Who is Dr Turbo?

[Highbooost]

** Note: Depending on the dial indicator you use there are 2 very important things that must be addressed. 1. Some are magnetic, if so great because those type hold very well. Mine was a clamp type, these don't hold as well, The indicator must be solidly fixed, so I used vice grips to help fix the dial indicator secure. 2. The indicator must be placed square in front to the object you are reading, if you are trying to get a reading off of a part at an angle the reading will be incorrect. IE: think of this as a bulls eye and a sight glass aligning directly in front of the target not off to the side. Also all readings from this point must be done assuming the belt is being rotated in the running position, and second never go backwards if you miss a mark, just go real slow when you get close and make sure you don't run over.

 

[Highbooost]

Here in my opinion is the trickiest part of the whole procedure. It is getting your indicator on the top of the valve. Do not take the reading on the retainer or the rocker. The retainer is tapered and will not give you an accurate reading, neither will the rocker. There is a very small space between the rocker and the top of the valve that will let you set up camp there. Keep in mind that the lobe of the cam is going to want to knock off your stem of the indicator, there is a very small window that allows you to read nothing before the cam starts to come on versus hitting your indicator's stem.

 

[Highbooost]

After getting everything lined up and attached properly you should zero out the dial indicator. Anytime the cam is spinning and the lobes are not contacting the rockers your reading should be 0. Perfect! For HKS they spec their cams at 1mm of lift which converts to .03937” I just round up to .040” As you start rotating the crank stop at .040” on the gauge. Look at the wheel and see where you are at and record the number, go 180 more degrees then start to watch the indicator again and when it reaches the .040” before the valve is fully seated again record that number. You may have to play with it once to see where that last .040” is to make sure you're reading the right .040” because the number will come up several times as you rotate the cam, but remember you can not go backwards so you will have to start again.

Exhaust cams 1st reading + 2nd reading + 180 = Total duration. 1st reading was 35 BBDC(the first pic sharpie writing is wrong it should have said BBDC instead of BTDC), 2nd reading was 1 ATDC. 35+180+1= 216. If the 1 would have been BTDC you would want to subtract it from the total since you haven't actually gone the full 180 first, so keep that in mind. Spec say it should be 36 and 2, I am obviously real close, 2-3 degree of total duration variance is acceptable. I ended up after playing with the gears and ended up at .5 on the advance side. Also keep in mind that the cam gear adjustment is very sensitive, quarter and half degree movements can change your readings. After making the change run the test again and make sure the duration is correct.

Repeat the procedure for the intake side. 1st reading + 2nd reading = Total duration compare to what they should be opening and closing and adjust as necessary.

The pics are for the exhuast cam. I ended up with .5+ on ex and 1.5+ intake which seem about right, no block decking, one cut on the head and 4 layer mitsu head gasket. This was the first time I have ever done this, so if someone sees that I did something really wrong please let ME know about it and I will adjust the post.

 

[RipperXX]

Keep it coming!

 

[97dark_angel]

word

 

[Calan]

Here in my opinion is the trickiest part of the whole procedure. It is getting your indicator on the top of the valve. Do not take the reading on the retainer or the rocker. The retainer is tapered and will not give you an accurate reading, neither will the rocker.

The problem with this is that you aren't parallel to the valve stem, which will also throw off the readings.

IMHO, as long as the indicator stem is rigid and can't flex, you're better off measuring from the flattest point on the retainer, parallel to the valve travel.

When I degreed my cams, I must have tried 15 different positions for the indicator stem, before I settled on one that gave the most accurate reading (which equals the maximum valve lift; if you aren't parallel with the valve stem, your measured lift will be less than the true lift). Just out of curiosity, did you measure the amount of lift and compare it to the cam card? I would be interested to see how close it was with the indicator at that angle.

Nice work on the car BTW

 

[Highbooost]

Some polished home made strut bars, I love these things, I have been making them forever.

 

[Highbooost]

Fresh rebuilt alternator from a local alt and starter shop not some auto zone POS. The aluminum pulley is standard size so not to hurt output.

 

[Highbooost]

Aluminum water pump pulleys cost about 200 shipped and I was like no way, it save like 2 lbs. So I figured I could hack one up, I did, in fact I even balanced it, this bi*** didn't last 5 min on the car before it broke. You can shave them but I went to far, garbage. My next one I just drilled a bunch of holes in it, sorry I don't have a pic of it. Also I don't have power steering so I needed to use a spacer where the power steering pulley goes behind the water pump pulley, if you don't the belt WILL fail prematurely. Auto RS T hooked me up with a little custom aluminum spacer, thank YOU.

 

[Highbooost]

This thing is rare, how so you ask?. Well I picked up used on the trader and when I got I crossed referenced the part number and nothing came up, so I called them. The guy at Fluidampner was like you have an old aluminum model we don't make those anymore, they are all made of steel now, I was like SCORE!! One other point of interest was there was no slit on the pulley to mark TDC. So I made sure everything was lined up and took a center punch and made a mark and painted it with white out, it has one now.

 

[Highbooost]

Fast Eddy had a pile of timing covers and since most of the cars he deals with are NA the covers were not all melted and warped, I became the new owner of this baby, just like new.

 

[wannarace]

It's got history, love, determination, drama, and it still manages to give you one of those warm and fuzzy feelings. This should be made into a movie. Call it "Faster than the Furious"

I'm really curious about the results on the Intake Manifold. I have one laying around and have been trying to figure out how to make it more efficient with a high HP build.

It won't be long before I'm doing the same thing to mine. Hell, now i can't wait till I get started. Props man

 

[RipperXX]

indeed.





Wonder why they don't use aluminum on the harmonic damper anymore.

 

[Highbooost]

I am running a 91+ ECU harness, but I don't like the 91+ CAM sensors so I used a 90, easy mod. The reason I don't like them is because again the wires are doing a 180 and they become brittle and break, just trying to make the car reliable as possible. Looking at the actual wires coming out of the 90 cam sensor itself the wiring for this conversion should be white and red wires are the same as 91, yellow wire goes to pin 21 on the ECU, and the last black wire to ground. If your 90 sensor is old and faded here is a pic of one so you know what colors they are stock.

 

[Highbooost]

By this time my wife and I are moving so the project had stopped, Thanksgiving..then Christmas, then cold, no more work. My winter project was to clean up the rear suspension it is totally unacceptable. First thing was to remove everything, like so. I hate trying to get to the top of the diff bolts so I cut a hole and made an access panel from with in the car. I did have to remove the inner mounting holes for the 50/50 rear seats, so if you have rear seats that are 50/50 you won't be able to do this, but if you don't have interior or have the full lay down rears then go for it.

 

[Highbooost]

After careful inspection mother nature had taken its toll on the rear hard brake lines, uggg I hate rust. Well now is the time do it with everything out I told myself. I didn't want to do it but did. Bought a bunch of line and fittings are started the project from hell. Making a double flare on your back on the cold ground with the car about 1' off the ground is not my idea of fun, but I figure it is better than busting a brake line open at 150mph. I followed them down from the proportioning valve to right after the front sub frame where they were still good. I didn't want to mess with my fresh paint on the proportioning valve under the hood so I spliced mid way. I carefully removed the stock ones and then mimicked my new line in the same shape making sure to use a zip tie after each bend, I did use a brake hose bender to make the bends, not my hands, they fitted perfectly and didn't leak, wheeew it was a lot of work but successful.

 

[JMGSX]

Great job. Severe dedication and hard work. They only thing that I would have done differently is to not paint the brake lines and prop valve the same color as the engine bay. I can understand not wanting to remove them, although if I went as far as you I would have removed them, but you could have wrapped them so they wouln't get sprayed. But, the important thing is it is your project and you must have decided on spraying them for a reason.

 

[Highbooost]

Time to get all that rear suspension stuff addressed. I have a sand blasting cabinet but I can't get huge things in it so I familiarized myself with a sandblaster guy. Scott took good care of me and started blasting the rear suspension. I went ahead and placed my order for the mustache bar and rear sub frame polyurethane bushings as well. I had already done all the other parts in the last build with polyurethane so I didn't have to do that. After all the stuff was returned I had it professionally painted and reinstalled on the car. All those nasty rusty bolts had to go so I made a list of about 50 different part numbers and met with my local dealer parts guy and ordered all new OEM rear suspension hardware. I was able to get 90% of it, some is hard to get or discontinued though.

 

[Highbooost]

After spending a night with a torch I was able to get the old rubber out. Keep the metal sleeves they WILL need to be reused since the kit doesn't come with any. Lube em up push em in. Mustache bar done.

 

[Highbooost]

Another night with the torch netted me two more metal sleeves from the sub frame as well, again those WILL be reused, so keep them. I added a 1” suspension techniques rear sway bar, pushed in the insets, and done.

 

[Highbooost]

This is the freshly painted sub frame studs and brackets w/ new OEM hardware. It is to be noted that the stopper in the picture actually couldn't be used, I misunderstood the sub frame guy when he said I would need to reuse the hardware, he meant the sleeves not the stoppers.

 

[Highbooost]

I went ahead and replaced the rear wheel bearings at this time. I did a write up on this already, here is the link http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...66-1g-awd-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement.html

 

[Highbooost]

It was time to throw on those fresh trailing arms but not before I made some collars and had those babies welded to rid of that stupid active toe. Black beauty.

 

[Highbooost]

I needed something to hold up those trailing arms so how about a new set of Megan Racing coilovers, always wanted some, not I got some, I can die happy. Only shiity thing about them is there is no provisions front or back for the stock brake line brackets so I had to fab something up.

 

[Highbooost]

Silver painted control arms, new boots, the joints themselves were still nice and tight, polyu to boot, new threaded nuts from the dealer, all set.