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Fuel Pump runs after trying to crank

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Teknix420

Probationary Member
6
0
Feb 28, 2013
Sandy, Utah
Hey guys, I bought a 91 Talon TSI off of a kid and he said the engine was rebuilt but the car isn't running. After looking through the engine compartment and the interior I just keep finding missing screws and bolts. -.- But anyway, when I try to start it, it makes a spinning noise and I'm not sure if it's trying to crank over but when I listen to the fuel pump, it sounds like it only turns on after the car tries to crank, and only for a second too. I was just wondering if this is normal because I've read that the fuel pump is suppose to turn on when the key is turned to the on position. Thanks.
 
These cars DON'T prime like many others do. The fuel pump turns on when the ECU gets signal from the CAS. So what you're hearing is normal. If the engine isn't spinning and you don't hear the starter going, focus there.
 
Like said above, the pump does not prime the rail. If the engine is not turning over but the starter is spinning, you likely have a starter issue. If the engine turns over, you have an issue with either spark, fuel, compression, or timing.
 
Pull the timing cover off and make sure that all the marks align. When you try to start it, look to make sure that the belt spins.
 
If you turn the key and you don't hear the starter fighting compression (spinning noise), there's two likely problems: The starter isn't engaging for some reason or the engine doesn't have much compression.

I'd start by making sure the engine is actually turning over. Just look at the belts and pulleys while someone cranks the engine. If they don't move, the starter isn't engaging the flywheel. Most likely because the starter bendix failed, but I'd have it tested anyways to rule out flywheel issues like broken teeth or wrong size.

If the engine rotates but still makes the spinning noise then run a compression test. If the engine was literally just rebuilt and doesn't have enough compression to make some noise, then whoever assembled the engine screwed up. Wrong pistons, bent valves, you name it. We've seen a full size grinder used to "resurface" the block before using an MLS head gasket, which would obviously leak like a faucet.
 
Alright thanks for the info guys. I am trying to piece this thing back together and hopefully get it running again. If not, I'll have to rip the engine out and start from scratch because the previous owners messed this car up pretty bad.
 
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