and it backfires rarely, but it does. I know its getting fuel. I changed spark plugs and now I'm thinking wires. But if I'm throwing this code, then maybe its the CAS?

If I unplug and plug it back it it makes a noise...which leads me to believe its not broke, but I could be wrong.

What do I do next?
 
I can't figure this out.

Broke clutch fork last year.

Took me this long to fix it and add my 16G, 1000cc inj, 255 walbro, dsmlink, etc.

Now I finally have everything together, and it won't start. I throw this code in DSMLink when trying to start it.

Sounds like it wants to turn over but it won't. Stumbles every once and awhile, and it backfires rarely, but it does. I know its getting fuel. I changed spark plugs and now I'm thinking wires. But if I'm throwing this code, then maybe its the CAS?

If I unplug and plug it back it it makes a noise...which leads me to believe its not broke, but I could be wrong.

What do I do next?

No do not suspect wires. Easy check is to check the resistance of the plugs. I believe each plug should not exceed 10 ohms. Secondly in order for the car to start there has to be a triggering device and the is you CPT. And since there is a code for that than you must go after that. Good luck
 
No do not suspect wires. Easy check is to check the resistance of the plugs. I believe each plug should not exceed 10 ohms. Secondly in order for the car to start there has to be a triggering device and the is you CPT. And since there is a code for that than you must go after that. Good luck

CPT? You mean CAS? Iphone? LOL.

Well I couldn't get the CAS out of my parts car, so I took off the cover and gutted it, then did the same with the CAS on my car, replaced all the guts with the working guts, and nothing changed.

Could it be the wires maybe? If its not, what the heck could it be? Timing? I'll check spark plugs.
 
Just replaced my cas...nothing

If I set my timing -15 in dsmlink it will start for a few seconds then die.
 
One nice thing about a 1G is you can pull the CAS out and turn it by hand to verify it's basic functionality with nothing more than a voltmeter. There are four wires, one to the MPI power, one to ground and two signals that are pulled up by the ECU to 5v and the CAS pulls them to ground to generate the timing signals.

The first check is that your getting battery voltage to the CAS from the MPI relay and that you have a good ground. The ECU needs to be on and the CAS connected to the harness but off the head. If you don't see 12v then either the wiring is damaged or the MPI relay isn't activated.

Next is to measure the voltage on the two signal line and see if they are showing 5v, if not turn the CAS and see if it goes to 5v. Last is to count the pulses as you turn the CAS, the TDC line should pulse twice per rev and the Crank Angle line four times.

If you don't ever see 5v on one or both then it boils down to the CAS is bad, the ECU or wiring harness is damaged. If unplugging the CAS produces the 5v on the harness pins it's the CAS.
 
Something makes me think you aligned the reluctor plate wrong

...or the Flux Capacitor isn't capaciting. :p

That's what i was thinking. Either misaligned or backwards... but that's if he's using the gutted CAS. If it was changed completely, make sure it's not 180 out and the signal is like Steve said. You can also take the plugs out, leave them connected to the wires, spin the CAS, and you should be able to see them fire and in what order. If you set the car at TDC, align the CAS and turn it, you'll know what it's doing.
 
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