Who is Dr Turbo?

[Highbooost]

A long time ago I tried this mod but it didn't work so well, but that is living and learning. I got it correct the second time. Fuel rail setups are stupid why feed from one side and starve the other so I said how about we feed both sides and return out the center. -8an from the tank two a “Y” where -6an split off and head to the rail and return to the AFPR. The round thing is a my sending unit for the Cyberdyne FP gauge, I like the digital VS analog because with FP I don't want to interpret the FP just know the exact number at a quick glance.

 

[Highbooost]

By now I have got the engine out of the basement... my dad and I carried the block up first then the head and I am going to bolt a few things I have prepped on it. The first piece is my totally custom thermostat housing. The engineers could have done a much better job. We all know what the problem with these things are, the wires have to do a 180 to get to the front sensors, they become brittle and break. Not anymore, I moved them to the back both the ECT and gauge sensor, that way the wires are plumbed straight into it VS going around it. I'm still using the heater core so I used a 120 degree bend to get coolant flowing back towards the core. A 45 degree -8 fitting serves coolant to the turbo, and I saved the pimpest for last. I took the stock AC sensor that normally mounts in the bottom of the radiator. This sensor normally closes at 172 I believe, which is a perfect temp for turning on the radiator fans so I ran both fan relays grounding wires to this sensor and when it gets hot enough it closes the relay circuit and turns on both fans.. wa-la. I didn't have to do anything trick to the hole, I just used RTV on the threads and a washer from the oil cooler banjo bolts as an extra precaution and it worked fine. I run a 160 thermostat and installed a brand new 16lb cap.

 

[Trueweltall]

Nice read. Two thumbs up.

 

[Highbooost]

Powder coated hood prop and holder, check.

 

[Highbooost]

A few shots of the freshly painted crossmember held by new OEM bolts.

 

[Highbooost]

Lets finish the intake manifold story, have you ever seen a Ferrari intake, nuff said. Originally I was going to use a pressure switch to operate the wastegate to open the secondaries but instead I just ended up using a straight vacuum line with a one way check valve to keep pressure in the line between shifts. By the time boost builds it is perfect for the secondaries to open between the sweet spot of 4100-4600 rpm. Note: when using wrinkle paint make sure you have everything you don't want painted taped off because that paint dries so slow you will actually have overspray on everything instead of just dust.

 

[Highbooost]

I used up my max limit of pics in the last post here are the rest of the intake pics.

 

[Highbooost]

This is the harness I made for the cam sensor, coolant stuff, tps, etc.

 

[babyjoker]

Very impressive, cant wait to see the final product!

 

[style619s]

dang that intake looks awesome never seen anything like it

 

[fergulus]

I have to compliment you on your dedication to this project. Everyone wishes that he/she had the time and resources to do this extensive type of custom work, and your thread really highlights the time and effort you have put into making your car custom.

I do have a question for you, however. Everyone who's ever worked on their car in decent winds knows that the hood likes to lift and drop the hood latch, letting the hood fall and destroy yer nice paint job. Have you considered purchasing the Tien hood damper below.

TEIN USA | PRODUCTS | HOOD DAMPER

Since those are also a hefty price, you could buy trunk dampers and mounting brackets. Then you would have to find the correct fitting of them, but it would make for a much cleaner look, don't you think?

 

[Highbooost]

Yes they are cool, yes I have cosidered them but I don't want them. I have the hood locks removed on the hinges so the hood can be bent all the way back and rest on the windsheild, when I work under the hood that is how it lays so those hydralic latches would restrict my movement so they are not on the car.

I have to compliment you on your dedication to this project. Everyone wishes that he/she had the time and resources to do this extensive type of custom work, and your thread really highlights the time and effort you have put into making your car custom.

I do have a question for you, however. Everyone who's ever worked on their car in decent winds knows that the hood likes to lift and drop the hood latch, letting the hood fall and destroy yer nice paint job. Have you considered purchasing the Tien hood damper below.

TEIN USA | PRODUCTS | HOOD DAMPER

Since those are also a hefty price, you could buy trunk dampers and mounting brackets. Then you would have to find the correct fitting of them, but it would make for a much cleaner look, don't you think?

 

[Trav83]

I love your attention to detail, This car could become the focus of attention at a few car shows

 

[Highbooost]

Steve at DSM THrottle Bodys bored and replaced the seals in my NA tbody. I still get a bonner looking at that thing.

 

[empie1]

That throttle body is sick.

 

[Highbooost]

NA water pipe wrapped in header wrap.

 

[Highbooost]

Cleaned up the starter, kept that Cincy sticker since that is where I'm from. They still make electronics for mitsu down there. New OEM bolts of course.

 

[Highbooost]

Here is another box of freshly polished items, that was another day well spent.

 

[Highbooost]

90 Oil filter housing used with an extremely ported relief valve, -8 an fittings for the factory oil cooler were used. The stock sending unit was replaced with an Autometer 0-100psi oil gauge. Alumiblast makes things look nice and pretty.

 

[Highbooost]

Picked up a set of HKS 272s they looked a little nasty but my polishing wheel made them new again.

 

[Highbooost]

Polished Fidazna adjustable cam gears, everybody has some of those right??

 

[Highbooost]

What good are adjustable cam gears if we don't set them up. The first thing I had to do was get a extra lifter and have the top tack welded in place with the rocker and cam shaft installed. Make sure that the cam is not exerting any lift when tacking the lifter. We still want tension from the cam on the lifter just not any lift.

 

[Highbooost]

The next step is to go ahead and put the degree wheel on with the crank bolt still loose enough to rotate the degree wheel, keep it hand tight for now. After the wheel is on go ahead and use a piece of metal coat hanger and attach it around any bolt you can find where the pointer will give you an accurate reading.

 

[Highbooost]

Next, it is time to find true TDC. You have to make a stopper. I just ripped the electrode off of the end of a spark plug and hammered in a socket that fit. It was not moving so I inserted it into into the hole and I began my measuring, it doesn't matter where in relation the degree wheel is reading at this point. Take your first reading where the crank can not be rotated any more into the stopper record the number, now spin the motor the other way until it stops and find that number. Take the numbers average them and this is where true TDC lies. Remove the stopper, spin the crank to what ever your averaged numbers is, this TDC. Loosen the crank bolt with your hand, reset the degree wheel to 0 and hit the crank bolt once with the impact to keep it from moving. Example your first reading was 60 the second was 59 60+59= 119/2 = 59.5 is TDC move the crank there and set the wheel to 0 as mine was. I had calculated it earlier so mine was very close your would probably not be.

 

[woooop]

Where did you get the alum. v band from for the TB?